Has anyone who switched to wet tumbling gone back to dry?

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Dewey 68

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Was thinking about moving to a FART for preparing my brass. The results look great, but I'm not sure the extra steps would be worth it. My Dad has an old rock tumbler that I may borrow and buy some SS pins and give it a try before I shell out the money for a FART.

Has anyone on here tried wet tumbling and gone back to dry?
 
I did, sorta. I experimented with several "loads" in my rotary tumbler with very small stainless steel cotter pins ans #4 washers. I knew the primer pockets wouldn't get "sparkling clean" but I have no need for pristine primer pockets or case IDs. The results were as expected, very clean/shiny brass, but the "extras" didn't set well with me. I do not have running water/sink in my reloading shop, so I had to either go to the hose in the back yard or try for the kitchen sink (Ma is very forgiving, but don't make a mess in her kitchen!). Mixing the solution wasn't too much of a big deal, but it was a bit messy. Rinsing and sorting the pins fro the brass followed by another rinsing was no fun (I guess I don't like water dripping all over my reloading shop floor). I could either drag out my PC toaster oven to dry or try towel/air drying. My "formula" for the solution was just water, Dawn, and citric acid all of which I had in the shop, but I would have had to research/change/experiment with a new solution as the cleaned brass tarnished rather quickly. I have my rotary with "custom" drums, my mix of corn cob blast media plus some resin chunks that works quite well and is cleaner, easier for my and my shop...
 
Try the rock tumbler WITOUT THE PITA PINS and the traditional additives.
The results might be "good enough" for you because I have found the pins to be a pain in the butt to deal with.
:D
edit: enough other threads on this subject to keep you reading for hours...
 
Try the rock tumbler WITOUT THE PITA PINS and the traditional additives.
The results might be "good enough" for you because I have found the pins to be a pain in the butt to deal with.
:D
edit: enough other threads on this subject to keep you reading for hours...

Hours, you mean DAYS, WEEKS? People spend more time cleaning or talking about cleaning brass then reloading:eek:
Hope the clean their guns as well.
 
Have the FART setup used it twice and then went back to my Dillon CV-500. After 30 years to old for all that work cleaning brass
 
Sort of. I switched to wet tumbling, quitting dry and then went back to adding dry after wet. It sounds like even more hassle, but I assure you it can be done with minimal fuss provided you have enough capacity.

First, the reason wet tumbling is critical is that it keeps lead styphnate dust out of your air and lungs. I would not dry tumble cases shot with common lead styphnate primers in my house, garage, or around my workspace. It would have to go to an outside shed and I'd want a respirator to separate the media. But with wet tumbling, the heavy metal salts are dissolved or suspended in the fluid. Also, consider if you're processing cases shot with lead styphnate primers you will want to clean them before and after decapping them. Even though I've switched to shooting only heavy-metal free primers, I still prefer wet tumbling. I wet tumble in my garage near my reloading tools and there is no mess.

The right call is for most shooters to demand and use lead-free ammunition. Not only does it keep all shooters, reloaders and indoor range users safer, it also removes any meaningfulness to calls for lead bans for environmental reasons, allowing the few people who really want to use lead to continue to do so. As long as most shooters just use lead wantonly, it only serves to keep the issue on the radar for legislative ban.

Wet tumbling cleans the cases much better. Pictures easily demonstrate that, though detractors could question whether it is necessary. I found with wet tumbling, drying the brass is an important concern (even slightly wet cases can result in squib loads). There are numerous brass-drying methods but what worked best for me is to shake in a towel and air dry, then tumble in dry media. Not only does it assure dry cases, but it also returns the slick finish to the brass that wet tumbling tends to strip.

I use a Rebel 17 rotary tumbler, an improved but imported copy of the long-time favorite Thumlers B. I believe they're about the same size but slightly smaller than the Frankford tumbler. The key to avoiding hassle is to have a larger capacity. I can't emphasize this enough. It doesn't matter how simple your brass cleaning regimen is. If you have to do it for every time you go shooting, it's a pain in the neck. On the other hand, additional processing is negligible if you only have to concern yourself with it every couple of months.
 
Capacity is the key to making brass processing simple regardless of how many steps you go through. The capacity of the Frankford, Rebel 17 and Thumler B are all based on rock tumblers that were repurposed or copied. They're suitable for reloaders that process small batches of brass at a time, but if you're shooting enough that you have to go through the whole process everytime you go to the range, then their capacity is not practical.

How many cases each can process at a time is a subject of various claims. Capacity is determined by the volume of the container and the torque of the motor to move it hours on end without overheating. The Thumlers B is rated for 15 pounds total and is said to hold up to 1.3 gallons volume. This is just under 5L. They also claim "250 30-30 cases." The Rebel 17 is rated for 17 pounds, holds about 6L volume and is claimed to process up to 4 pounds of brass, which is about 400 .357 Magnum cases. The FA tumbler has a maximum weight of 30 pounds, and is 7L in volume. They claim "1000 .223 cases," but it should be noted that load would not include stainless media. With stainless media, the capacity might only be half that or less. All of these tumblers are typically sold with 5 pounds of stainless media, which suggests their capacities are roughly equivalent.

If you have more than a couple thousand brass casings or process anywhere close to a thousand a month, these little rock-tumbler-based machines have insufficient capacity. This is especially true if you shoot a higher volume of a single cartridge type. With lower volumes of many cartridge types, you could use several of these small rock tumblers, but unless you want to process brass every time you go to the range or several times a month, a larger capacity is much more convenient.

I reload what I consider to be a modest volume. I only own about 1000 cases of my most frequently used cartridge and I only reload for two cartridges. I find the Rebel 17 I use has adequate capacity, but barely. I have to stay on top of brass-processing or it gets to be a lot of work cleaning multiple batches to catch up. If you own several thousand, certainly if you have ten thousand or more cases of one type, and you reload 1000 at a time or more, then these little rock tumblers would be a big waste of time.

I bought the small rotary rock tumbler and I'm going to use it. But I would recommend a person buy a few thousand more cases and one of those small electric cement mixers. Then, unless you're reloading 10's of thousands of rounds a year, you only have to process brass a few times a year, say 5000 cases at a time, and it's only one batch. If you get one of these rock tumblers and you're going to run 40 to 60 batches a year, that gets to be a waste of time. The cement mixers don't cost more and the extra brass is worth it.
 
I take it your not a bullet caster ;)

No, I'm not, but I'm pro-bullet casting. I'm just not willing to do what it takes to do it safely. I also think the widespread use of lead where it is not even desirable does not contribute to supporting casters' liberty, but it threatens it. Some casters might think that everyone should keep shooting lead to keep it "normalized." But it creates a bigger, more significant issue that a ban would resolve. You never hear about beryllium bans. But lead is banned everywhere from gasoline, to paint, to wheel weights, to ammo. Because it was used needlessly and indiscriminately. The foolish use of lead will get it banned. I wish shooters would choose smartly so there is no justification for someone to choose for them.
 
Worked with Beryllium for 15 years and lead for 50 years. Had my blood tested for lead it was a 4. If lead was banned tomorrow they would not stop there. All the bands from 1934 till today are about control. The industry will get to lead free primers just like they moved away from mercury over 60 years ago.
 
To answer the OP: "I'm sure you'll find someone, somewhere, who has,,,, for whatever reason that suited their situation"

I started with wet and pins. I keep hearing some folks claim it's a lot of work, but in my opinion, I just don't see it being that much work. At least not enough to merit going out and buying the equipment/consumables and ending up with less capacity per hour than I have now, and, well,,, dust.
 
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Maybe I'm just a cheapskate. My old Midway tumbler, using cheapo reptile bedding (crushed walnut shells, just not labeled as tumbling media, much cheaper...) still produces cases clean enough for me. I don't see what the big deal is.
 
I have and use both wet and dry tumblers. I use wet with pins the most and consider it easier, faster and better than dry. When I am lazier than normal, I'll wet tumble without pins.
I am not terribly particular about how shiny my brass is but with a progressive loader cleaner is better.
 
I have a HF Ultrasonic, FART & a Midway vibrator unit. I use all three depending on the task at hand. I pre-condition .22 LR cases for de-rimming using the ultrasonic. I use the FART for the really dirty brass & when spotless primer pockets are needed. I use the vibra-tumbler for a final polish or when I just want to remove the lube off sized cases. I wish I had additional barrels for the FART so I could keep one with pins & one without. I know extra barrels are available but it looks like buying another FART on sale would be a better deal. Same with the vibrator barrel. I'd like one for walnut & one for corn-cob. They all are useful & have their place IMHO.
 
No advantage to wet for me...walnut or cob work well enough. Tumble before deprime.

These threads remind me of new product devellpment. After a product is designed, tested, and meets required minimum quality design standards it had to be wrenched away from engineering. They always wanted to make it just a little bit better. The reason for the product is to sell for profit, not to keep diddling with it to make it "better".

What level of cleanliness is required to achieve your shooting need?9
 
It takes me a few minutes to fill my F.A.R.T. with brass, pins, armor all, lemi shine and water. 1-2 hours of tumbling and another five or ten minutes to rinse and seperate the pins. I use my laundry tub, a five gallon bucket with a paint strainer bag, and a magnet. Not much work or mess. I dry the brass in a Lyman case dryer that I found in the Bargain Cave for $25. I know it's not necessary but it makes me very happy.
 
Has anyone on here tried wet tumbling and gone back to dry?[/QUOTE]

Not me. I struggled with dry, but wet tumbling suits me perfectly.
 
the results look great, but I'm not sure the extra steps would be worth it
They are.:) IMHO

Really not as much trouble as it sounds like.
I just put my cases on an old towel in the corner of a room and let them dry for a couple days.
Wash and Wax helps them dry and prevents tarnishing, a dab of citric acid makes things better.

Get a pin pickup magnet, they like to try to escape.
 
Does the opposite count? I have not stuck a 9mm case since (yes 9mm) or detail cleaned a die since. Plus I went to lubing the 9mm for the progressive. Much smother function. YMMV
 
Really not as much trouble as it sounds like.
That's my opinion as well.
I have 'brass o plenty', so I wait until I have several thousand cases to clean.
I tumble for about 90 minutes,,, Separate pins, reload the FART, ~towel~ dry the previous load, then 'final dry' on some 'dollar store' cookie sheets in Ma's oven. (About ~20-30~ min @ 225,) The next batch is typically ready to pull out of the FART ~20-30~ minutes after I'm done drying the previous batch,,,

Once you get the tumble/drying processes rolling along in unison, you can make short work of quite a bit of brass! (The AA W&W is just a little more 'icing on the cake'!)

On the other hand, we have folks who are completely satisfied with their current routine.

Nothing wrong with that at all!
 
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I primarily dry tumble. Once in a while when I want the cases really clean and I have a bunch to process and the time to do it, I'll run them through the wet tumbler system.
 
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