Homemade Kydex Holsters?

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Axis II

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Anyone make their own Kydex Holsters? I picked up a 24x24 sheet to make a cheek riser for a rifle and figured I would try my hand at something like this in the link below. Any tips on how to make these, press, etc? I planned on using open back Chicago screws instead of rivets or eyelets. My buddy has made a few and says I should heat my pistol with a heat gun just a bit before laying the kydex over? I don't know how I feel about doing this with a plastic pistol (M&P full-size).

https://www.amazon.com/OWB-Holster-...kydex+holster&qid=1565571197&s=gateway&sr=8-6
 
I've made a couple. Never heated the pistol first but I could see how that would help it form better. The plastic that's used in handguns deforms at a lot higher temp than kydex so I wouldn't worry too much. Just don't sit there with a heat gun in one place for 20 minutes of course.
 
I've made a couple. Never heated the pistol first but I could see how that would help it form better. The plastic that's used in handguns deforms at a lot higher temp than kydex so I wouldn't worry too much. Just don't sit there with a heat gun in one place for 20 minutes of course.
Thanks! I am debating on getting a Blue Gun to use. I have buddies I can sell the holsters cheap to so the blue gun price will be paid off with a few holsters. I have an M&P, brother has one, GF now has one.
 
One of the holster manufacturers (philster / PhillyEDC I think) had a very good YouTube series on how to make a good kydex holster. He went into a lot of detail on time/temperature, tools used, etc. while you don't necessarily need all of the tools he uses, they do make it much easier and faster to make a holster.

For a press, I use a standard (basic) sandwich type press. I have a square piece of plywood (maybe about 18-20" per side) with a 2x4 across the middle, and foam underneath the plywood. Get good foam - it's not expensive and it works better than crappy foam pads. I use 2 clamps (more pressure is better, to a point) to hold the two sides of the press together.

I would highly recommend getting a dedicated molding prop instead of using a real gun. For one, there are places where you will want relief beyond what is on a standard gun or blue gun so that you don't have extra retention beyond what you need. For example, you don't want things like takedown levers, rail slots, and ejection ports to be holding the gun in the holster. If you use a regular gun or blue gun, you'll have to add in your own blocking to provide relief at these areas. A good molding prop should have these already built in. If you decide to use a (real) polymer gun, stick a magazine in the mag well (it will help support the grip). Between the heat and pressure involved in the press, it's not unusual to hear of polymer grips getting bent.

One of the best parts of making holsters is R&D of different designs to figure out what works best for you. Your largest raw material cost will likely be the belt attachments, but you can reuse those while you're learning. If you don't count your time or "machinery", your cost for each holster body will probably be something like $5, so keep trying different things. Find some holsters you like (that other companies are selling) and see if you can copy their design. Once you get good at making your own holsters, you'll never want to pay $100+ for a holster again.

One thing that I have found is adjustable retention holsters are easier (for me) to make than non-adjustable retention (especially for a taco style holster). Add a tad bit of extra blocking and then use some fuel line (from an auto parts store) to provide the outward pressure, and a screw to adjust tension. It's much easier to let the end user find the perfect retention, and it can be a selling point.
 
One of the holster manufacturers (philster / PhillyEDC I think) had a very good YouTube series on how to make a good kydex holster. He went into a lot of detail on time/temperature, tools used, etc. while you don't necessarily need all of the tools he uses, they do make it much easier and faster to make a holster.

For a press, I use a standard (basic) sandwich type press. I have a square piece of plywood (maybe about 18-20" per side) with a 2x4 across the middle, and foam underneath the plywood. Get good foam - it's not expensive and it works better than crappy foam pads. I use 2 clamps (more pressure is better, to a point) to hold the two sides of the press together.

I would highly recommend getting a dedicated molding prop instead of using a real gun. For one, there are places where you will want relief beyond what is on a standard gun or blue gun so that you don't have extra retention beyond what you need. For example, you don't want things like takedown levers, rail slots, and ejection ports to be holding the gun in the holster. If you use a regular gun or blue gun, you'll have to add in your own blocking to provide relief at these areas. A good molding prop should have these already built in. If you decide to use a (real) polymer gun, stick a magazine in the mag well (it will help support the grip). Between the heat and pressure involved in the press, it's not unusual to hear of polymer grips getting bent.

One of the best parts of making holsters is R&D of different designs to figure out what works best for you. Your largest raw material cost will likely be the belt attachments, but you can reuse those while you're learning. If you don't count your time or "machinery", your cost for each holster body will probably be something like $5, so keep trying different things. Find some holsters you like (that other companies are selling) and see if you can copy their design. Once you get good at making your own holsters, you'll never want to pay $100+ for a holster again.

One thing that I have found is adjustable retention holsters are easier (for me) to make than non-adjustable retention (especially for a taco style holster). Add a tad bit of extra blocking and then use some fuel line (from an auto parts store) to provide the outward pressure, and a screw to adjust tension. It's much easier to let the end user find the perfect retention, and it can be a selling point.
So if I’m not using a real gun or blue gun then what can I use? Where do I get a prop gun?
 
Have made several with very mediocre tools. Easy. Molding to your specific gun is not dangerous IME. Maybe I don't heat that much?

Agree that costs can be very low. I have very, very little hardware and traded it out when I made new holsters, for good idea fairies or because I broke one. Low cost means you can do stuff like get really thin holsters, and when it cracks just make another, bolt together, wear it. No worries.
 
So if I’m not using a real gun or blue gun then what can I use? Where do I get a prop gun?

There are several places where you can find them. Here's one example.

https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/cooks-molds-holster-molding-prop-for-compact-4in-prepped-p-13171.html

Take a look around the site (it has many more prop guns as well as a lot of other holster making supplies). Pay attention to the blocking on some of the molds. The one I linked has blocking for the trigger guard (which makes it easier to get the right amount of tension on the gun) as well as blocking for the sight channel and the location of the safety lever. If you get an unblocked version, you'll have more freeeom to design how the holster works, but you'll still have to do things like the sight channel and taping the trigger guard.

I would personally add some more blocking to the mold prop I linked to (easy to do with things like popsicle sticks or small pieces of wood), but i like a lot of definition in my holsters. If you go for less definition, you may not need quite as much blocking on things like the levers.

You can get a pretty good idea of how the gun will fit after you remove it from the press but before you make too many cuts. If you don't like the fit, throw the kydex back in the oven and make some changes to your blocking while the kydex softens up for round 2.
 
I've made a few, if you heat the Kydex in the oven, it's more uniform. It's not always easy to heat it with a heat gun and get it soft enough everywhere to mold properly. But if you take your time and work it as evenly as possible, you can get the basic form done the first time through, then tweek it using the heat gun on small areas that need tightening or modifying. There are lots of videos on YouTube. Like everything else on there, there are good videos and then there are some knuckleheads you need to ignore. For a one-off holster, I wouldn't go through all of the trouble to build frames and use a vacuum and all of that. I've got some leather pieces that I've added to the backs as a sweat shield, I add some glue, but also use the Chicago screws to hold everything. You can also buy some thin rubber gaskets at places like Lowes or Home Depot you can use inbetween the front and back pieces if you want a little tension that can be adjusted to your liking.
 
The nice thing about making your own stuff is hat you can make holsters or mag holders that may not be commercially available. Or that aren’t set up how you want. That’s means a blue gun or a mold likely isn’t available, so you will have to work with the real thing.

For example, I made some mag holders for an M11/9 mag designed to replicate a Soumi mag. Most M11/9 mags can go in an generic Uzi or M16/9mm mag holder. But these particular mags have a lug on the back that would hang up in a typical mag holder.

So I was able to build some and mold in a channel to clear the lug. They work great, and also work with the “standard” mags as well.

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I also made some USPSA-style mag holders for Desert Eagle mags. I added a thin block to the back side for clearance for the belt mounting hardware, so it wouldn’t scratch up the mags.

I just used foam floor matting, and it works pretty for a few molds. But they lose definition the more I use he same piece of foam. But then I bought some supposed “thermal forming” foam on Amazon, and it was less good. I’ll have to buy some good stuff at some point.

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The nice thing about making your own stuff is hat you can make holsters or mag holders that may not be commercially available. Or that aren’t set up how you want. That’s means a blue gun or a mold likely isn’t available, so you will have to work with the real thing.

For example, I made some mag holders for an M11/9 mag designed to replicate a Soumi mag. Most M11/9 mags can go in an generic Uzi or M16/9mm mag holder. But these particular mags have a lug on the back that would hang up in a typical mag holder.

So I was able to build some and mold in a channel to clear the lug. They work great, and also work with the “standard” mags as well.

View attachment 858708

I also made some USPSA-style mag holders for Desert Eagle mags. I added a thin block to the back side for clearance for the belt mounting hardware, so it wouldn’t scratch up the mags.

I just used foam floor matting, and it works pretty for a few molds. But they lose definition the more I use he same piece of foam. But then I bought some supposed “thermal forming” foam on Amazon, and it was less good. I’ll have to buy some good stuff at some point.

View attachment 858709
View attachment 858710
View attachment 858711
View attachment 858712
Find some of those yoga mat type seats in the hunting dept. I made two knife sheaths over the weekend and it formed them perfectly.
 
How do you pick up the kydex(i used gloves) without it flattening out between the fingers? (I use a toaster oven)
I don’t understand what you mean about it flattening between the fingers. I warm it up as flat piece in the oven at 300°F. Once it’s warm and flexible, I wrap it around the gun/mag/whatever and sandwich it between the layers of foam.

I just use leather gloves to handle it.
 
One other issue I had was I bought several sheets that were a little on the thin side. They molded well, but I left one side long so that I could bend it over, to make the clip all integral to the holster. It clips over my pants, behind my belt, and has a little lip that catches the underside of the belt. It's very compact, but the Kydex was thin enough that after a year or two, it started to crack at the bends for the clip. I eventually cut the clip part off, and added a commercial plastic clip I found for sale, just attached it to the side where the Chicago screws held the side together. Any future purchases will be for a little thicker sheet.
 
Anyone make their own Kydex Holsters? I picked up a 24x24 sheet to make a cheek riser for a rifle and figured I would try my hand at something like this in the link below. Any tips on how to make these, press, etc? I planned on using open back Chicago screws instead of rivets or eyelets. My buddy has made a few and says I should heat my pistol with a heat gun just a bit before laying the kydex over? I don't know how I feel about doing this with a plastic pistol (M&P full-size).

https://www.amazon.com/OWB-Holster-...kydex+holster&qid=1565571197&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Nice link thanks for sharing.:thumbup:
 
Is there a 1 stop shopping site for kydex and hardware? Never having done this before, what is the best size/thickness for a 19ll type pistol? Retention: how is it accomplished.

Process seems straight forward, normal hand eye coordination seems sufficient.
 
Is there a 1 stop shopping site for kydex and hardware? Never having done this before, what is the best size/thickness for a 19ll type pistol? Retention: how is it accomplished.

Process seems straight forward, normal hand eye coordination seems sufficient.

Knifekits.com has a pretty comprehensive selection of kydex, hardware, and molding tools. Between that site and a trip to Home Depot, you should be able to find everything you need.

I tend to prefer NSR Tactical for holster attachments, but knifekits has holster attachments that should be fine.

For the kydex, generally thinner kydex gives you much better definition and let’s the holster flex a little bit when you insert and remove the gun. Thicker kydex gives you less flex and definition, but is overall more durable. This gets into the ability to make things to your liking that aren’t necessarily available commercially. I don’t think there’s really a “best”, just different preferences. For holsters I tend to stay on the thinner side because I like the definition and flex (which combine to give you a really good snapping in feeling). I have not had any issues with durability after several years of daily carry.

With most kydex holsters, primary retention is on the trigger guard and is generally all you need. Sometimes you have secondary retention on some minor features like takedown levers. What you DON’T want is retention at places like the rail or the ejection port.

On a 1911 I would not have retention based on the safety. Having a point molded to keep the safety engaged while in the holster is probably a good idea, but I don’t like the idea of having the safety lever under tension when drawing the gun.

Using molding props really helps on this kind of stuff. It’s an easy way to make sure you have retention where you want it and blocking where you need it. You can use a real gun, but you have to block off those places that you don’t want molded into the holster (sight channels, relief for levers, etc).

Not really sure what you mean by hand eye coordination, but you’re right this stuff isn’t really rocket science. You can do a serviceable job with a Walmart oven, plywood/foam/clamp press, a $5 coping saw and some sand paper, but all the extra tools definitely make it easier and faster to make holsters.
 
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