Suppressor question

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gwb4964

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I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this so I'll ask forgiveness in advance.

I'm thinking of getting a suppressor and would like to know what if any the sound difference would be from a 1.375x6" over an 8" and if you wen to a 1.5x6" or 8" etc. I've never owned one before and before I purchase one I need to know what to get I will put it on a Glock 19 and understand I may need a booster as well.

I do know I'll have to wait a long time for a stamp I'm just interested in the technical aspect.

Any all knowing soles out there with wisdom you'd like to share?

GW
 
You'll need to provide more information. What specific suppressor(s) are you looking at? What calibers?
 
I'm no expert but have a gemtech in 9mm and several host guns for it. It came with what gemtech calls an L.I.D. or a linear decupler. This allows the slide to Recepricate. When I use it on an uzi I just unscrew the L.I.D. and it affixes to an adapter on the barrel nut. Generally the longer the can the quieter the report. But with my hearing today I doubt I could tell the difference.
 
I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this so I'll ask forgiveness in advance.

I'm thinking of getting a suppressor and would like to know what if any the sound difference would be from a 1.375x6" over an 8" and if you wen to a 1.5x6" or 8" etc. I've never owned one before and before I purchase one I need to know what to get I will put it on a Glock 19 and understand I may need a booster as well.

I do know I'll have to wait a long time for a stamp I'm just interested in the technical aspect.

Any all knowing soles out there with wisdom you'd like to share?

GW

I doubt that the sound difference would be significant enough to tell.

Getting a suppressor that is multicaliber is better than a dedicated one for one caliber. Mine is for a 45 ACP that has adapters for 9 mm and 40 S&W. It works on pistols or carbines.

You need to research ammunition as much as your choice of caliber.

There are mono core vs baffle designs. That is what you should determine for your needs.
 
Glock 19 would be 9mm.
A 9mm fired through a 9mm suppressor can sound different from a 9mm fired through a .45 suppressor. Tone is the most likely change, but depending on the can you can get sound level differences as well. Knowing the caliber of the suppressors being considered is important.

OP: volume is one part of how a suppressor sounds, but you also need to take into account the internals as well. Are we talking monocore, k baffle, or another (maybe proprietary) baffle design? Bore diameter - both nominal (9mm, .45 etc) and actual (how much clearance do the baffles have) plays a part too. And is this a form 1 build or a purchase from a manufacturer? Lots of things go into which suppressor is quieter.

Generally, a larger can will have a deeper tone and will have a better chance at being quieter.

Unless you're looking at a specialty can (micro cans like the TM Poseidon or the Abraxis) you will definitely need a booster.
 
I just sent my paperwork off for my first suppressor, I found the blog articles on silnencershop to be pretty informative. Some good reading, I spent quite a bit of time browsing on there before picking mine.

https://www.silencershop.com/blog

Mine is for a 22 so I can’t really help on a 9mm one but there is a lot of good information on their website. I didn’t buy from them just used them for research purposes.
 
A 9mm fired through a 9mm suppressor can sound different from a 9mm fired through a .45 suppressor. Tone is the most likely change, but depending on the can you can get sound level differences as well. Knowing the caliber of the suppressors being considered is important.

OP: volume is one part of how a suppressor sounds, but you also need to take into account the internals as well. Are we talking monocore, k baffle, or another (maybe proprietary) baffle design? Bore diameter - both nominal (9mm, .45 etc) and actual (how much clearance do the baffles have) plays a part too. And is this a form 1 build or a purchase from a manufacturer? Lots of things go into which suppressor is quieter.

Generally, a larger can will have a deeper tone and will have a better chance at being quieter.

Unless you're looking at a specialty can (micro cans like the TM Poseidon or the Abraxis) you will definitely need a booster.

Thanks this was very helpful. I have not decided on a can yet I’m in the research stage yet and this type of information will help me make up my mined. I will be using it on both the G19 and Ruger Charger and kelteck sub 2000.

The only reason to get it is so I can shoot at our river property without annoying our Nieghbor’s to much.

Thanks again and Most appreciated,
GW
 
I want one for my .45 but am procrastinating in hopes the hearing bill will eventually pass so I don’t have to register, pay $200 and wait forever....
 
I want one for my .45 but am procrastinating in hopes the hearing bill will eventually pass so I don’t have to register, pay $200 and wait forever....

I hear you I debated and may still wait a while. Have fun!
 
If you want to use the can on a charger and sub 2000, you'll also need a fixed barrel mount (or a spacer) for the can as well. Fixed barrels and boosters don't mix.

I want one for my .45 but am procrastinating in hopes the hearing bill will eventually pass so I don’t have to register, pay $200 and wait forever....

I want the HPA to pass as much as the next guy, but odds are that you are going to be waiting a long time to actually get your can.

NFA weapons are a game of "hurry up and wait". If you've decided that you are going to get a can, then go you can either wait now WITH a form in process, or wait and then put a form in and wait some more. When I got my first can, I decided that I would get one and waited about a year and then bought one. I realized pretty quickly that if I had just gotten the process started when I first decided to get the can, I would have waited only 13 months as opposed to my self-imposed 12 month wait and then the 13 month wait for the NFA process.

Also, look at what the manufacturing backlog has been with 41P(F) and even the SilencerCo buy one-get one free deal. Both caused huge delays in just getting the suppressor available to the customer. Those are going to look like nothing if HPA actually does get passed and everyone on the fence "waiting for HPA..." finally decides to order a suppressor. Not saying that it won't eventually reach a market equilibrium, but I guarantee it'll be more than a year. Look at the transfer tax and registration as a "I get to have this sorta soon" instead of "I might get my can sometime in the next 5-10 years" (for clarity, 5-10 from this date, not the enactment of HPA)

If you want to wait for HPA, do your thing. But if you actually want to buy and shoot your suppressor just go ahead and get the NFA process started and consider the $200 as a fixed rental fee for now through whenever the HPA does actually make it through.
 
Have plenty of NFA items and aware of the wait/process. The suppressor is a want but not a need at this time. Perhaps I'll give in and fill out the paperwork, pay the fine (fee) and then wait like everyone else.....
 
For a given volume & weight, length is more effective than diameter for reducing SPL. That is due to the time component; a suppressor has to do what it does between the time the bullet enters and exits. An 8" long can has 33% more time than a 6". That's why my Phoenix IX is 1.25"x8" instead of 1.375" x ~7" like many other production models.

If you aren't going to suppress larger calibers, a shorter & lighter dedicated 9mm can will give suppression equal to or better than a .45 cal can.

If you do decide you want the flexibility of a larger bore suppressor, you have modular options that will give you long and short configurations, 6.5-7" in short and 8.5-9" in long. The Rugged Obsidian, AAC TiRant 45M, the Phoenix M I offer. No reason to buy a K can with modulars available.

As for HPA, you're gonna kick yourself later for waiting. It's highly unlikely to ever become a reality, and certainly not with a Democrat controlled house who wants more gun control, not less. Just suck it up and pay for your stamp.
 
For a given volume & weight, length is more effective than diameter for reducing SPL. That is due to the time component; a suppressor has to do what it does between the time the bullet enters and exits. An 8" long can has 33% more time than a 6". That's why my Phoenix IX is 1.25"x8" instead of 1.375" x ~7" like many other production models.

If you aren't going to suppress larger calibers, a shorter & lighter dedicated 9mm can will give suppression equal to or better than a .45 cal can.

If you do decide you want the flexibility of a larger bore suppressor, you have modular options that will give you long and short configurations, 6.5-7" in short and 8.5-9" in long. The Rugged Obsidian, AAC TiRant 45M, the Phoenix M I offer. No reason to buy a K can with modulars available.

As for HPA, you're gonna kick yourself later for waiting. It's highly unlikely to ever become a reality, and certainly not with a Democrat controlled house who wants more gun control, not less. Just suck it up and pay for your stamp.

That is very good advice I'm a novas when it comes to cans and am trying to learn all I can about them before purchasing one. I had thought about getting one that could be used multi purpose 45acp, 9mm and 22lr but is that a dumb idea or what in your opinion? and how do they adapt from .578x28 to 1/2x28? do you have to buy different threaded end caps or what?

I realize I will not need a booster for the charger and the sub 2000 but I would for the G19 and G21.

I probably will not wait to do the paper work as I agree it is a waist of time waiting on HPA.

Thanks for your help,
GW
 
That is very good advice I'm a novas when it comes to cans and am trying to learn all I can about them before purchasing one. I had thought about getting one that could be used multi purpose 45acp, 9mm and 22lr but is that a dumb idea or what in your opinion? and how do they adapt from .578x28 to 1/2x28? do you have to buy different threaded end caps or what?

I realize I will not need a booster for the charger and the sub 2000 but I would for the G19 and G21.

I probably will not wait to do the paper work as I agree it is a waist of time waiting on HPA.

Thanks for your help,
GW

If you have a .40, 10mm or .45 to suppress, starting with a .45 can would definitely be the smart choice, add a 9mm critter later. But if you only have 9mm pistol hosts, no reason to deal with the extra size and weight.

Rimfire through pistol cans certainly works, but dedicated rimfire suppressors work better, as well as being smaller & lighter. There is such a thing as too much volume, especially when the features of the baffles are optimized for rounds burning more powder. You end up with poor laminar flow disruption, which means higher muzzle SPL. That said, with some blowback guns (centerfires, not .22s), you're better off with a can that has higher muzzle SPL in exchange for lower port noise. This is definitely something to consider in deciding between a 9 can and a .45 can if you're using it on your Sub 2K or other blowback carbines; the greater internal volume and overbore of the .45 suppressor results in decreased backpressure, which means lower dBs at shooter's ear. Better to have around 130 dB on both ends than 124 at the muzzle and 137 at the ear.

As for adapting to different guns, yes, you'll run a booster for any locked breech pistol. The pistons are what you change for different threads. They're available in all common sizes for most cans; 1/2-28, 1/2-36, 9/16-24, .578-28, 5/8-24, M13.5x1.0, M14.5x1.0, M16x1.0, as well as left hand metrics.

On fixed barrel guns, not only do you not need a booster, you should never run one. One of the employees at a local shop who distributes my cans just KO'd a Phoenix IX demo model that way. Well, for one, he put it on a 5.56 AR, which it's not rated for. My Phoenix will take that pressure, but running it on a fixed barrel with the booster launches the can forward during firing and causes axial misalignment, resulting in baffle strikes. I don't know how many rounds he fired, but it wrecked the stack, and bullet fragments dented the tube up pretty good, too much to reuse.
 
If you want a can I'd go ahead and get it. I don't see that law passing in any of our lifetimes.
 
I have another question: I'm new to all this so open to any and all advise.

Booster mounts vs 3 lug mounts for a 45 acp is there an advantage one over the other?
 
If you have a .40, 10mm or .45 to suppress, starting with a .45 can would definitely be the smart choice, add a 9mm critter later. But if you only have 9mm pistol hosts, no reason to deal with the extra size and weight.

Rimfire through pistol cans certainly works, but dedicated rimfire suppressors work better, as well as being smaller & lighter. There is such a thing as too much volume, especially when the features of the baffles are optimized for rounds burning more powder. You end up with poor laminar flow disruption, which means higher muzzle SPL. That said, with some blowback guns (centerfires, not .22s), you're better off with a can that has higher muzzle SPL in exchange for lower port noise. This is definitely something to consider in deciding between a 9 can and a .45 can if you're using it on your Sub 2K or other blowback carbines; the greater internal volume and overbore of the .45 suppressor results in decreased backpressure, which means lower dBs at shooter's ear. Better to have around 130 dB on both ends than 124 at the muzzle and 137 at the ear.

As for adapting to different guns, yes, you'll run a booster for any locked breech pistol. The pistons are what you change for different threads. They're available in all common sizes for most cans; 1/2-28, 1/2-36, 9/16-24, .578-28, 5/8-24, M13.5x1.0, M14.5x1.0, M16x1.0, as well as left hand metrics.

On fixed barrel guns, not only do you not need a booster, you should never run one. One of the employees at a local shop who distributes my cans just KO'd a Phoenix IX demo model that way. Well, for one, he put it on a 5.56 AR, which it's not rated for. My Phoenix will take that pressure, but running it on a fixed barrel with the booster launches the can forward during firing and causes axial misalignment, resulting in baffle strikes. I don't know how many rounds he fired, but it wrecked the stack, and bullet fragments dented the tube up pretty good, too much to reuse.

Got another question for you. you seem to have a lot of knowledge on the subject of suppressors and I appreciate your feedback.
Booster mounts vs 3 lug mounts for a 45 acp is there an advantage one over the other? Also do you just buy another mount if your using it on a 9mm or what? how does that work to use it multi caliber?
Thanks,
GW
 
Booster vs 3 lug is more about what platform you are using rather than caliber. Most 3 lug attachments are on rifles/SBRs (and mostly H&Ks). If your long gun doesn't already have a 3 lug mount on it you would have to use an adapter (whatever thread pitch to 3 lug) so there's no benefit to using a 3 lug when compared to any other quick detach method out there.

If you are using a pistol, go direct thread. QD mounts generally require some sort of flash hider or compensator to be threaded on the barrel which works fine for rifles, but it's ungangly for pistols (and also has to come off for disassembly).

If you're using a rifle, you can look into a QD mount, but I don't think you lose much by going direct thread. If you use mounts, you'll likely want to standardize on one type and you'll need a mount for every gun that you want to suppress.

If you have a pistol can with a booster, using it on different calibers is as simple as swapping the threaded adapter (assuming your can is rated for the caliber). Moving to a rifle or other fixed barrel would need a fixed mount in that thread pattern or using the threaded insert in the right thread pitch with a fixed spacer.
 
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