Ruger Security Six Issue

Status
Not open for further replies.

DerMerchant

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2019
Messages
191
Location
Texas
I recently purchased a ruger SS 6" blued from a pawn shop, date of manufacture 1975, with a chip on the front sight and moderate holster wear (it came with the holster, which is nice). The gun fires .38 special perfectly, but when I fire .357 through it (fiocchi 158 gr.) the cylinder and hammer seize up (was firing in single action) and the cylinder takes considerable more force then usual to open. I found another forum post which appears to have a solution to my problem, so I ordered a center pin spring. I cannot unscrew the extractor rod myself without marring it up, and will probably have a gunsmith replace it.
I came here to get a second opinion. Picture of the gun included.

Forum post: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=148331&sid=92ba2782465215232562ff75f850785d
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190614_135035 - Copy.jpg
    IMG_20190614_135035 - Copy.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 46
My first thought is crud/lead in the cyl. from .38 Spl. loads.
Put a .40 caliber brush on a short cleaning rod in your cordless drill, with Hoppes, and "Go to Town" on all cyl holes==Forward and Reverse.

If you reload, you can flare out a spent .357 case, sharpen outer edge of case mouth, and use that for a "Crud Cutter". I have several of these made myself..Bill.

PS: Remember that the Ruger rod does NOT unscrew like S&W revolvers do...
 
Welcome to THR.
I'm with billybob on this one. That lead ring is probably causing the spent case to stick out the back of the cylinder and hang up on the frame and recoil shield.
 
"Mother's" metal cleaner will remove the crud in your cylinder. The extractor rod is a left hand thread.
 
My first thought is crud/lead in the cyl. from .38 Spl. loads.
Put a .40 caliber brush on a short cleaning rod in your cordless drill, with Hoppes, and "Go to Town" on all cyl holes==Forward and Reverse.

If you reload, you can flare out a spent .357 case, sharpen outer edge of case mouth, and use that for a "Crud Cutter". I have several of these made myself..Bill.

PS: Remember that the Ruger rod does NOT unscrew like S&W revolvers do...
The Sec.6 rod does unscrew, you're probably thinking of the GP and SP which do not.
 
My first thought is crud/lead in the cyl. from .38 Spl. loads.
Put a .40 caliber brush on a short cleaning rod in your cordless drill, with Hoppes, and "Go to Town" on all cyl holes==Forward and Reverse.

If you reload, you can flare out a spent .357 case, sharpen outer edge of case mouth, and use that for a "Crud Cutter". I have several of these made myself..Bill.

PS: Remember that the Ruger rod does NOT unscrew like S&W revolvers do...
I'll try it with a .40 cal brass brush like you said. I also forgot to mention that I found a piece of copper jacket between the crane and the frame that was apparently shaved off of one of the rounds, not sure if it's from .38 or .357, or how it got there.
The Sec.6 rod does unscrew, you're probably thinking of the GP and SP which do not.
I read that it unscrews, but I cannot apply enough force to unscrew it, even with multiple layers of thick fabric and a pair of pliers. I don't want to mar the rod, even though the firearm isn't in pristine condition.
 
I'll try it with a .40 cal brass brush like you said. I also forgot to mention that I found a piece of copper jacket between the crane and the frame that was apparently shaved off of one of the rounds, not sure if it's from .38 or .357, or how it got there.

I read that it unscrews, but I cannot apply enough force to unscrew it, even with multiple layers of thick fabric and a pair of pliers. I don't want to mar the rod, even though the firearm isn't in pristine condition.
Try a little heat, it may have loctite in the threads....
 
I read that it unscrews, but I cannot apply enough force to unscrew it, even with multiple layers of thick fabric and a pair of pliers. I don't want to mar the rod, even though the firearm isn't in pristine condition.

Make sure you turn it counter clockwise.
 
Try a little heat, it may have loctite in the threads....
Just got the spring today, would you recommend a a torch for applying heat? Or could I just stick it in the oven at a low temp for a few minutes?
Slix makes a chamber scraper for removing .38 crud from .357 chambers that fits on your cleaning rod:

http://www.slixprings.com/slix-scraper.html
I'll keep it in mind, I may try hitting the cylinder with the drill and brush again.
 
The rod just doesn't want to come out, even after thoroughly heating with a torch. I even tried this method
"If cylinder/crane assembly must be taken down, clamp knurled head of ejector rod (25) between wood blocks in vise or locking jaw pliers. Insert empty cartridge cases in opposite chambers and unscrew cylinder, turning clockwise. (Assembly is secured with left-hand threads.) When cylinder is fully unscrewed, squeeze crane (28) and cylinder together and remove from ejector rod. All parts may then be separated."
I'll take it shooting tomorrow, if the thorough cleaning didn't solve the problem I'll take it to a gunsmith to have him replace the spring.
 
Just got the spring today, would you recommend a a torch for applying heat? Or could I just stick it in the oven at a low temp for a few minutes?

I'll keep it in mind, I may try hitting the cylinder with the drill and brush again.
No not a torch...
Touch a soldering gun tip to the screw head, this will localize the heat where you need it.
Can be done to any screw to soften any thread locking compound.
:D
 
Last edited:
My first thought is crud/lead in the cyl. from .38 Spl. loads.
Put a .40 caliber brush on a short cleaning rod in your cordless drill, with Hoppes, and "Go to Town" on all cyl holes==Forward and Reverse.

If you reload, you can flare out a spent .357 case, sharpen outer edge of case mouth, and use that for a "Crud Cutter". I have several of these made myself..Bill.

PS: Remember that the Ruger rod does NOT unscrew like S&W revolvers do...

I do that exact same thing. After it is clean then I wrap the 40 caliber brush with a soft cotton cloth, cover it with Flitz metal polish. Then go back in and smooth out the chambers.
It really helps with sticky extraction. Since the metal is smoother the cylinders clean up much better also.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top