Wood adhesive for clean, grain cracks?

I don't know if those stocks have value as is or not.

Discussion earlier https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/remington-model-11-replacement-stock.568429/

These look very nice and reasonably priced but you have to fit them then apply finish. There is a serial number guide if you read down a bit and they have fore ends.

https://www.cottagecraftworks.com/remington-model-11-walnut-stock

Well, I can tell you how I would attempt the permanent fix. I'd scrape a "V" along the full length of edges of the crack on the inside of the forearm. Clean the crack with acetone, as it looks like there could be old oil in there. Use a good two-part epoxy, like Acra-Glue and inject that into the crack. Then, clamp down on the crack with an over-reach expanding clamp until some of the epoxy oozes out. Let that set-up sit for at least two days, then remove the oozed out, hardened epoxy, and then finish with a wood sealing finish.
You may want to investigate the rear fit of that forearm to the receiver and consider epoxy fitting in that area. With the recoiling barrel, as that shotgun has, you want that fit to be a match the same as a ducks foot print in mud!

Cyanoacrylate, also known as "Crazy Glue". Though it would be much better to get a major maker, like Loctite. They even sell some of their "Pro-Series" at place like Target (and they work well).

Cyanoacrylate. But you got to work fast. I would do small sections at a time. Acraglas would give you more time to work with and might be better for such a long crack. The quality of the repair may be affected by oil or sweat that soaked into the crack. I repaired a Winchester .44 rifle stock that cracked just like that years ago and I think I used epoxy. It's held up for 20 years so far. MEK is not an adhesive - it's a strong cleaning and stripping solvent. I used a lot of it in the military (ain't got no OSHA inspectors in the military) MEK is very nasty stuff and I would avoid it.

Found this thread where RC talked about stock repairs.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/03-stock-wrist-crack.305565/#post-3759113
Remembered the "hot stuff", also thought in another thread that Hobby Lobby possibly carried, but couldn't find that thread, I may be confused.

Thin superglue also know as cyanoacrylate is excellent for crack repair. It will flow into the crack and you just add more until the crack won't absorb more. Of course you need to remove the cause of the crack if you want the repair to last.

CA or Cyanoacrylate. You can get different viscositys from hobby shops that cater to RC planes and such. The thin CA can wick into balsa wood and turn it into a solid mass, pretty impressive stuff.

I've used Elmer's Waterproof glue. I forced the crack open a bit, dribbled in rubbing alcohol to clean some of the oil and let it dry overnight. I forced the glue into the crack (as much as possible), closed the crack and clamped it tight (using a carpenter's clamp). I wiped off the excess and let it dry for 2 days. Since it hasn't opened up again, I guess it's been repaired.

Brownell's Acraglas gel. Have fixed many a crack, even wrist cracks, with zero failures. Some you can no longer tell where the crack was.

250-3000 said:

Found this thread where RC talked about stock repairs.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/03-stock-wrist-crack.305565/#post-3759113
Remembered the "hot stuff", also thought in another thread that Hobby Lobby possibly carried, but couldn't find that thread, I may be confused.

Click to expand...

Hot stuff is very thin and best used in very tight cracks. Acraglass is a bit thicker resin and resists cracking a bit more. The first question is whether or not you still intend the fire the shotgun. If you do, I suggest getting a forearm just for shooting because cracking is a very common problem with these and fix the existing forend for prettiness and to retain collector/sentimental value.

Given the thinness of the wood here and the substantial recoil force the forearm is subjected to, cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) or even acraglass will fracture without mechanical reinforcement that tie the upper and lower section of the crack together. Either pins, bowties, reinforcement will have to be used to give any chance for success in a high stress area like this.

The CYA like hotstuff is usually pretty good about getting into tight cracks without much pumping to get good coverage in the crack. The thicker acraglass usually requires spreading the crack enough to get enough material in and then clamping it which forces the excess out (makes a mess so I recommend following Acraglass instructions using paste wax, surgical tubing, etc. to the letter.

On reinforcement, one way (which is obvious) is to carefully inset wood butterflies (looks like a bowtie) across the crack to hold it together along with the glue. Another way, that is a bit more promising in your case might be carefully drilling holes perpendicular (90 degrees) to the hole and inserting glued pin reinforcement such as threaded brass rods, wood dowels, even ridged nails or screws, etc. for reinforcement. On the perpendicular reinforcing pins, you want to have enough wood above and below to make it work. Depending on how you want it finished, you can either leave the brass tip of the pin exposed which will darken with time, or even use a plug to conceal it. Wood dowels are a bit easier to blend in to the existing wood. Obviously, the greatest risk is if the material shifts when drilling it and you go out the sidewall so you will need a drill press and vise for this repair.

Useful old THR post on subject
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/wooden-stock-repair-question.643516/

Midway USA youtube on fixing a cracked Model 11 stock and forearm

Search out other repair tips from GunnyUSMC aka Candyman who used to do this quite a bit and explain the process on the THR and some other forums.


Example of a butterfly key repair and reinforcement. Used a lot in furniture repair. Usually pretty obvious repair so you want to be good at it. The idea behind using pins or dowels is not to be obvious--obviously.