Slamfire is correct, I believer it is a type 99 Arisaka. Key is two receiver gas holes indicates a type 38 generally, one gas hole in the receiver is a type 99. The Kanji script on the receiver ring also states the type.
You might find this website interesting or not if you want to decipher the markings
http://www.castle-thunder.com/index.htm This datasheet on Type 99 provides a way to decipher the markings and where they are to determine when and where it was made.
http://www.castle-thunder.com/datasheets/99ds2010e.pdf
From your pictures, it is rusty but doesn't appear badly pitted (this is not to say that it is safe to fire without gunsmith ok). The stock appears to be in relatively good condition and the parts missing appear to be minor.
Two options that might make sense to you--one is to sell it to a collector who often prefer it to be left alone. This works best if it is some odd variant--certain arsenal and series makes are pretty rare and someone wanting to complete a collection might want to purchase it. Condition and rarity will determine the price. In this case, it is best to leave it as is and let the buyer deal with the hard work of restoration.
As is and absent any special rarity, my guess what it might bring is about $150-250 which is in the training rifle range. It is also equivalent roughly to the value of the individual parts if sold. If cartouches and most markings are still present, etc. maybe a bit more as the stock and handguard appear in good condition and not buggered up.
Second option, restore it. If you don't want to do so, then ignore the rest of the post.
Demount the rifle receiver, take down the bolt, etc. Verify and acquire missing parts--gpc has some and some can be acquired through ebay/gunbroker. There are several ways to remove rust which in some cases may actually leave bluing present. Remove all dirt via a eco friendly degreaser/detergent spray and wipe down clean and dry. Then, apply a light machine oil (I prefer something like KROIL but any penetrating oil can work) then use bronze wool, steel wool 0000, or an Big Frontier 45 rust remover scrubber to scrub LIGHTLY to dislodge the rust. (I have also used Blue Wonder gun cleaner--it is a gel and sits on the surface and does help eliminate rust but not any residual bluing--you alternate it with the penetrating oil).
At this stage, do not try to get into any deep rust pits--simply remove the surface rust. You get those later with picks and specific attention to each pit. Use different clean parts of the steel or bronze wool or rinse your scrubbing pad periodically in mineral spirits to get rid of rust particles. These rust particles removed are abrasive and can scratch surfaces/bluing that remain. Go slow. Do the same process with barrel bands etc. Clean and de rust all of the parts thoroughly inside and out. You are breaking the oxidized metal surface by removing the rust and improper storage and partial cleaning can lead to new rusting of the surfaces. Use oil plentifully.
Regarding cleaning crevices, etc, bamboo skewers for k-bobs work well, plastic picks also can work but are fragile, metal picks are useful in some circumstances where wood or plastic won't but they can scratch so use with care. I also use pipe cleaners, small rags, etc. Old dirty surfaces often require multiple rounds of cleaning.
Electrolysis can be used to clean up rusty parts but be very careful and avoid doing it with any chromed product. Haven't tried ultrasonic cleaners but often the result of either process is any residual bluing is gone. Naval Jelly, Evaporust, etc, are generally acids and do attack and remove rust along with etching the surface. Not recommended, nor is media blasting etc. Toothbrushes, nylon and bronze also are very useful to break up rust and crud.
Oil and scrub small sections, clean out or get new cleaning scrubber, clean and dry. On screws, it is very possible that they are stuck fast with rust along with the sight ladder etc. DO NOT force anything. Apply penetrating oil and let it sit, try using normal GUNSMITHING screw bits that fit the screw head (these will be hollow ground bits) and normal pressure--no gorilla grip here, and try to turn it. If you have a brass punch, you can lightly tap with a light hammer on and around the screw head to help break the rust bond holding the screw in place. Go slow as it may take repeated cycles of tapping, penetrating oil, and trying the screw before it loosens. Heat and cold can be used as a next step but generally not necessary as beyond the normal. Usually repeated penetrating oil application (don;t get this one the wood if you can help it and remove it promptly if you do--non-natural distilled oil softens and weakens wood.
Clean the stock and handguard with Murphy's wood soap first using cloth rags. DO NOT SAND THE STOCK. Arisakas were generally finished with Japanese lacquer that comes from a variety of poison sumac. Sanding it will put those particles in the air and breathing them is not good. If you have a severe reaction to poison ivy/oak/sumac, then make sure to use gloves when cleaning the stock. The compound that causes problems should decline with age but not something you can take for certain. Don't use any solvents to remove the finish either, the Japanese having a shortage of good wood, glued the buttstock from two pieces. Solvents can weaken the glue bond. Best to clean it and leave it alone.
Make it a project and it can actually look quite nice but depending on the condition, it may takes several weeks of working on it bit by bit. Getting in a hurry usually botches stuff.
Now, whether you can fire it--many of the Arisaka 99's had chromed bores until mid war. Often the outside looks like garbage but the barrels are quite nice. Not close enough look to tell you if that is so. Second, many, including the U.S. Army, tried to shoehorn a .30-06 by crudely rechambering into the Arisaka. I would not try to shoot these. IF the U.S. Army did the conversion for the Korean War, it is actually collectible as is and leave it alone.
Outside of special ordering one made by Manson, etc., there are no headspace gages for the Arisaka. Reamers 4 Rent might conceivably have some for rent. But, the only safe way is take a chamber cast to determine what, if anything, someone has done with it before you got it. Then, depending on the bolt condition, the receiver condition, the bore and chamber condition, IT MIGHT be safe to fire with normal ammunition. You can buy it at Grafs and Sons or a few other places have it here and there. Brass, bullets, and dies are available to shoot it.
