Lee Pro Auto Disk smallest hole size available...is it 0.30?
- Thread starter nevadabob
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Livin_Cincy
Member
"The Titan Micro Charge is a PLA plastic "3D Printed" product that accurately measures small charges below the range of the standard Auto Disk Powder Measure. Six cavities with volumes of .12cc, .15cc, .18cc, .21cc, .24cc and .27cc are available on this disk. This is an ideal kit for small caliber cases and light target loads. Can be used on the Auto-Disk or Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measures."
https://www.titanreloading.com/titan-reloading-products/titan-micro-charge
https://www.titanreloading.com/titan-reloading-products/titan-micro-charge
Dudedog
Contributing Member
BDS has a picture of the mod here someplace.
Drill a hole the right size in the side of a disk into the cavity you want to use. If you are not using the .30 cc hole for anything else use it, if not maybe the .32 hole.
The thread a machine screw into the disk. Disk is plastic so the screw will make it's own threads, no need to tap the hole. (I can't remember if I used a 8/32 or 10/32 screw. Screw head needs to be small enough to clear)
Don't know if it makes any difference but I sort of rounded off the end of the screw with a file. (Dremel/course sandpaper would work too)
Inexpensive solution.
Otherwise the Lee Auto Drum is not much more than the MicroDisk from Titan.
It can be adjusted for whatever charge you want. (within reason)
Drill a hole the right size in the side of a disk into the cavity you want to use. If you are not using the .30 cc hole for anything else use it, if not maybe the .32 hole.
The thread a machine screw into the disk. Disk is plastic so the screw will make it's own threads, no need to tap the hole. (I can't remember if I used a 8/32 or 10/32 screw. Screw head needs to be small enough to clear)
Don't know if it makes any difference but I sort of rounded off the end of the screw with a file. (Dremel/course sandpaper would work too)
Inexpensive solution.
Otherwise the Lee Auto Drum is not much more than the MicroDisk from Titan.
It can be adjusted for whatever charge you want. (within reason)
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RealGun
Member
This thread has pics of the mod.
https://rugerforum.net/reloading/97848-lee-adjustable-charge-bar.html
The one I did uses a Phillips head bolt. I stopped using it when I got a mini adjustable charge bar, but I don't know if those are still available (not from Lee).
https://rugerforum.net/reloading/97848-lee-adjustable-charge-bar.html
The one I did uses a Phillips head bolt. I stopped using it when I got a mini adjustable charge bar, but I don't know if those are still available (not from Lee).
LiveLife
Member
Right here - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/
It's $1 mod that will change Pro Auto Disk to micro adjust powder measure capable of smaller than .1 gr adjustments.
With this mod using .30 disk hole, I was able to accurately meter Titegroup down to 2.5 gr - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/#post-9488613
FYI, with the mod W231/HP-38 metered down to 2.0 gr and Bullseye down to 1.5 gr - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/#post-9488648
kmw1954
Member
I have a disk I am going to made this mod on to all 6 cavities and then use set screws. With all of the powders I use in pistols there has been about a .3gr difference between holes. With some I can get 3 different drops within the range of the powder, start, middle and near max while on others I can only achieve 2 different weight drops before being below start or over max.
I received an upgrade kit last Christmas for my Auto Disk because I kept cracking out the screw holes in the plastic hopper, it came with the Adjustable Disk and so far it too has worked pretty well with fine pistol powders.
I received an upgrade kit last Christmas for my Auto Disk because I kept cracking out the screw holes in the plastic hopper, it came with the Adjustable Disk and so far it too has worked pretty well with fine pistol powders.
Whiterook808
Member
The micro adjustable charge bar mentioned above can be found for less than ten bucks.
LiveLife
Member
Adjustable charge bar cannot drop very small charges consistently.
OP needs to drop Titegroup at 3.1 gr.
OP needs to drop Titegroup at 3.1 gr.
RealGun
Member
I use the enhanced metering disk to get 3.5 gr of AA#5 for 32 H&R Mag 100gr.
https://customcastusa.com/collections/reloading-disks-compatiable-with-lee
https://customcastusa.com/collections/reloading-disks-compatiable-with-lee
kmw1954
Member
Whiterook808
Member
LiveLife
Member
Adjustable Charge Bar is good for dropping large powder charges.
For dropping small powder charges more consistently, many modify the charge bar to move the small oval/football shaped opening over the powder drop tube by adding epoxy/bondo - https://www.google.com/search?q=lee...jIzeAhUR0FMKHcoYDmYQ_AUIDygC&biw=1366&bih=623
I considered modifying my adjustable charge bar but because many posted their results were dependent on the quality of epoxy/bondo work and small powder charge drops were not consistent enough for 380Auto, I worked on modifying Auto Disk instead.
For the 380Auto 100 gr RNFP load development thread, I was able to meter W231/HP-38 with $1 modified Auto Disk down from 3.0 gr to 2.6 gr consistently and got following groups at 7 yards with TCP 738 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/380auto-x-treme-100-gr-rnfp-range-test.748320/
In the "Working DIY Micro Auto Disk" thread, I initially tried rounding the brass screw tip to better meter powders that tended to bridge like Titegroup (due to crinkly surface texture) and ended up metering consistently down to 2.6 gr - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/page-2#post-9495037
The rounded tip did improve metering but Walkalong challenged me to make the tip "super slick" which resulted in reshaped tip that was highly polished - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/page-2#post-9495726
The polished cone shaped tip did improve metering of powders but I found unmodified brass screw worked well enough for most 380/32/25 Auto powder charges. I mean, how many powder measures do you know that could meter Bullseye down to 1.5 gr and W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr consistently?
(And BTW, Pro Auto Disk will meter Sport Pistol with less than .05 gr variance when C-H 502 micrometer powder measure will meter Sport Pistol with .08 gr variance).
If one wants more precise metering, reshaping and polishing of brass screw tip is certainly an easy option (I used $7 diamond files from Harbor Freight to reshape and sandpaper to polish the tip while I chucked the longer brass screws in a cordless drill).
For dropping small powder charges more consistently, many modify the charge bar to move the small oval/football shaped opening over the powder drop tube by adding epoxy/bondo - https://www.google.com/search?q=lee...jIzeAhUR0FMKHcoYDmYQ_AUIDygC&biw=1366&bih=623
I considered modifying my adjustable charge bar but because many posted their results were dependent on the quality of epoxy/bondo work and small powder charge drops were not consistent enough for 380Auto, I worked on modifying Auto Disk instead.
For the 380Auto 100 gr RNFP load development thread, I was able to meter W231/HP-38 with $1 modified Auto Disk down from 3.0 gr to 2.6 gr consistently and got following groups at 7 yards with TCP 738 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/380auto-x-treme-100-gr-rnfp-range-test.748320/
In the "Working DIY Micro Auto Disk" thread, I initially tried rounding the brass screw tip to better meter powders that tended to bridge like Titegroup (due to crinkly surface texture) and ended up metering consistently down to 2.6 gr - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/page-2#post-9495037
The rounded tip did improve metering but Walkalong challenged me to make the tip "super slick" which resulted in reshaped tip that was highly polished - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/page-2#post-9495726
The polished cone shaped tip did improve metering of powders but I found unmodified brass screw worked well enough for most 380/32/25 Auto powder charges. I mean, how many powder measures do you know that could meter Bullseye down to 1.5 gr and W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr consistently?
(And BTW, Pro Auto Disk will meter Sport Pistol with less than .05 gr variance when C-H 502 micrometer powder measure will meter Sport Pistol with .08 gr variance).If one wants more precise metering, reshaping and polishing of brass screw tip is certainly an easy option (I used $7 diamond files from Harbor Freight to reshape and sandpaper to polish the tip while I chucked the longer brass screws in a cordless drill).
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LiveLife
Member
Before you jump and start reshaping the tip, do some weighing first with unmodified/rounded tip for consistency.
What I found with cone shaped tip is since I had to screw in deeper to decrease the volume of .30 hole, I ended up creating 2 points where powder could bridge on either side of the base of cone.
Instead, I would recommend the rounded tip polished as this shape was more resistant to bridging of powder.
BUT, believe it or not, using unmodified brass screw really did meter Bullseye/W231/HP-38 (and likely Sport Pistol and BE-86) well enough that for most 380Auto loads, modification of tip was not necessary. If you are loading 25/32 ACP with smaller powder charges, you may need to modify the tip and polish for more consistent powder drops.
snakeye
Member
BDS is right the Lee Powder charge bar does not like Titegroup with charges that low....mine bridges and clogs up every time I try it...I have to use the disk instead...its the design of the hole in the charge bar, with it being a small narrow oblong hole with that small charge causing it to bridge across the narrow gap.....luckily I have a hole in the disk that matches my load perfectly and it flows through the disk's round hole great.
1KPerDay
Member
FYI Lee sells a micro disc for a few bucks with teensy holes if you want to go that route
So far so good. I have a few spare auto disks and drilled a hole in the .30 hole. Found a small non-brass screw and inserted it. Backed it out and tapered/filed the end. Put it back in and dialed it in to 3.1 gr with Titegroup. Did 6 or 7 tests and it's consistent @ 3.1. When I took the hopper off I found no bridging. Other than it being non-brass, I think I'm good to go.
1KPerDay...I scoured their website earlier today and came up with zilch. I could've called them but it was early. That's why I posted my question. This place is like a 7-11!
1KPerDay...I scoured their website earlier today and came up with zilch. I could've called them but it was early. That's why I posted my question. This place is like a 7-11!
I completely forgot about that! I did the screw mod while waiting for the micro charge bar but ended up with the auto drum!
Edit: the charge bar was still a. Pita to use and I modified that with some JB weld stuff then got the auto drum!
LiveLife
Member
Not any more.
The micro disk was discontinued a few years back - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...isk-powder-measure-micro-disk-conversion-unit
That's why we went the DIY micro Auto Disk route.
1KPerDay
Member
Oops!
I used a piece of 22 long rifle brass. I used 400 grit sandpaper on the outside until it slipped the cavity. I think it is the .32 cavity . Anyway I cut it off with a Fresnel so the brass was flush at top and bottom with the disc so basically it's a liner for the cavity. Throws 3.2gr of Titegroup
LiveLife
Member
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