Rattle can removal

Status
Not open for further replies.

WestKentucky

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Messages
13,112
Location
Western Kentucky
I rattle-canned an AR a while back and the results were less than stellar since I was rushed and it was really too cold to paint anyway. What is the best way to remove the paint from the metal parts without damaging the surfaces underneath? I will likely be repainting it because many of the parts were scratched to begin with, I just want a cleaner looking paint job.


Im starting this in “general” because it’s so common and I don’t consider it “gunsmithing”. Mods, feel free to move it if you disagree.
 
Consider having it Duracoated or Cerakoted. Either one requires a grit blast so that solves the rattle can problem. Either of the coatings will outlast rattle can paint by a lot.
 
You need a gentle paint remover that will not damage any plastic parts on the gun. I use a product called ELO (Easy-Lift-Off). Repeated applications of this, if necessary, are better than a single application of a harsher chemical.
 
You need a gentle paint remover that will not damage any plastic parts on the gun. I use a product called ELO (Easy-Lift-Off). Repeated applications of this, if necessary, are better than a single application of a harsher chemical.
No worries about plastic. I will pull that off. It didn’t get painted to begin with. I should have made that clear when I started the thread.
 
If you're repainting, why not strip it completely? It will make a better finish when you are done.
 
0412171318.jpg
Just paint over it. Consider it primed.
Agreed. If you've primed it properly from the get go, you can repaint without issue. The rifle above has been painted several times. No chipping. Just used Rustoleum.

If you have chipping issues then strip it with regular old thinner and start fresh and re prime. Don't worry about paint thinner causing damage. I've done it more than once with no negative effects.
 
100% acetone soaked scotch brite pad. Disassemble. Scrub the paint off with with a scotch brite pad. Soft side. Hit it with water. After drying, re hit it with a scotch brite pad. Rough side. Scuff and prime. Paint and dry. Shoot and smile.
 
Just go to Walmart and pick up a can of Klean Strip, paint stripper. Just spray it on and it will remove the paint in 15 minuets.
Use a plastic scrub brush when you clean it of.
View attachment 795873

That's what I do once every few years to my painted guns, they usually develop nicks, dings, dents, and sometimes rust under the paint over time.
Plus it lets me change colors quickly if I decide I'm tired with a finish....
 
Hoppes and/or Gun Scrubber along with some fine steel wool always worked for me fro getting old paint off.

What kind of paint did you use? I usually just use Testors and/or Krylon (standard, not the plastic bond), and it comes off clean with a little work. If you used something more permanent, you might be in for a lot of work, if not a bead blast.

Im also with those who suggested just painting over what you already did. Its a good primer/base. You could always lightly sand the runs or bad spots if need be.
 
Agree with others above, don't overdo the stripping.

Do minimal stripping, and if it really starts peeling off then go more aggressive.

Then clean it. Then degrease the HELL out of it (denatured alcohol is my favorite). And stick with that. Do not even touch the surface after you have degreased it (have temporary handles/hooks, like screw hooks mounted in the pistol grip slots, etc. and touch it only there).

I would probably, btw, consider disassembling entirely. Fire control, dust cover, everything off.

Then paint it. All the normal stuff. Good paint, thin coats, time to dry between coats, rotate regular, avoid high humidity or extreme cold, etc.

Then, and this is critical:

Leave it the !@#$ alone.

Cure times are very long. Leave it to cure. 3 days is the earliest I would touch it. 10 - 14 days is better. If you can be without your carbine for 2 weeks, do it. Make it dry in a box in a room you don't go into much so you aren't even inclined to look at it, much less go touch it.

Then, good paint will last forever. From some experience with a number of coatings, I strongly feel that prep is more important than the paint. I've seen Cerakote flake off, and wear off, more than once. And have a number of painted items that don't even chip when brass ejects into them a few thousand times, or you drop them on rocks (not that I advise this).

Prep, prep, prep.



OPTION:
Go one level crazier on prep and: sandblast. Down to the metal, everywhere. Then clean, degrease, and primer it, Zinc Chromate or something else serious. Then the painting steps.

Especially for aluminum, some do not advise this as the anodizing gives the metal strength, but it's an option.
 
That's what I do once every few years to my painted guns, they usually develop nicks, dings, dents, and sometimes rust under the paint over time.
Plus it lets me change colors quickly if I decide I'm tired with a finish....
If there is rust under the paint, it was most likely there prior to being painted. Ive never found runt under anything Ive painted, when it was removed later. Even with long-term exposure to the elements.

A couple of years ago, I stripped a shotgun Id painted about 25 years before, and the bluing underneath was pristine. Even the wood was in great shape and showed little to no wear. Paint is a great finish protector.

As far as the "paint over" thing... this....

enhance.jpg

was painted over to this........

enhance.jpg

and is now this.....

enhance.jpg

And the paint was never stripped between paint jobs.
 
Bead blast the parts and have them parkerized? I know that damages the original finish but think how good it will look with a nice and new parkerized finish.
 
If there is rust under the paint, it was most likely there prior to being painted. Ive never found runt under anything Ive painted, when it was removed later. Even with long-term exposure to the elements.
The rust usually grows from small scratches thru the paint, or if I didn't paint it soon enough after stripping.

When I sandblast I literally have to prime or paint parts within a few hours or there will be a light film of rust. If I'm going to wait for a while before finishing a piece I usually soak it in rust preventative, sometimes it still rusts.
Joys of living in Hawaii.
I've watched vehicles melt over a few years of no use.
 
Just go to Walmart and pick up a can of Klean Strip, paint stripper. Just spray it on and it will remove the paint in 15 minuets.
Use a plastic scrub brush when you clean it of.
View attachment 795873

This. By far the easiest way to perform a complete strip of rattle can paint (paint bubbles up and just comes right off with wiping or brushing) without harming steel or aluminum.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top