Short Barrel 7x57

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How did it get that way?
Real Mauser carbine?
Cut down Mauser rifle?
Nice Mauser sporter?
Not a Mauser?

Short barrel will be louder and slower. Not enough to matter on a hunting rifle, or if banging away with an original carbine.
 
It is cheap.
And other than the short barrel it is nice.

I’ve thought of barreling before. Is that something a reasonably mechanical guy could do without too much investment in tools?

Greg
Ya short chambered barrels are easy to do. The big thing is the barrel vise and the barrel winch. Then just rent the reamer and gauges. There about $40.
 
I've got a 7x57 with a 20" barrel and it's currently my go-to rifle for any game larger than coyotes. (Once elk get involved, I'd probably take one of my 30-06s.) It's a Dominican Republic carbine that was originally a Brazilian 1908 (if my historical recollectification is correct). Lost velocity. That's probably the only handicap that you will really have as long as everything else checks all the boxes. I picked up mine as a donor since it was already D&T'd, aftermarket trigger, good stock, forged bolt (to clear the scope), etc. I made the mistake of shooting it before rebarreling it. I just threw a cheap scope on it and it shot great. It may still get a new barrel at some point, but not for a while.

Summary: If you plan on rebarrelling it, don't shoot it first. :D

Matt
 
I dislike anything besides a .22 or PCC with a barrel shorter than about 20"s, but functionally and 18.5 7x57 should be fine.

It is cheap.
And other than the short barrel it is nice.

I’ve thought of barreling before. Is that something a reasonably mechanical guy could do without too much investment in tools?

Greg
No.
Needs a barrel vise, action wrench, chamber reamer, headspace gauge.
If you dont really WANT to do the work yourself i think having it done by a smith, or even decent machine shop, is a better option.

I do quite a bit of garage gunsmithing.
I built a bench barrel/action vice, swaping out teak blocks allows me to adjust for what ever action im currently working with. If its one i dont have i just cut up a new set of blocks. Teaks sticky, and ive yet to have a receiver besides my Abolt (which has relatively little surface area) spin. Ive also used a big 8" vice with the same blocks clamped in it at work.
I normally use a pair of big pipe wrenches to remove barrels, as I have no intention of reinstalling them. when set with handles opposite each other ive had much less issue torquing barrels free than using an actual action wrench. If I cant get a barrel to pop using what i consider reasonable effort it gets wacked with a small sledge, if that fails then Ive made a relief cut. So far havent had any issues, or failures, in the 1/2 dozen guns Ive done.

I order threaded, profiled, and short chambered barrels. My go to is ERshaw, with the cost being about 200-240 for a basic barrel blued or stainless.
Installation is usually done with rented tools, and gauges from 4d reamer rentals. tho Ive fudged a couple using resized cases as go gauges, borrowed reamers, and a strap wrench to torque the tube.
The tools youll need to do the job properly, IF you already own something you can use as a barrel vice, are the correct action wrench, headspace gauges, finish reamer and T-handle. youll also want a good cutting oil.

Ive had nothing but good results with what Ive done SO FAR. This dosent mean that I wont screw something up eventually, or that I think the 175 bucks or so having a barrel properly installed isnt worth the cash. I really LIKE doing this stuff myself, and fine precision isnt necessary for what I want from the guns Ive built.
 
So,
I’m calling the barrel 18.5”. But when I talked to the FFL there she said, no you measure all the way back to the opening of the action. ??? Is that true? Then it is a 20.5” barrel. But when I looked into it where the rifling actually begins it is more like 17.75 or 17.5.
Now, if that’s correct (and I suspect the FFL is correct on this one), then the actual tube at any measurement is going to be shorter and what the DROS says is just nominal. I’m going to have to start rethinking. That makes this rifle all the more attractive. So... from what point do you start measuring?

Also, the bolt is pretty sticky. But I’m guessing that is because it hasn’t been cleaned/ oiled in a while.

What think you?

Greg
 
I measure barrels from the bolt face to muzzle, which usually means sticking something down the tube.
You can also just measure back to the end of the receiver and add shank length. Im pretty sure mauser shanks are about .75" long or so, but Ive never actually pulled one, and only handled a barrel for a min.

Sticky bolt is most likely cruddy, especially if its sticky but not gritty.
 
So,
I’m calling the barrel 18.5”. But when I talked to the FFL there she said, no you measure all the way back to the opening of the action. ??? Is that true? Then it is a 20.5” barrel. But when I looked into it where the rifling actually begins it is more like 17.75 or 17.5.
Now, if that’s correct (and I suspect the FFL is correct on this one), then the actual tube at any measurement is going to be shorter and what the DROS says is just nominal. I’m going to have to start rethinking. That makes this rifle all the more attractive. So... from what point do you start measuring?

Also, the bolt is pretty sticky. But I’m guessing that is because it hasn’t been cleaned/ oiled in a while.

What think you?

Greg

What @LoonWulf said. Barrel length is boltface to muzzle, at least according to the ATF. If that's what you have (20.5"), it's pretty close to mine barrel-wise and you would be good enough for me.

Do you happen to have any pictures?

Matt
 
My $.02: if the price is right, the bore looks good, the action cleans up and you can live with the looks, I guess it would depend on whether you have a special use in mind. If you just want another rifle that strikes your fancy, why not?

If full military loads seem overmuch from the shorter barrel you could consider handloading it a bit lighter, assuming you're not hunting elephants à la W D M Bell.
 
At my LGS there is an 18.5” barreled 7x57.

Other than that it is a nice rifle with nice rifling.

Is that going to be a handicap to have the barrel so short?

I will pull the trigger on this if you all think it is ok...


Greg

Unless you are wedded to the .308 case?

The 7x57, even from a 20.5" Bbl., is a meat-gitter.




GR
 
I have killed most I my deer with a 7x57 built by my grandfather. It has a 22" barrel. The last few years I have used the 7-08 with an 18.5" barrel. A remington model 7. It is light weight and handy. I love it. So far it has killed 6 deer total and none have ran more than 40 yards after being hit. And most were shot with a reduced load with a 120gr Sierra bullet for a youth hunt and a small girl.

I bet you will like that rifle just the way it is. Matter of fact if its anywhere near the Ft Worth Tx area let me know where and I will go by and look it over for you to see if its a good deal. Maybe it will still be there when you go back.:D
 
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