MaxxTech Brass

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I found a piece of brass with a MaxxTech headstamp that is unusual. Inside the case, it is beefed up and looks to have a shelf where the bullet base would sit. Are these cases reloadable? If so, how does one reload them since case capacity is reduced as a result of the lower half of the brass being thickened drastically?
 
yes they can be reloaded. I have noticed no difference but I don't load max charges. Several brands have the "step". It's due to different case construction.

EDIT: i would feel ok loading the "ammoload" version (see below) but NOT the MAXXTECH version.
 
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While they can be reloaded, I don't. There are a few issues with this type of brass. Often the step is located to establish the cartridge's OAL by the bullet bottoming out on that step. If you are using a physically longer projectile it may restrict your seating depth. But the biggest issue I have is the one you've surmised - the working volume of the cartridge is decreased to an unknown degree and that does indeed affect load data. Had I a library of load data using this type of case I might well load them, but without that reference I'd just as soon bin them before putting a second's thought into the affect on pressure and velocity. 9mm brass is everywhere.
 
Reloading MaxxTech or Amerc brass can be done, the process is a little more involved than most others, owing to the stepped casing and often off center flash holes.

Step 1. Using a sturdy pair of pliers, or bench vise,
crush the maxxtech or amerc brass as
flat as possible.
Step 2. Bring your flattened brass to your local
metal recycling facility
Step 3. Purchase new brass, or obtain quality once
fired brass
Step 4. Reload casings in usual manner

I've had excellent results using the above formula:D
 
Absolutely hilarious, @bersaguy! :rofl:

I use a hammer for step one. I've broken a depriming pin on a Fourty-five Auto amerc brass. A vise couldn't get it flat enough to assuage my wrath!:fire:
(At the loss of a free evening, not the loss of the pin. I now have many...)
 
I feel you, @Demi-human I bent the pin on a rcbs 45 die trying to deprime amerc brass, and had a maxxtech split on the 1st reloading with mid range loads. Never thought about using a hammer.....I have a nice 2pounder that would get the job done nicely :evil:
 
download.jpeg
Though, for serious, to the OP's question, the above photo shows how much the case volume is reduced with this case design. Much better to melt them down to be turned into better cases
 
I've only seen a few/couple stepped ID cases but on the forums I frequent, no one reloads them...
 
View attachment 787338
Though, for serious, to the OP's question, the above photo shows how much the case volume is reduced with this case design. Much better to melt them down to be turned into better cases
Wow. That's an eye-opener! Are ALL the cases with the little inner lip that type? Or is that the extreme case (pun intended)? If they are all like that I'm going to have to start sorting them out. And I REALLY don't want to.
 
I'm not 100% sure if all brands of brass that have that step in them are that severe, but I'd imagine they're all pretty similar
 
Some just have a cannelure pressed into the side of the case to thwart bullet setback. I would assume these would be fine to reload, but I haven't run across any since I began reloading Fourty-five Auto.
 
The Maxxtech brass has the step much closer to the case mouth than the other types of brass with the internal step. I know that with the Ammoload headstamped brass, the step is so deep that it would never prevent bullet setback, while the Maxxtech might.

Besides the problems with different internal volume, I would strongly advise not to use any of the stepped brass in a blow-back type gun. I know one person who had a case separate in the chamber, and have read reports of it online as well. The problem with the step is that it concentrates stress on the inside corner of the step, and in a blow-back design, the case is being pushed out of the chamber before the pressure has dropped, the forward part of the case expands and grabs the chamber wall and tends to pull the case apart.

Another problem with those cases comes when resizing. If using a carbide resizing die, the die may try to size the bottom portion of the case smaller than the original size allows.

Me personally, I take any of the stepped cases and chuck them in a scrap bag for the recycler. 9mm brass is just too plentiful, I always come back from the range with more 9mm brass than I shot. I can afford to be picky.
 
There may be "good" reasons for these radically stepped ID cases (bullet set back, lower powder charges, firearms that are "hard" on brass, etc.) but for a new reloader, just inspect all the cases before they are reloaded, a necessary step for any reloads/brass and use common, tried and true components (I have many years of reloading experience and I won't try and extrapolate a load with stepped cases). Much safer and easier that way
 
I picked up some range fodder, 9mm Pobjeda headstamp, that was steel (appeared to be zinc coated, thought it was nickel at first), and had the internal step.
 
I'm not 100% sure if all brands of brass that have that step in them are that severe, but I'd imagine they're all pretty similar
I'm going to have to cut some in half and check. I assumed (apparently wrongly) theat it was just a "cup" or extra case thickness worth of brass. It they are all that extreme I'm going to have to frickin sort 9mm.
 
Not my idea, but here's how I sort 9mm brass. I use a set of HF tweezers to pull any unwanted brass out of the mix. I can do several hundred cases in a very short time.
 
Not my idea, but here's how I sort 9mm brass. I use a set of HF tweezers to pull any unwanted brass out of the mix. I can do several hundred cases in a very short time.
I use that method as well. Great for sorting out 380, 9mak, pulling out stepped cases or NATO crimped cases.
 
Thanks for that! The ammoload pictured is more what I have seen. .015 thicker per side? with a step at .151 from the base. That's not going to affect anything as far as I'm concerned. The MAXXTECH one, now that's a problem. I'm definitely going to start sorting.
 
I guess I'm destined for disaster,,,

During wet cleaning / drying, and again just before the brass enters my press I perform a quick 'general viewing' of the cases, both single layer deep during cleaning/drying and in my tub immediately before the press...

I chunk .380 / .40, Some may sneak by,,, but my press will let me know,,, (Chunk 'em)

I rarely ~see~ any crimped case's,,,, but my press will let me know,,, (Chunk 'em)

I chunk the stepper's that I see,,,,, Some may sneak buy,,, I never load hot and apparently I might just be lucky,,,

With that being said, I reload for 'recreational purposes', and I'm stubborn enough to continue in my old evil ways,,,

As always, YMMV, and do what's right by you!
 
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I love hunting for my 9mak brass in with all the .380 and 9mm just loads of fun:)
Once you are used to looking for it .380s are easy to spot!
 
Inspecting brass is an integral part of reloading. I give my brass a quick look-see before I dump them in my tumbler and when I take them out I do a better inspection. Inspection is just a part of reloading that if not done can lead to some drastic problems with your equipment, presses and guns. I often reserve inspecting/sorting for times when I'm bored and have no other reloading stuff to do (I even sorted/inspected a gallon jar of 9mm brass last week, just to get out to the shop and have something "reloading" to do). Once sorted/inspected they go into a "ready to load" container...
 
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