Another LGS and an interesting M10

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If doing a re-barrel, yes- best to stay with the same type/configuration.

Lotta snubs out there that did not leave the factory as snubs, so re-barreling in itself is not inherently a problem.
Whoever does the work needs to check for correct mating between sights as they end up, though.
Can't make assumptions, can't think "It's a 10, ANY 10 barrel should go right on".
Denis
 
Gunny,
Trying to get up the guts to open up the Triple Lock I acquired last year.

I can wander all over through a normal Smith DA revolver without fear, and I can even get everything together again with nothing left over. :)

But, this 1916 Triple Lock is in 90% condition.
I have newer Smiths I've carried myself that look worse.

This one went to war in the trenches.
It's just gummed up & slow to function (pretty much like me).
If & when I do get up sufficient gumption, I will be the first guy inside that Smith in 103 years.
I do not want to bugger a screw head or scratch the frame if a screwdriver slips.

The old 10 I have, is just an old 10 I have. :D
Denis
 
Gunny,
Trying to get up the guts to open up the Triple Lock I acquired last year.

I can wander all over through a normal Smith DA revolver without fear, and I can even get everything together again with nothing left over. :)

But, this 1916 Triple Lock is in 90% condition.
I have newer Smiths I've carried myself that look worse.

This one went to war in the trenches.
It's just gummed up & slow to function (pretty much like me).
If & when I do get up sufficient gumption, I will be the first guy inside that Smith in 103 years.
I do not want to bugger a screw head or scratch the frame if a screwdriver slips.

The old 10 I have, is just an old 10 I have. :D
Denis

Sounds to me like you need to remove the grips, soak it in a pail of ATF and give it a good shake. You may not have to open it at all.
 
I did take the grips off when I acquired it.
An old buddy I've known for 40-something years was selling it, inherited it from his grandpa who carried it in WW1.

I was looking for the serial number on a grip panel to show him, he thought that was cool.
We were the first to see that penciled serial since the long-dead craftsman at S&W put the wood on that gun a century ago.
He's in bad shape, his daughters had no interest in it.
He wanted it placed in a good home where it'd be appropriately prized.
No problem there. :)

I'm not an ATF kinda guy, but thanks for the suggestion.
One of these days I'll sit down with the toolbox and a pad on the kitchen table, when nobody's home but me, with no distractions, and I'll break the old warhorse down.

Back to the Model 10, I'm thinking of snubbing mine, semi-Fitzing the triggerguard, round-butting the grip, and hardchroming it.
Probably stags & a Tyler T.

Old school it! :)
Denis
 
6DD70C00-DF7C-4449-AD43-256E2358EB08.jpeg Here’s a model 10-5 that I had a local gunsmith change the barrel on. I found this two inch barrel on Gunbroker for $10 and had it for a few years before I found a model 10 at a good price. Just recently I got a wild hair and decided to round the butt. This is the result.
 
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I've got a J snub set up with a Tyler T.
Kinda like that one, too.
And a 4-inch pencil barrel with a TT.
Denis
 
View attachment 825846 Here’s a model 10-5 that I had a local gunsmith change the barrel on. I found this two inch barrel on Gunbroker for $10 and had it for a few years before I found a model 10 at a good price. Just recently I got a wild hair and decided to round the butt. This is the result.

Looks like a nearly perfect carry gun! The only reason I say nearly is the bluing would get trashed with the humidity where I live.
 
Gunny,
Trying to get up the guts to open up the Triple Lock I acquired last year.

I can wander all over through a normal Smith DA revolver without fear, and I can even get everything together again with nothing left over. :)

But, this 1916 Triple Lock is in 90% condition. I have newer Smiths I've carried myself that look worse.

Denis

I used to have a 455 Triple Lock. If you take it apart, be careful when you remove the cylinder. There is a spring loaded detent pin in the crane that engages in a dimple in the frame when the cylinder is full open. Its purpose is to provide a little bit of force to hold the cylinder at full open. The pin and spring in the crane are retained by absolutely nothing, and will pop out when the cylinder crane is pulled out of the frame. Finding them again is neither easy nor fun. You are probably well aware of this, but since it happened to me, I cannot resist warning others.
 
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