Get started in bullet casting

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schmooey1617 said:
Do I have to buy a new press, like the Lyman, 400 I believe the model was? It had a lube warmer on it ??
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That was discussed elsewhere. Powder Coating works at least as well as lube, and is much cheaper and easier to apply. You need a plastic bowl (butter tub or whipped topping container), a toaster over (about $20 at Wal Mart) and a pack of nitrile gloves. You can buy powder coating cheaply -- typically under $10.00 a pound, and a pound will last a long time. On a per-round basis, it's cheaper than bullet lube -- and a lot less messy.

Put the bullets in the plastic tub, add powder coating and shake-shake-shake. The powder will adhere by static electricity (you can enhance the effect by stroking the bowl with a wool glove, or adding air soft BBs). Pick the coated bullets out and put them in the pre-heated toaster oven and bake for 20 minutes at 400 degrees.


Since powder coating comes in many colors, I color-code bullets. For a batch of .45 bullets, for example, I will coat some of them green (for 14,000 PSI loads for the Colt SAA), some yellow (for 19,000 psi loads from my Colt New Service) and some red (for 32,000 psi loads for my Ruger Blackhawk.)
 
schmooey1617 said:
Do I have to buy a new press, like the Lyman, 400 I believe the model was? It had a lube warmer on it ??
Click to expand...

Those good cast presses Like the Lyman 450 and RCBS Lube-A-Matic last infinitely. I would lean toward an RCBS because of their customer service. I recently bought a used RCBS LAM that was missing a couple of parts and needed to be cleaned up. I boxed it up and sent it to RCBS and in a few weeks got a nearly new one in return, no charge. That's the second time they've done that for me.

Once set up, they're really nice. The lube warmer depends on what type lube you choose. I use a warmer on my Star sizer, but the RCBS doesn't need one, I just keep fairly soft lube in it. Another neat thing about using a lubrisizer is the ability to make ones own lube. When I was shooting High Power competition with cast bullets, I made my own lube and that home made lube gave fantastic accuracy. There's are volumes of lube recipes on the Cast Boolit site.

35W
 
Texas10mm said:
Lee molds will get you started. However Arsenal and NOE will keep you going.

Forget conventional lube. Use Hi-Tek. You can use the Lee sizing dies...but if you're going to cast for three or more calibers get the NOE system, in fact, just start with the NOE system as it offers a lot more options. Both the Lee and the NOE will fit on a single stage press.

If you're buying lead from Rotometals or something similar you're paying too much. Since you neglected to fill out your profile we have no idea where you live. If you live in a free state you should be able to source useable wheel weights. Learn to sort those and you're golden.

Depending on what cartridges you're loading for you can either use straight wheel weights or cut them 50/50 with pure lead. If you HAVE to order lead online get the super hard from Rotometals and use pure lead to cut it down. You can use pewter as a source of tin. $100 of the super hard nuggets cut with 175 lbs of pure lead and 2.5 lbs of added pewter will create 207.5 lbs of awesome bullet casting alloy.
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Yeah, thanks, I gotta fill that out. I live in N.E. Pennsylvania. As of now, the firearms laws are still as they have been since I was born. Unfortunately a "gun grabbing" governor has just been elected to his second term so we'll see. But this isn't the place or time for politics so forgive me for that.
I know of nowhere locally to acquire casting material, except possibly a couple tire shops in town.
Internet bought alloys are too expensive you say? Isn't it worth it if you find a place that has good quality, BHN alloy mixtures so you know what you're actually getting?
 
dannyd said:
The main thing try to keep it simple at first. This is a good place to start.
All the Lyman books are good too.

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
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Danny is exactly right. The Fryxell book is a good one and he is extremely knowledgeable on the subject.

Make sure you read his chapter on powder coating....oh wait....there isn't one! Wonder why? :D

35W
 
Vern Humphrey said:
That was discussed elsewhere. Powder Coating works at least as well as lube, and is much cheaper and easier to apply. You need a plastic bowl (butter tub or whipped topping container), a toaster over (about $20 at Wal Mart) and a pack of nitrile gloves. You can buy powder coating cheaply -- typically under $10.00 a pound, and a pound will last a long time. On a per-round basis, it's cheaper than bullet lube -- and a lot less messy.

Put the bullets in the plastic tub, add powder coating and shake-shake-shake. The powder will adhere by static electricity (you can enhance the effect by stroking the bowl with a wool glove, or adding air soft BBs). Pick the coated bullets out and put them in the pre-heated toaster oven and bake for 20 minutes at 400 degrees.


Since powder coating comes in many colors, I color-code bullets. For a batch of .45 bullets, for example, I will coat some of them green (for 14,000 PSI loads for the Colt SAA), some yellow (for 19,000 psi loads from my Colt New Service) and some red (for 32,000 psi loads for my Ruger Blackhawk.)
Click to expand...
Wondered how they coated bullets. I was a welder for 32 years and worked in places with powder coating booths that "spray painted" finished parts as they went by on a hanging line. Never seen the poly coating procedure being done, now I know. Duh. Thanks.
 
I did read the whole section by Mike Venturino in the Lyman 4th edition cast bullet handbook, it's pretty informative. Like ya say though, I wish I knew someone that I could actually watch go thru the procedures. Nobody I know even reloads much anymore. It's a shame.
 
What us simple minded folks are doing back flips. These back flips have to do with learning the basics without spending a fortune. We have a club of a thousand members. We decided there were four active bullet casters to our knowledge. As you can tell from of the post some of these folks are advanced casters. I'd suggest always do the reading. Not following through is like learning to swim from a book.
 
Vern Humphrey said:
That was discussed elsewhere. Powder Coating works at least as well as lube, and is much cheaper and easier to apply. You need a plastic bowl (butter tub or whipped topping container), a toaster over (about $20 at Wal Mart) and a pack of nitrile gloves. You can buy powder coating cheaply -- typically under $10.00 a pound, and a pound will last a long time. On a per-round basis, it's cheaper than bullet lube -- and a lot less messy.

Put the bullets in the plastic tub, add powder coating and shake-shake-shake. The powder will adhere by static electricity (you can enhance the effect by stroking the bowl with a wool glove, or adding air soft BBs). Pick the coated bullets out and put them in the pre-heated toaster oven and bake for 20 minutes at 400 degrees.


Since powder coating comes in many colors, I color-code bullets. For a batch of .45 bullets, for example, I will coat some of them green (for 14,000 PSI loads for the Colt SAA), some yellow (for 19,000 psi loads from my Colt New Service) and some red (for 32,000 psi loads for my Ruger Blackhawk.)
Click to expand...
Saw in another thread a guy had photos of his G2 Millennium like mine, but he had a clip of and a pile of lime green bullets, really cool lookin. "Kawasaki bullets". Yellow sounds neat too.
 
Lee will get you started. So will used gear.
The sky is the limit beyond that.
I'll recommend starting safe, cheap and simple.
That will get you making good, accurate bullets.
From there you can get as efficient/technical as you want.
Anyone can spend money on more gear, but learning how to use gear safely and well will come more quickly when you start with a simple set up.
My 2 centavos anyway.
 
schmooey1617 said:
Yeah, thanks, I gotta fill that out. I live in N.E. Pennsylvania. As of now, the firearms laws are still as they have been since I was born. Unfortunately a "gun grabbing" governor has just been elected to his second term so we'll see. But this isn't the place or time for politics so forgive me for that.
I know of nowhere locally to acquire casting material, except possibly a couple tire shops in town.
Internet bought alloys are too expensive you say? Isn't it worth it if you find a place that has good quality, BHN alloy mixtures so you know what you're actually getting?
Click to expand...

Believe it or not bullet fit is more important than having an exact BHN. Unless you're shooting a lot of full power magnum or rifle rounds over 2000 fps wheel weights will work just fine. I take wheel weights and cut them 50/50 with scrap pure lead. Those bullets work just fine in everything but my full power .44 mag loads and my full power .327 Federal loads.
 
Thanks you guys for the coating info. I assumed it was a process that could only be done by major manufacturers with specialized ,"thousands of dollars" type machines. I do buy poly coated bullets when possible but they do cost more and disability doesn't go too far so I gotta be pretty frugal. From what I'm reading by all you great guys, much like old time "stick" welding, bullet casting is kinda becoming a lost art.
 
Texas10mm said:
Believe it or not bullet fit is more important than having an exact BHN. Unless you're shooting a lot of full power magnum or rifle rounds over 2000 fps wheel weights will work just fine. I take wheel weights and cut them 50/50 with scrap pure lead. Those bullets work just fine in everything but my full power .44 mag loads and my full power .327 Federal loads.
Click to expand...
No, I don't shoot the big magnums anymore like when I was young. And I only shoot my rifles a few times a year, using the factory made hunting bullets I actually use in deer, bear, woodchuck, crow seasons. I only use cast bullets in my 9mm's, my 40 S&W's, and my 45acp's. So velocity rarely passes 1200fps. All the casts I currently buy are between 12-16 BHN, and I haven't had any leading issues at all. I don't own, out of 10 handguns, any Glocks which I understand have polygonal rifling which causes excessive leading except for very hard bullets. Is that correct?
 
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schmooey1617 said:
No, I don't shoot the big magnums anymore like when I was young. And I only shoot my rifles a few times a year, using the factory made hunting bullets I actually use in deer, bear, woodchuck, crow seasons. I only use cast bullets in my 9mm's, my 40 S&W's, and my 45acp's. So velocity rarely passes 1200fps. All the casts I currently buy are between 12-16 BHN, and I haven't had any leading issues at all. I don't own, out of 10 handguns, any Glocks which I understand have polygonal rifling which causes excessive leading except for very hard bullets. Is that correct?
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Start with 45 acp it's one of easiest bullets to cast.
 
dannyd said:
Start with 45 acp it's one of easiest bullets to cast.
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Thank you. Wondered if a smaller or larger caliber was "easier" to get proper mould fill or not. I also read somewhere that HP moulds are definitely NOT for beginners. Is that a fact ?? Or someone who just had bad experiences with a HP mould ?
 
Generally speaking, larger bullets are slightly easier to cast. Hollowpoint moulds have an extra part -- a pin that fits in the most of the mould and makes the hollow. That makes it a little more complex.
 
Armored farmer said:
View attachment 828023 You have a wealth of info here. I wont try to add to....other than to say that I completely enjoy casting my own bullets slugs and round balls.
It is just as enjoyable and rewarding as reloading.
Taking game or shooting matches with your own bullets....that's the best.
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Pretty damn good lookin round balls there buddy.
 
schmooey1617 said:
Thank you. Wondered if a smaller or larger caliber was "easier" to get proper mould fill or not. I also read somewhere that HP moulds are definitely NOT for beginners. Is that a fact ?? Or someone who just had bad experiences with a HP mould ?
Click to expand...

It depends on the hollow point mold. The Lyman molds with that big pin require some expertise. The NOE RG models aren't something I would recommend for a beginner either. However, the MP Cramer style hollow point molds are easy peasy.
 
Texas10mm said:
I take wheel weights and cut them 50/50 with scrap pure lead.
Click to expand...

Funny you should speak of this mix. The 50/50 of unalloyed lead and wheel weights works great for me making bullets for the blackpowder breech loaders. That mix has also been suggested for casting hollow point bullets. Might be worth a thought to help OP with ways of coming up with an alloys since wheel weights are now more and more zinc.
 
schmooey1617 said:
I don't own, out of 10 handguns, any Glocks which I understand have polygonal rifling which causes excessive leading except for very hard bullets. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Talking about lead bullets in Glocks a hot button topic. It's like bringing up the topic of illegitimacy at the family picnic. I'd leave HP bullets and Glock's until later. Take care of the basic first.
 
Lol. Not really an issue for me. I know that Glocks are probably the most popular autoloaders in the world, both by the general public, and as a fact, by more law enforcement agencies than any gun. I personally don't like them, they don't fit my large hands and I think they are pretty overpriced. Uh oh, I'm in trouble now, by the millions of Glock owners. But I also know a hefty percentage by aftermarket barrels for them like Wolf.
Yeah, about the HP moulds, I'll stay clear of them for a while. Was just asking. Once I decide on a kit/set-up, I plan on starting with a basic .45 caliber, semi wadcutter round nose design that I currently shoot the most of out of my .45acp's and they both shoot very well.
 
schmooey1617 said:
I plan on starting with a basic .45 caliber, semi wadcutter round nose design that I currently shoot the most of out of my .45acp's and they both shoot very well
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I have shot some of the Lee 452-200 SWC. Take a look at that bullet to see if it would work. The round nose design is 452-228-1R. The Lee SWC ran very well in my Colt 1911. These newer Lee mold are very nice. These molds are not throw away stuff. If you have handguns you like stick with them. Don't let the fanboys get into your head. There are many thing to like about Glock's. If you don't like them and they don't feel good to you that is the final word.
 
FEA60361-8DE4-49C4-B466-6442B6E924A0.jpeg

You can see RCBS on left and Lyman on right. The rcbs is sturdier. I do use a heater sometimes on the rcbs. Molds are what you pay for. Collected are Lee, NOE and Accurate. 45-70 to 9 mm just in picture. I powdercoat some but prefer lube. Won’t go into Glocks but I do cast for them. Hard cast. Most of my casting is for lever rifles and Ruger revolvers. Cast Boolit forum has 4-5 people I buy lead from. I usually buy 50-50 ww and pure. Mix in tin and Linotype. Depending on what gun. Most are straight ww water quenched. I like the Lee 4-20 pot for 6 cavity molds like my 9 mm and 10 mm. I usually ladle and cast for big bore 2 cavity. Started cheap with a propane stove, an iron pot and a ladle. As mentioned on you tube Fortune Cookie 45 is good but my favorite is Elvis ammo. Good luck and enjoy.
 
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