S&W Revolver Experts, Questions......

I'm going to look at a police turn in S&W Model 64-5 tomorrow at a local gun store. I'll check it out for a tight cylinder when cocked, general condition, etc. Will also check to make sure forcing cone isn't cracked.

My question are, does anyone know what the gap should be between the cylinder and the barrel? Should I bring a set of feeler gauges to check? Anything else I should be looking for?

They have 64-3, 64-5, and 64-6. I'm looking at the -5 because it supposedly has improvements over the -3, and the -6 has MIM parts. Does the -6 have an external lock or the two piece barrel?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the responses.

Saw this chart, details all the changes in the Model 64.

• 64 (1970): Introduction with tapered barrel in 4" barrel length.
• 64-1 (1972): 4" Heavy barrel introduction, made for Oklahoma Highway Patrol, chambered in .357 Magnum; later became the M-65.
• 1973: Heavy barrel only.
• 64-2 (1977): Change to put the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder on 2" tapered barrel versions.
• 64-3 (1977): Change to put the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder on heavy barrel versions.
• 1982: Delete pinned barrels.
• 64-4 (1988): New yoke retention system/radius stud package/hammer nose bushing/ floating hand/on 2" tapered barrel version.
• 64-5 (1988): New yoke retention system on heavy barrel 3" and 4"/hammer nose bushing/floating hand.
• 1991: 3" heavy barrel became standard production.
• 1994: Change star extractor, change to synthetic grips.
• 1995-96: Delete square butt model.
• 1996: Begin shipments in blue plastic cases.
• Begin serrated backstrap and forestrap on a round butt frame for about 18 months, then discontinued.
• 1997: Change thumbpiece/ship with Master trigger lock/change to MIM trigger.
• 64-6 (1998): Change frame design: eliminate cylinder stop stud/change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin/change internal lockwork.
• 2001: Ship with fired case.
• 64-7 (2002): Introduce internal key lock system.
• 64-8 (2004): New two-piece barrel design.

Supica, Jim; Nahas, Richard (2006-12-20). Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 3rd (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson) (p. 212). F+W Media, Inc.. Kindle Edition.

gotboostvr said:

While it's possible if someone was running hot 38/44's or SuperVel ammo through it, it's HIGHLY unlikely for a K Frame 38 to bust its forcing cone.

I don't think the 64's ever came enough a two piece barrel either.

Barrel/cylinder gap is a bit subjective for what you "want" too tight can cause binding though. I've always just measured it with my MkI eyeball.

Click to expand...

From what I've read and according to the above chart, 64-8 came with a 2 piece barrel.

Picked it up today, inspected it thoroughly based on what I've read, pretty nice shape. It came with original wood grips, the gun itself is cosmetically very nice, i.e., no nicks, gouges, nicely polished. The ad said it was from a foreign department, I was dreading import marks, but it turned out it was from a domestic force, so no marks, great.

15 minutes later I was at the local range. In SA at 15' a 1" group wasn't difficult to obtain if I was careful, maybe another 1/2" DA. The problem is my eyes, not the gun, can't keep the focus for too long.

25' opened it up a little but not bad. I went through a box of standard loads, and a 1/2 box of +P, gun got hot, but no problems in operation. It's heavy enough that +P ammo made little difference. I remember how a box of +P ammo through a Chief Spl. at a re-qual was not fun.

All in all, very happy with the purchase. Next is to remove the side plate by tapping, spray the insides down with brake cleaner, and lightly oil it.

When my agency transitioned to Glocks, we were one of the last in NYC to do so, had a hell of a time trying to sell off my revolvers, a model 10 and a Chief. No civilian market to speak of, finally sold them both to a probation officer for $25 each. Paid quite a bit more than that for this one, but you just can't beat an old S&W for the smoothness, single and double action. In retrospect it would have been nice to have kept my old guns, but my agency wouldn't give you the "good guy letter" you needed to get a carry permit in NYC unless you retired with only one handgun.

NYPD was great, they issued me an unrestricted carry permit in one day while I waited. Walked in, filled out the application, and was out in 2 hours with the permit.

I've read a few threads on cleaning the insides, like anything else, many opinions. Generally, all agree to remove stocks and anything plastic. Non chlorinated brake cleaner, if used with caution, i.e., hand protection, use outdoors, avoid breathing, should be fine. While not the same chemicals, it seems to be the equivalent of Gun Scrubber in effectiveness. Immediate lubrication, since it totally de-greases, is necessary to avoid rust.

As far as which lube, I have both Mobil 1 and some other light oils, a little in the right places, I assume, will be fine.

I opened the side plate by tapping with a wooden handle, clean and wet looking, so I won't be doing anything. Bid on a nice used holster from Ebay a few days ago in anticipation, got it, arrived this afternoon. Not bad for $10, plus $4 delivery, always tricky to find something left handed.

Some nicer grips may be next.

Thanks for the comments about the holster. No maker's logo on it, a few of the stitches look as if they were done by hand. The seam has a thick piece inside of it, looks like it adds rigidity.

Noticed when shooting yesterday it was sometimes hard to find the stainless front sight, depending on the target background color. So went over it today with a red china marker, lights up nicely now.

I know an old used revolver is not the most exciting thing, but I'm enjoying it as pure nostalgia. The fact that it shoots well is most definitely a plus.