Need some help with my next project

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interesting. if i were going with a benchrest type action and was an adherent of the philosophy that action stiffness was the most important thing, i'd be tempted to not use an ejector or a separate feed port, so i don't have to chase my brass, and just use my finger to pull it out when the extractor leaves it laying in the bottom of the action. but since i think shooting really fast in the same wind condition is more important for small groups, i'd still want a mag fed action. granted, i am not a benchrest shooter so i'm way out of my lane.

they definitely make well regarded actions though. would love to see pics when you get it built
 
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taliv said:
i'd be tempted to not use an ejector or a separate feed port, so i don't have to chase my brass, and just use my finger to pull it out when the extractor leaves it laying in the bottom of the action. but since i think shooting really fast in the same wind condition is more important for small groups, i'd still want a mag fed action.
Click to expand...

F Class will likely be the only competition this rifle will see, and rules require you to single load your ammo. As far as ejection is concerned I agree. Having it eject or pull it out manually, flip a coin.

Left feed would be new for me, but it makes some sense being right handed. The right hand does most of the chores and the left hand isn't really doing much. May as well join the team and do some loading.
 
ahh, cool. sounds like a perfect action for fclass. mid or long range?
yeah... when i was shooting, we had to wait for pit service between shots. with great pit service, we could shoot every 30-40 seconds.
i wonder though, with the new electronic targets, how fast can you shoot in fclass?
 
is that rest approved for f-class? lol

with that configuration though, you have to use both hands right? feed with your left and run the bolt and operate the tail of your rest with your right? seems like you'd want to keep your support hand in place, and do those two things with your other hand

i personally like to also have the parallax knob on the left, with the bolt, as i like to dial it forward and back between shots to look at midrange mirage. though for most right hand shooters, i think they'd want the parallax on the right instead of the left, if they hold wind.
 
is that a built in weaver rail instead of a picatinny?
 
The guy that bought the rifle from sent those pic. He's also works for the gunsmith that will be doing the re-barrel. That 30 BR seems to work pretty good on groundhogs.

I'm going with lower rings and will likely have the stock cerakoted in something different.
 
taliv said:
i personally like to also have the parallax knob on the left, with the bolt, as i like to dial it forward and back between shots to look at midrange mirage. though for most right hand shooters, i think they'd want the parallax on the right instead of the left, if they hold wind.
Click to expand...

One of the unique features of the Kahles scopes is the paralax controls are under the elevation turret
 
i do like the kahles parallax. their glass is decent too. would make a good f-class scope
 
Nature Boy said:
I have an FN SPR that I put 6,000 rounds through and I’m going to have it re-barreled and put it in a new stock or chassis of some kind

But first I need to decide on a caliber

It’s purpose will be for medium to long range target shooting and a trip to the field occasionally for deer hunting. I’ll reload the rounds that I shoot through it.

It’s got to fit my short action, .308 bolt face and I’d like to stick with the stock bottom metal and FN .308 mag....if I can

To narrow it down, here’s what I’m researching.

Number one priority- Accuracy

6.5mm

1. 6.5x47L
2. .260
3. 6.5-284
4. 6.5CM

7mm

1. .284
2. 7mm WSM
3. 7mm SAUM

I’m talking to the gunsmith on Monday and making the decision then.

Right now I’m leaning toward either the 6.5x47L or the .284

What do you all think?
Click to expand...
. 6.5x47L See "What The Pros Use" on PRS site. http://precisionrifleblog.com/2017/02/16/long-range-calibers-cartridges-what-the-pros-use/ But I shoot 6br and really like it- low recoil, easy to load for...but it wasn't in your list. Looked at it myself until deciding on 6BRX (low tooling cost using same dies as my 6br).
 
243winxb said:
Dont get caught up in the 6.5 fad. Rebarrel in 308 Win.

Compare the 6.5 cartridges using 140 gr bullets with a 308 win using a 130 gr bullet.,
The 308 has a lot more velocity (300fps)at the muzzle. But the 6.5 does have less drag for long range. Need to study bullets and ballistics.

Hodgdon data.
Click to expand...

Seconded-study ballistics
 
I called an audible on my project (about the 5th one so far)

Having 2 barrels made, first one will be chambered for 6BRA. Will see how that shoots and decide what to do on the second.

The 6BRA will require fire forming, but it’s not the elaborate “make a false shoulder” process like the Dasher.
 
IF you're getting brass with your rifle, why not do a 6br? Just squeeze the neck back down to where it started.
I'm getting away from the 6.5's and 6's and getting more into the "sub-caliber" type stuff, personally. I am in the midst of a trade for some 6BR Lapua brass to make a 22BR after I finish building my current projects. Running a 22 into the wind is a lot of fun.
Good looking rifle and good luck with your project(s).
 
Here’s what I decided to have done to the stock

C7569F60-FFAC-43D1-B29A-3931D07DF0E6.jpg

One of the barrels will be a Lederer heavy varmint contour 1:7.5 twist. The other will be a bartlein MTU contour 1:7.5 twist. Both finished at 28”
 
Gahhhh! Another project im anxious to see finished...i want to see this beast already....and its not even mine lol.
 
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