UPDATE: Help me out on this (older) Kimber model.

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Mn Fats

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I went to the pawn shop to browse the gun section and came across a Kimber Classic Custom Target, Series 1.

Condition was good. Small stratch here and there. The "shake test" was completely silent. Seemed like a solid piece. He had it listed at $749.99 and for ****s and giggles I said "give ya $550". He sighed and said "$600 out the door".

I know nothing of Kimbers. All I know is the older the better? Is this a good one? Would anyone here jump on that deal or is it just ok.
 
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No clue... get out there and shoot it. then tell us..
See before that, I have to buy it. And won't if there's negative input on the classic custom target. I'm clueless on Kimbers, I've heard some years were good, some bad.

If I purchase it, I will shoot it and give a range report for sure.
 
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Sorry assumed you bought it, as there was only 50 bucks difference. Look around on the internet and you will find negative input on every gun ever made.
My fault. He said $600 and I asked him if he could hold it for me for until Saturday. Figured I should be more informed on a potential buy. Very true on the negative input on every gun. I know Kimber gets it a lot with thier quality control. But pure praise on their early days.

Simplify: Is this gun thier early "best" days? Is $600 fair? Experience with this model?
 
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If you are unsure whether it is a pre-Series II, or a Series II, lock the slide back, turn the gun over, and look at the underside of the slide. If there is a plunger present, it is a Series II with a Swartz type firing pin safety. If there is no plunger, it is a pre-Series II with no firing pin safety.
 
If you are unsure whether it is a pre-Series II, or a Series II, lock the slide back, turn the gun over, and look at the underside of the slide. If there is a plunger present, it is a Series II with a Swartz type firing pin safety. If there is no plunger, it is a pre-Series II with no firing pin safety.
It's pre series II.
 
I'm clueless on Kimbers, I've heard some years were good, some bad.
A Series 1 (pre-series II) are mostly trouble free and I'd buy it if i was in the market for a 1911. The Series I guns are what forced Colt and Springfield Armory to start offering 1911s with options that shooters wanted

It is a bit more complicated when you get into the Series II guns. The rule of thumb is that you are safe going with any model with "Warrior" in it's name
 
The original Kimbers were extremely high quality and they were built for Kimber by Chip McCormick. They were every bit the equivalent of a Wilson Combat pistol. My doctor showed me one he just bought in 1996 and I was completely blown away. Everything was perfectly fitted up. Once Kimber tooled up and started mass production that level of quality went away very quickly. But those first models were a game changer for people like me tuning production 1911s. My doctor asked what I could do to improve it and I had to tell him "Nothing". My advice was "Never sell this gun".
 
It is a bit more complicated when you get into the Series II guns. The rule of thumb is that you are safe going with any model with "Warrior" in it's name
Generally speaking, the Warrior guns don't carry the "II" designation. The "II" typically indicates the presence of a firing pin safety, though that could have been the basis of your recommendation - choose a Kimber without a firing pin safety.
 
I bought it. I got the delay from NICS so now I wait. I called Kimber to date it and gave them the serial number-KGL4669 and the guy says "now that is a strange number", followed by "I'm finding nothing on it, from '95 to '98 we didn't keep track, it could be one those."

It doesn't say Yonkers or Oregon on it either (unless it's hidin). What did I buy?? I did the usual checks, he let me take it down to inspect everything-excellent btw, definitely hasn't seen much range time. Did I overlook the make of the frame? The blued/browned look matched up so I never figured it'd be mixed.
20190118_164114.jpg 20190118_131652.jpg I paid $560 for anyone who is curious. But can someone tell me what I bought? No "made in" stampings. Odd serial number according to the Kimber rep.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I'm pretty sure that is not a Kimber frame. The slide and trigger are from a late 90's Kimber but the frame would either say Made in Clackamas or Made in Yonkers if it were truly a Kimber. I have two of the Clackamas pistols and they are built very well. Funny thing is all of the Kimber 1911s were built in NY except for maybe the first couple of prototypes.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I'm pretty sure that is not a Kimber frame. The slide and trigger are from a late 90's Kimber but the frame would either say Made in Clackamas or Made in Yonkers if it were truly a Kimber. I have two of the Clackamas pistols and they are built very well. Funny thing is all of the Kimber 1911s were built in NY except for maybe the first couple of prototypes.
Bad news indeed. It looked correct, the finish was exactly identical to the slide so i never questioned it. Unless the combo got re blued at the same time.
 
Take the grip off to see if there is additional stamping. the rear tangs look Kimber or STI ish.

Course just shoot it a lot and it won't matter.. :)
 
Bad news indeed. It looked correct, the finish was exactly identical to the slide so i never questioned it. Unless the combo got re blued at the same time.




I would take it back and try to get your money back or at least store credit. If he had it advertised and obviously priced as a Kimber, whether he knew it or not, he was misrepresenting what it actually was. Even if it's a great shooter it's not worth much more than $400 in my opinion.
 
I would take it back and try to get your money back or at least store credit. If he had it advertised and obviously priced as a Kimber, whether he knew it or not, he was misrepresenting what it actually was. Even if it's a great shooter it's not worth much more than $400 in my opinion.
I called him today, didn't want to make the 1 hr trip, and I asked him where it was made and he said "it says Yonkers, Ny". It must just be extremely poorly stamped in or worn. Or he's lying and just didn't even look. Maybe the slide serration shadow in the pic is covering it. Idk. I didn't see anything. Hmm.
 
I called him today, didn't want to make the 1 hr trip, and I asked him where it was made and he said "it says Yonkers, Ny". It must just be extremely poorly stamped in or worn. Or he's lying and just didn't even look. Maybe the slide serration shadow in the pic is covering it. Idk. I didn't see anything. Hmm.



Maybe it is just worn and he's telling the truth but neither the prefix nor the serial number itself you provided look right to me. Hopefully I am wrong, you will know soon enough when you go to pick it up.
 
After looking at that photo that gun looks like it was built in a local shop - not by Kimber. The grip and thumb safeties are aftermarket and I think the hammer is also. $400 gun.
 
I see something just above the serial number.

Are you looking at the gun or just going by pictures?
I looked at the gun and did the usual checks for a used 1911 but just plain forgot to look at the "made in..." mark.
Maybe it is just worn and he's telling the truth but neither the prefix nor the serial number itself you provided look right to me. Hopefully I am wrong, you will know soon enough when you go to pick it up.
Could be. I'll be sure to update this thread when (if) I bring it home.
After looking at that photo that gun looks like it was built in a local shop - not by Kimber. The grip and thumb safeties are aftermarket and I think the hammer is also. $400 gun.
The grip panels look right. So does the thumb safety. Here's a comparison pic from a different seller: download.jpeg.jpg
 
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