whats the best/most popular trigger/hammer spring kits for Ruger SRH 44 mag?

As no one has replied to this yet, I'll share my experience.

I've tried reduced weight trigger springs on a few revolvers, and I don't like them. I prefer the trigger return to be snappy. For hammer springs I've used Wolff in a BH and a SBH. Though, I did notice in the SBH that the lighter spring did increase the feel of creep in the trigger, so I put the original back in. I don't like the idea of altering the sears myself, and the original spring made the creep much less noticable.

I've also read somewhere that a lighter hammer spring can increase 'lock time'. As I understand it, that's the time between the sear disengaging and the hammer hitting the firing pin. It might not be anything you care about, but I can see where some would.

There are some good videos on kitchen table action jobs for Ruger revolver available on YouTube. After all the tinkering I've done with my various Rugers, I'd start with that before you experiment with springs. But as it's natural to be curious about how light and smooth you can get a gun, look at the Wolff spring kits. Wilson Combat may also offer something for Ruger SAs (I'm pretty sure some of my GP100s have Wilson springs in them now).

Best of luck to you.

There are not that many spring kits that I know of. Wolff offers springs separately or in kits as does M-Carbo and Wilson. At one time there were Bullseye spring kits. I have used Wolff's in all my Rugers and have been happy with the result. As noted above reducing the mainspring weight will increase lock time. If this is a concern the hammer can be lightened (but not easily due to its hardness). Reducing the trigger spring weight can lead to sluggish trigger return or failure to reset. This can be remedied in part by cleaing out the spring channel with a drill bit and a bit of polishing. If you use Winchester they do not have a large magnum pistol primer. Federals are more sensitive so if your SRH works with Winchester it should with Federal. However, in lightening the mainspring you cannot go so light if you plan on using CCI. If you plan on doing some polishing inside as noted do the spring channel in the trigger guard and the hammer strut. Consider the use of shims (some come in the M-Carbo kit). Finally, if you get some failure-to-fires, it is possible to reduce the top hammer step where it contacts the frame somewhat to get more energy transfer to the firing pin by a max of .020". To increase firing pin protrusion, if necessary, one can get a Bowen extended firing pin if firing pin protrusion is inadequate (supposedly .055" is ideal but Ruger will not provide data so this is from some pistolsmiths). There are other things that can also be done but are more involved

One need not do all of the above but start small and work up over time. M-Carbo has a video showing the installation of springs and shims and some polishing work. There is a site:

https://www.sp101trigger.com/

detailing the inside work more. The SP is similar to the Super Redhawk except with the retention of the cylinder so what is shown can be done.