A factory load to a reload

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I have a factory Nosler ammo bent in at the neck on case where the bullet goes into. If I took the primer/powder and bullet out of that and load this into a Remington case would that cause a problem?
 
Thank you for your input, I save the components minus the shell, that was beyond saving and reload into a different shell.
 
I would straighten it out, resize without the deprimer pin, then re-assemble. This way you will have the same case volume.

I have had this happen on occasion where I had a bad magazine that was not kicking the base up. In turn the bolt would scrape the brass and try to feed it bending it badly. I always salvaged these rounds, using the for foulers.

To straighten the bent bullet there are several ways to do it. If you have a drill chuck see it will fit in deep enough to grip the neck. If so straighten it out enough to fit your sizing die. You can also drill a hole in some wood and insert the bullet all the way to the shoulder, then straighten. Disaemble and size and put back together.
 
Unless you know the actual capacity of both cases, you could be creating an overload...should the Remington case be markedly smaller (grains of water capacity). The Nosler is probably at or near max. Pull the slug, toss the powder.
 
A couple thoughts; first I agree with the fellers above, if it chambers, shoot it. Also if it's just one cartridge, I'd suggest you put it in a "To Deal With Later" box and when you have more experience reloading and understand more about pressures, case capacity, etc., fix it then.

A caution about using factory ammo's powder. The factory powder is not the same powder available to us and some can be blended, at the factory, to achieve specific performance parameters. If you take the powder out of one case, and dump it in another case, that should be OK. But if you change the charge you're in uncharted territory...
 
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A caution about using factory ammo's powder. The factory powder is not the same powder available to us and some can be blended, at the factory, to achieve specific performance parameters. If you take the powder out of one case, and dump it in another case, that should be OK. But if you change the charge you're in uncharted territory...

I agree. I pulled down some 7.62X54R rounds that were from eastern Europe, (don't recall now which country) mainly for the bullets. As I prepared to pull them down curiosity got the best of me. So I waited til I had time and weighed each charge of powder. After I got them disassembled, I loaded 5 new brass cases using that powder. I figured the new steel cases had a little more strength than brass so I reduced the charge weight by 5 grains. I then loaded the cases and took them to the range with one of my Mosin-Nagants. I thought a 5 grain reduction would make them pretty tame, and even though they didn't hurt the old shoulder, I didn't load any more of that powder. My advice is even with American name brand factory ammo I wouldn't speculate I would toss the powder.
BTW, I took the rest of the powder and had a little fireworks show on the concrete behind my house. No wonder it was so powerful it was really slow burning. That's one I won't try again, only powders I know. :uhoh:
 
Shoot it just like it is. The brass will be dent-free afterwards. Those who have used a bit too much case lube know exactly what I mean.
 
BTW, I took the rest of the powder and had a little fireworks show on the concrete behind my house. No wonder it was so powerful it was really slow burning. That's one I won't try again, only powders I know. :uhoh:
You can't tell how fast or slow powders are by burning them outside a case. The words fast and slow are relative and the differences can be as small as mili-seconds.

Slower powders don't always mean powdeful, it's just how you load them which changes the felt recoil.
 
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