Taurus 94 - 22lr thoughts

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The trigger was pretty stiff on my LCRx 22lr. That's probably why I shot it so poorly. IIRC, a friend also shot it some and didn't fare so well, either. Perhaps I just got a bad specimen. I like my LCR 38 special very much.
 
I find single actions easier to cock the hammer and fire.

I used to compete in Bullseye shoots for many years and I've never found any sa revolver nearly as easy to cock with the thumb as Smith & Wesson Masterpiece and Colt Officer's Match da target revolvers are. We're all built differently, I suppose.
 
The 317 isn't easy to shoot good groups with either. I bought it as a pocket gun when fishing/hiking since having something along is better than nothing, but the light weight and stiff trigger make it harder to keep aligned on target than I thought it would.
 
I used to compete in Bullseye shoots for many years and I've never found any sa revolver nearly as easy to cock with the thumb as Smith & Wesson Masterpiece and Colt Officer's Match da target revolvers are. We're all built differently, I suppose.
Most people aren't willing to spend a grand on such revolvers, especially if they're .22
 
I must be strange because I shoot all my .22lr revolvers double action as much as single. My apparently gorilla like trigger finger has no problem with the DA trigger.

I am also willing to spend as much on a good .22lr as on any center fire. I like shooting high quality .22s. Pistols and rifles.
 
I could never understand the idea that a .22lr isnt a "real gun", and therefore should cost much less than any center-fire caliber gun. In fact the single most expensive handgun I own is a .22lr. People who adhere to this idea are missing out on some great accurate firearms that are fun and inexpensive to shoot a lot. Great .22s are worth the extra money because you will shoot them more than your center-fire guns for practice.
 
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Great .22s are worth the extra money because you will shoot them more than your center-fire guns for practice.

So very true. I've never understood the refrain, "It's only a .22." As you said, some of the finest handguns and rifles ever made are chambered in .22 rimfire; they are very capable small game takers and target punchers and you can afford to shoot them to boot.
 
That old it might be o.k. late 94s are uniformly heavy pull, poorly timed and one of our most returned handguns. Clock it very slowly and watch the lockup. Check sa pull. Most of the late ones are not good. Too bad, cause they look like my 34 and 63 which are flawless. I have had a dozen small frame Taurii and they are running 50-50 on acceptability.
 
I have the snubby version. It's never given me any trouble and once the sights are adjusted quite accurate. SA is much smoother than DA but that being said after a couple hundred rounds the DA has smoothed out quite a bit. As others said it does have some sharp edges on it and keep it clean or it will rust. Price of the one your looking at seems a little high.
v-fib
 
I have read many complaints about DA Trigger pulls being too heavy. I did a write-up about my fix on another forum, and thought I'd share it here with others that might like to save their revolvers, if they still have them.
After about 4 years of sitting in a drawer, I've finally got my Taurus 94 to an almost S&W feel. But it took a lot of work.
About the DA trigger pull: the Wolff Springs DO lighten the pull, but do not offer consistently reliable ignition. Ideas of swapping for a steel hammer, or inserting a lead slug into the stock hammer have run thru my mind. But after really digging into this revolver, I've come to the conclusion that the stock spring is actually just fine. Probably perfect.
The Fix: SMOOTH AND POLISH MOVING PARTS! That includes everything involved in the reciprocation of the cylinder: the extractor rod, the center pin, cylinder bushing face, crane spindle, and the face of the ratchet (the "Star") that comes into contact with the recoil shield. CYMERA_20201221_013320.jpg CYMERA_20201221_012810.jpg Polishing the entire extractor rod also makes ejecting spent casings smoother, easier. Heck, I even polished under the cylinder release thumb button. Smoooth cylinder swing-outs.
Looking under the sideplate, you may notice wear marks, scuffing, and scratches. Each of those are friction areas. I hand-polished with a stone, both sides of the hammer and trigger, and the side of the arm that rubs the sideplate. I polished the transfer bar front and back, as well as the left side that rubs against the sideplate and bolt. The bolt itself rubs against the left sideplate, the trigger, and transfer bar. CYMERA_20201221_010229.jpg Polish those areas too. You can place the Hand Pin (as well as the Extractor Rod and Cylinder Pin) in a drill chuck and spin it to polish it faster. I also smoothed out the machining marks of the inside of the right sideplate. The only thing that should be done to the Main Spring, is polishing the Mainspring Center Pin where it rides the Mainspring Plate (or Bushing). CYMERA_20210110_061809.jpg
Polishing all of these areas combined will DRASTICALLY reduce the friction of the entire clockwork, and your DA pull will become immensely easier! Just imagine, glass on glass is smooth, add lubrication and its slippery as ice!
Insanely hard, grindy DA trigger pull: no more!

Smooth your DA pull even MORE by stoning trigger surfaces WITHOUT touching trigger to sear contact surfaces :


My 94 would also bind up easily. I had to hand-rasp the the recoil shield, and cylinder face because they were out of square. My cylinder would also bind because there was too much wobble. The cylinder bushing spins freely between the cylinder and the crane, which creates TWO gaps that introduce wobble. I actually inserted a thin slice of soda can between the cylinder and bushing, so they are now one. No movement. The bushing still spins freely on the crane, wobble now cut in half.
It seems my revolver was made of good parts, but was handed to a child to assemble, and then there was no fit & finish QC afterwards. More fairly, I believe what is happening is certain steps are being skipped, on purpose, which is how Taurus is able to achieve their price point. If S&W, Colt, and Ruger build a revolver in 10 steps, Taurus does it in 8. They just skip the step where they clean up the individual parts before placing them within the frame.
This Taurus 94 is my first revolver, and it's teaching me a ton. With minimal tools and a McGyver-like engineering mindset, these things aren't a waste of money, but more like a premature baby that needs extra love and attention. There are many friction areas that need polishing, but each are small, and can all be done in one calm, peaceful evening.
What else...
If you have sticky cylinders, put an oiled brass .22 bore brush in a drill chuck and spin it inside each chamber. It'll really scrape that sucker clean!
If you lose the yoke screw, Midway has an S&W yoke screw that works, for cheap!
Looking for a 4" holster? Taurus small frames are closer in size to the Ruger SP101 than S&W j-frames ;) CYMERA_20201230_155452.jpg
 
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I have a 4" blued 94 that I bought along about 93 or 94 so it should be pretty close to the age of the OPs revolver.

Mine doesn't bind as some do, but I've put enough rounds through it over the years that it's worn in a bit. Like everyone else it has the stiff double action trigger pull which annoys me because I bought it as a training gun for teaching new shooters, but it's actually easier to have them use a centerfire revolver with light loads. If I need my best accuracy I shoot it single action. Painted the front sight to make it easier to see.

I'd love to find a rear sight blade for mine as the original got mashed a bit on the left sight in a range accident years ago.

When I get finished polishing the trigger work on some Ruger revolvers I'm going to try what Capt. Killingfield suggests and polish the trigger and lockwork on the 94. I looked into changing the springs, but everyone I asked said it was not a good idea so polishing it is. Would really like to get it more new shooter friendly. It's a good little kit gun for things that can be handled with a 22lr.
 
....I'd love to find a rear sight blade for mine as the original got mashed a bit on the left sight in a range accident years ago.

When I get finished polishing the trigger work on some Ruger revolvers I'm going to try what Capt. Killingfield suggests and polish the trigger and lockwork on the 94. I looked into changing the springs, but everyone I asked said it was not a good idea so polishing it is.

Here's a thread on a hopefully easy fix:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/handguns/-/26-156887/?

And a link to the part:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004316560
Maybe with some filing you can get it to work?
If you do the polishing treatment on your 94, please let us know the results. We might just be on to something here
 
An old model 4" bought for me by Wife when we were poor. I meant to trade it off but found it always worked and I could hit what I aimed at. That was thirty years ago and no breakdown of parts. B Taurus.jpg
 


here’s my 2013 vintage 94 with the following trigger job.

Finally found the right combo of springs for my Taurus 94 revolvers. wolff 6.5 lb trigger return spring for model 85 and wolff 12 lb hammer spring for model 66 (cut to stock length). This gives approx 9 lb double action pull and a beautiful 2.25 lb single action pull, all with positive ignition using cci,agila,federal,remington, and armscor ammo.

no FTF on any ammon DA or SA. Tight lockup.
 
Have a stainless snubby 94, a decent knock around gun for in the woods. You'll have a lot of shooting to do to break one.
 
I had a 94 for awhile, kept it, but the DA trigger pull was VERY stiff. I tried out a new 942 snubby at the LGS, nice trigger, nice gun. I sold the 94 and bought a 942.
 
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