First time reloading, Primer went off in the press

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BMood

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Hi everyone, so I just started reloading and after working some brass I tried to seat a few primers tonight. It was my first time, and honestly I think I made a mess of things... I’m using a Lee breach lock challenger and I was priming on the ram. I have once fired (by me) federal .223 brass and I’m using Remington #7.5 small rifle bench rest primers, and I had cleaned out all the primer pockets with a lee primer pocket tool.

All the primers seem like they’re a little too hard to press in, but being new I don’t really have anything to compare it to so I could be wrong. I was getting very erratic seatings, some to high, some that look to be in to far, and even some that look smooshed a little or cockeyed. I’m sure a huge part is user error and me needing to get familiar with the feel of the press but what really concerned me was when one went off.

It felt tough like I was forcing it a bit and then it just went bang, there was no indentation on the primer but after trying a few more and paying very close attention (and putting in ear plugs) I noticed tiny slivers of brass lodged into the primer cup holder after several of the rounds that I cleaned out each time. My thought is that one of these slivers acted as a firing pin, but my big question is what’s causing them? And why are these primers so hard to seat correctly?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice, I don’t know anyone personally who reloads to ask and teaching myself is proving to be a little daunting... especially after a primer went off on my first try, my wife ran down saying “throw it all out and get a new hobby!”

Image is of the primer cup and one of the tiny slivers of brass I found in it.
 

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It's very rare a primer will go off without being struck. Additionally, the anvil usually needs to be seated into the primer compound.

It sounds like your your brass has staked or crimped primer pockets. If so you will need to remove the obstruction before you can prime the cases. If you can post a pic of 2 of the primer pockets from the bottom of the cases maybe we can tell you.

Welcome to the forum and reloading.
 
He wrote Federal .223 brass, but I also suspect the primer pockets need to be swaged because they're likely crimped. Federal does do that on some loads. For the OP, this is a feature unique to cartridges that are processed in a way that's expected for military use. I don't know if it's for fully automatic carbines, rifles and machine guns or just to accommodate excess headspace. Either way, the primers are staked or crimped in to prevent them from coming loose when firing and interrupting the string of fire by jamming the feeding mechanism or not firing. You could post a picture of the primer pocket to confirm. My suggestion is to get some new uncrimped brass. Later, if you decide it's worth it, you can buy the tools and futz around swaging the crimped brass.
 
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Thanks everyone for the quick responses, I attached a picture of the box the ammo came from, the primer, and the primer pockets. I don’t know if it makes a difference but the primers came out no problem with my resizing and decapping die, also most of this ammo came from my brothers police department.. be a shame if it’s not good to reload since there’s so much of it.
 

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Some Fed .223 stamped ammo is definitely crimped...pretty sure I can see the extra ring of the annular crimp around your primer in the 3rd photo. It can be swaged out, even a couple of twists with a chamfer tool will usually take care of it and help your new primers to center in correctly. I've never noticed much difference while depriming crimped brass vs uncrimped so that isn't a good indicator IMO. You'll only need to do it once per piece. If you don't see that extra ring (some brands use 3 or 4 stab instead of an annular ring crimp) it doesn't need done at all but if repriming is tough that's probably the reason. you dont need to cut out the whole crimp ring, just basically break the lip plus a tiny bit more
 
Welcome to THR.

The indent ring around the primer is definitely crimped primer pocket.

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Here's FC brass showing lightly crimped primer pocket and crimp cut with Lee chamfer tool. (You can also use countersink drill bit) I now use C-H primer pocket swage tool to remove the military crimp on .223/5.56/7.62x51 NATO brass - http://www.ch4d.com/products/equipment/case-tools/psk

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And seated with new primer

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Yep, that brass definitely looks crimped to me! The ring of brass around the primer pocket is usually crimped after the primer has been inserted at the factory. While this makes a nice seal, it makes seating the primer on the next reload near impossible (as you've found out).

You will have to remove this crimp but you only have to do it once. You can either trim it using a primer pocket chamfer tool or you can swage them out using a die. If you have a lot of this brass and wish to load it you might want to invest in the RCBS swage tool as chamfering by hand can be a pita.
 
I have some ammo just like that. Same brand ,same bullet. As everyone previously has said the primers are definitely crimped. Good brass, so if you have a bunch, worth investing in a swage or ream . I use a ream that is so old I don't remember where I purchased it or who made it.
 
Yes, those are crimped, and you'll need to spend a few minutes cutting the crimp out; use an inside chamfer tool to start, since you probably already have one.

Regarding the detonation. . . you might consider a lottery ticket. It is VERY rare to detonate a primer on press, and even rarer while seating. Usually it's the primer feed mechanism on a progressive that crushes them just right. Don't be driven off by it, it will likely never happen again.

Also, add your location to your profile. Someone here might live down the street and could share their experience.
 
I cringe reading OPs account as I almost had this happen when I was new.
I wish there was a way to let newbies know that popular calibers may be crimped or not.
Better yet, I wish the industry would clearly mark crimped primers.

As that’s not likely I guess this is just a reminder to be safe and when in doubt presume brass is crimped if you’re not sure.

As for OP I’ve not had good luck with a reamer. I have the RCBS swagging tool and it’s ok. It’s slow and a pain, frankly I’d save a few bucks and get the Dillion tool. In fact it’s on my list as the next reloading tool I get. Then I’ll probably modify it with the spring hack so the process speeds up. Sorry I don’t recall where I saw it but a search should be easy enough to find the hack.
 
The indent ring around the primer is definitely crimped primer pocket.

Here's FC brass showing lightly crimped primer pocket and crimp cut with Lee chamfer tool. (You can also use countersink drill bit) I now use C-H primer pocket swage tool to remove the military crimp on .223/5.56/7.62x51 NATO brass - http://www.ch4d.com/products/equipment/case-tools/psk

Welcome to THR. There is some great advice here and I agree that the problem has been correctly identified. While primer detonation is not unheard of, it is a very rare event. It's never happened to me in decades of reloading. Easy does it. Primers are tiny explosive charges. Treat them accordingly.

I also use the CH4D tool for pocket swage. This tool is easy to use and well made. Take a look at this video.



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I agree crimped primer pockets. I use rcbs chamfer tool it's a slow process but worth the time and effort. I've been reloading for almost 40 years and never had a primer detonate on the press.

I'm glad you are OK and welcome to the forum.
 
I think you know the answer to your question.....but I want to add one thing as you say you are new....and it does not look like you have a friend close by that can lay eyes on this that actually knows what he is doing (more on that later)

I would say as a general rule if it feels not quite right....it ain't right. I am sitting here at work trying to think of something that was setup correctly and thinking wow....that took a lot of force to do X. And I am not coming up with one. You had an idea things just did not pass the smell test....and your hunch was correct.

I have always said reloading is pretty darn easy....you are not sending a rover to mars or something....it will give you clues.....and in this case it did.

As to trusting your friends (or any idiot on the internet especially this idiot) take everything with a grain of salt....use is as a resource, and check it against other resources....books, videos, other posters and forums. You are basically building little bombs designed to be contained inside of a special machine built to hold a little bomb of X pressure.....we all know that errors happen and we have all seen blown up gunz.

As to friends that are into this....see what they do....if everything they load is at the top end of things.....to ME that is a red flag. There are not many cases (again IMHO) where loading to 10/10 is something that actually helps you achieve your end goal.....whatever that goal is.

And keep in mind this entire post is written by just another idiot on the internet.
 
There's a lot of non-crimped brass out there... but if you take care of removing the crimp on this set of brass, you won't have to do it again and it will be good for more loadings. Hope you find it "smoother going" from now on!
Be sure to ask if you have more questions!
 
I was getting very erratic seatings, some to high, some that look to be in to far, and even some that look smooshed a little or cockeyed. I’m sure a huge part is user error and me needing to get familiar with the feel of the press but what really concerned me was when one went off.

Properly seated the primer will be below flush.

There are two basic methods of removing the crimp in the primer pocket. The first is as others have mentioned is to swage it. This doesn't remove any material just displaces it. It is headstamp friendly though.

The second method is to ream the crimp out. You can do this using your chamfer tool or you can buy a tool designed to do this.

Some of the swage tools are somewhat expensive. For now just use your chamfer tool. If you keep at it (handloading) then at some point you will want one of those brass processing centers which you can install a pocket cutter and/or primer pocket uniformer tool head. You will also prolly want to get a flash hole de-burring tool. And you thought handloading would save you money!!!
 
It felt tough like I was forcing it ...

Treat reloading like a woman, forcing things are never going to end up well for you. If something doesn’t feel right, it’s generally because something is wrong. Lessons I had to learn the hard way too, likely a few others here as well.

As above, crimped pockets cut or swage them out.

Bds photo are what cut it ones look like. The one on the left below looked like the one on the right before being swaged.
AF949027-D7C3-4BF1-A140-FF5BFEEE241E.jpeg
 
So here is a link to get you started on finding a primer pocket swager. This is just a quick search so you know what you're looking for. Please check other places for prices and option. I tend to use the RCBS set and like it. Mighty Armory has a swager I really like, little more expensive but works really well. If you plan on doing a lot of reloading something like a bench mounted swager works well for high volume. RCBS, Frankford Arsenal and Dillon all make one. I'm sure there are other brands out there who make them. Take a look and see what will work for you and how much you want to pay. Good luck and welcome to a very addicting hobby!

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=Primer+Pocket+Swager&uac=true&userItemsPerPage=48

https://www.mightyarmory.com/collec...-swage-kit-fits-press-ram-diameters-3-4-1-1-8
 
There are a number of ways to do it. The fastest way I have is the swager on the 1050 because there is no extra time involved, it’s done automatically as part of the loading cycle.

I have other swaging devices like the RCBS and Dillon super swage. Hand cutters that will work with a couple of twists and even 1/4” hex ones that will fit in power tools.

2C1727FA-FB0F-4EE9-BED8-1714D35E0235.jpeg

Lots of choice out there because that’s not even a complete list of them. I have even used a pocket knife in a pinch.
 
Wow, I can’t thank you guys enough. Like I said, this being my first batch I ever tried to reload I had no idea how it was suppose to feel setting a primer in. I wasn’t sure if it was all me, my equipment, or the brass, and I was somewhat dismayed. I’m very relieved to find out what my problem was. I just compared that Federal brass to some other stuff I have on hand and I can definitely see the difference and that extra little ring in the primer pocket. I just set a primer into a PMC .223 and it went right in to a perfect .003 below flush with what felt like an appropriate amount of force.
I’m still a little nervous after that bang, (luckily I was wearing safety glasses) but I’ve always been one to learn some lessons the hard way and I can tell you I’ll never make the mistake of forcing a primer in when it doesn’t feel right ever again.
I’ll be putting this brass to the side for now and probably invest in a swage tool and come back to it later.
Thanks again, I read some manuals cover to cover and watched countless videos, but being able to ask experienced loaders direct questions already seems an invaluable tool, I really appreciate it.
 
Since you are a new reloader, removing the crimp on the Federal brass will be a good exercise, BUT...

I'll bet the primer pockets will become loose after a few loadings. Removing the crimps is alot of work for only a couple of uses. I think that the web portion of the case is thinner than normal on commercial Federal .223 brass, and is the reason the pockets become loose so soon.

The web thickness can be easily compared with a known good case, such as a Lake City. I used a cleaning rod with out a jag attached and a fine tip sharpie. Assuming your other case is trimmed to the same length as the Federal, insert the rod to the bottom of the case and mark the rod at the mouth with the sharpie on both cases. The difference is visible to the naked eye. I think its about 0.015".

I just scrapped about 200 beautiful once fired Federal .223 Rem headstamped cases that were crimped for that reason. I've been burnt before and didn't want to waste my time for only a few loadings. Crimped Lake City is another story, definitely worth the time investment to remove crimps.
 
I'm glad you found the problem and glad I was able to set you on the right path early on in this thread. No one can blame you for not knowing about crimped primers since you are brand new to reloading.

You will be fine, relax and carry on lol.
 
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