newbie resizing woes

How are you lubing the cases? That looks like a dent from too much lube. Since lube is a liquid, it does not compress... and has nowhere to go in the size die... so it dimples the brass.

The difficulty pulling the case out of the size die is the expander ball being drug through the resized case neck... when you lube the cases, make sure you get a little lube inside the case neck, that will make it a little easier.

Your decap pin probably just pulled out... it's likely stuck in one of the cases, or it's in the press ram or primer tray somewhere.

That's know as a hydraulic dent caused by too much case lube on the shoulder and neck. Cut back on the lube and only lube the body lower section. You have to be careful with Running Redding dies all the way to the shell holder (cam over) for you can push the shoulder back too far. You only need to push the shoulder back 0.001"-0.002" on a bolt gun and 0.002"-0.003" on a simi. Over sizing the brass can lead to brass failure.

What kind of lube are you using.
A lot of shoulder dents can come from too much lube on the case. It could be some of it is up in your die now and the die will need cleaned out.
To much lube will dent the cases and also trap air and that can dent cases also.

As far as pulling them back out, if the case starts to move and then stops, it could be the neck resizing button on the stem is causing it. If that is the case you may need a carbide button for on there or use mica dry lube inside the case before you resize it.
If it doesn't want to move at all you may want to change lubes, if your getting neck dents and stuck at the same time you lube isn't up to job at hand or it is miss applied.

sometimes you will find answers in the front part of your reloading manual. since you are new to this, I suggest you read the front part of your manual at least once before continuing your reloading process.

luck,

murf

Definitely too much case lube. That said case lube tends to build up over time inside the reloading die causing oil dents too. I clean my resizing die with alcohol, Gun Scrubber or acetone every time before I start a new reloading session. I apply my case lube one case at a time with my fingers. Redding makes a very good case lube that comes in a tin. Kind of like a small snuff can. Hornady offers a similar product. Make sure your hands and brass are clean of dirt and grit. Get a piece of dirt or grit on a lubed case and you will score the inside of the die to the point that every case you run through that die will come out with a very significant scratch on it. As for the adjustment of the decapping plug / spindle you need to realize that no two makes of brass, sometimes no two different lots of the same brand of brass, are necessarily the same. Sort you brass by brand and by case lot number (if possible).

I adjust my cleaned resizing die at the start of my reloading session as follows:

* Screw the body of the die into the press until it makes contact with the shell holder and back off a turn and a half.
* Take a fired or new case (knock the spent primer out with a hammer and punch on a fired case.) Use the Hornady tool to measure the distance from the back of the case to the datum line on the case shoulder making note of the measurement before running it in the resized die the first time.

* Run the case into the sizing die...ram all the way up. Take it out and use the Hornady tool to measure the length to the datum line on the case shoulder. There are no guarantees that your resizing die is the same dimension as your rifle chamber. Take care not to push the case shoulder back more than .001” to .002” or your brass life will be seriously shortened. Keep screwing the resizing die down into the press 1/4 turn at a time checking to make sure that you’re not pushing the case shoulder back too far and checking periodically to see how easily the resized case chambers in your rifle. Once it chambers with a reasonable amount of resistance you’re good to go. If you run the die all the way down until it touches your shell holder, assuming you have not pushed the case shoulder back more than .001” or .002”, see how the resized brass chambers in your rifle. If it chambers without using undue force, the body of your die is adjusted in your press properly. If it takes excessive force to chamber your brass at this point you may have to run the die down in the press until you feel the ram cam-over on the bottom of the sizing die. Check to see how easily the round chambers in your rifle. If you get to the caming over point without pushing the case shoulder back too far, the round should chamber easily.

* Once I have the body of the sizing die properly set up in the press, I set up the decapping spindle by running that same resized and deprimed case all the way back up in the die with the decapping spindle way above the bottom of the sizing die but far enough in the die that I can clear the expander button well below the case neck. With the case in the sizing die and the resizing spindle well inside the body of the case, (press ram all the way up) I screw the spindle down until I can feel the expander button make contact with the the base of the case. Back off 1/2 a turn on the spindle and set the lock nut on the spindle. Your die is now properly adjusted for your rifle and your brass.

Lubing the inside of the case neck is not only a good idea, it’s a must. You can use a small mount of case lube on a bristle brush. I dip my brush in Frankfort Arsenal Motor Mica (white graphite) with good results. The point here is that you want the case to pull back over the expander plug with minimal effort. There is just enough slop on most presses the pull a case neck out of alignment with the body of the case if excessive force is required to pull the case neck back over the expander plug in the resizing process. You will know it if that happens because you will hear and feel the case chatter. Pull the case neck out of alignment with the body of the case and bullet accuracy will suffer.

All of the above assumes you are reloading for a bolt action rifle. If you are reloading for a semi automatic rifle, I recommend using small base resizing dies. Now this is controversial, and some will criticize me for this opinion. Many people do very well with standard resizing dies and semi automatic rifles. That said just remember the admonition that there are no guarantees that rifle chambers and resizing dies share compatible dimensions. Had a friend that poo-pooed this point and used standard resizing dies to reload .223 ammo for his AR15 with excellent results. All was well until he upgraded the AR15 with a match grade Lilja barrel. Had the chamber cut with a match grade reamer. First round he tried to chamber would not go into battery! Couldn’t get the round out of the chamber with a brass rod and hammer from the muzzle end either! He ended up having to pull the barrel. Chuck it up in a lathe and cut the back out of the case. Then had to use a reamer to get what was left of the case out of his match chamber! Today he’s the proud owner of a very nice Redding Small Base resizing die.

trapperjohn said:

yes, the pin just pulled out. I found it on the floor. I was using to much lube. also cleaning running a brush inside the case seems to have helped. the dents are getting smaller as I run some cases through that I didn't lube. Thanks for the help

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Haven’t read every reply, but it looks like these Gents got ya covered.
If I can be of any assistance feel free to send a PM
J

1. Buy a reloading manual.
2. Read it.
3. Ponder what you've read.

Way too many people jumping into this hobby without cracking open a book.

trapperjohn said:

When I continue the handle stroke to bring the cartridge back down it gets REALLY REALLY hard. to the point I feel like I am forcing it.

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The expander is opening the neck up to the correct inside diameter, as the expander comes out of the case. Standard full length sizing die make the necks smaller then needed , so die works with all brands of brass. Some case walls are thicker/thinner then others.

The thicker the neck wall, the harder to pull the expander out. Always lube the inside of the necks, using a nylon brush of the correct size.

Your following the set up instructions , on new dies you should clean them before you start to size , I'm using RCBS Case lube , I'll run a line on the desk top and lube the case with my fingers , alittle goes a long way , don't put any lube on the shoulder only the case body and neck , I use a Q Tip to put some lube on the inside of the necks . One thing I want to add , how are you cleaning your brass and are you checking your trim length . Lube is a double edge sword , if your using too much it will cause dents , not enough it could cause a stuck case , if you feel sizing a case has more resistance lower the ram and add alittle more lube to the case body . You'll get a feel for it after a while . What I found helpfully is on the expander ball stem at the top of your sizing die I use a small O Ring sandwiched between washers and leaving the lock nut snug not tight , this enables your decapping pin and expander ball to self center . I trim after every firing it gets more like a cleanup then a trim . Find the trim range and set the length in the middle of the range , keeps thing trouble free . No shortcuts in case prepping . Asking questions is a good thing . Welcome to the team .

Chris

I posted a thread about the exact same issue when I first started reloading. Like other said, too much lube.
Wonder how many beginning reloaders have posted here about that problem.

Regarding the decapping pin; it doesn't have to extend below the die. It only needs to go in far enough to consistently remove the primer.

243winxb said:

The expander is opening the neck up to the correct inside diameter, as the expander comes out of the case. Standard full length sizing die make the necks smaller then needed , so die works with all brands of brass. Some case walls are thicker/thinner then others.

The thicker the neck wall, the harder to pull the expander out. Always lube the inside of the necks, using a nylon brush of the correct size.

Click to expand...

I’v never lubed the inside of the necks rather a spinning nylon brush does a good job reducing friction. ( not sure why just haven’t used lube)
One thing is for sure with that expander it gets pretty violent in there.

Jim
I'm using a standard RCBS F/L sizing die , nothing fancy . I use the expander and my brass is on the thick side so I would think when the expander goes through the neck it would have alot of resistance but it doesn't . Could it be that some die makers have a larger OD in the die neck , same as using bushing dies . I don't lock down my expender ball stem letting it self center , that my also help in removing the resistance . I didn't clean my brass before any sizing to the point the brass looks brand new , in both sizing the case body and neck , sizing is very smooth , applying RCBS Case lube by hand.

Chris

Keeping this simple.
(1) Take the sizing die apart and clean with solvent based cleaner of your choice.
(2) Shine a light up into the die to assure that it is really clean.
(3) Reinstall die in press and adjust per manufacturers instructions.
(4) Lube case very lightly, only on the fat part of the case. Absolutely no lube on the neck or shoulder.
(5) Size the case.

cw308 said:

Jim
I'm using a standard RCBS F/L sizing die , nothing fancy . I use the expander and my brass is on the thick side so I would think when the expander goes through the neck it would have alot of resistance but it doesn't . Could it be that some die makers have a larger OD in the die neck , same as using bushing dies . I don't lock down my expender ball stem letting it self center , that my also help in removing the resistance . I didn't clean my brass before any sizing to the point the brass looks brand new , in both sizing the case body and neck , sizing is very smooth , applying RCBS Case lube by hand.

Chris

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Chris
I may look into a set of RCBS Dies for an upcoming project, I know you’re having good success with them.
J

CptnAwesome said:

I posted a thread about the exact same issue when I first started reloading. Like other said, too much lube.
Wonder how many beginning reloaders have posted here about that problem.

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Question. Did you read the front of a loading manual before you started reloading.

Jim
Yes , it was the first die set I owned , if I remember right it is a neck die , full length die and seating die .I only now use the full sizing die with the expander ball that came with the die , sizing is with the Redding Competition Shellholders . On seating I'm using the Redding Competition Seating Die using the standard shellholder . The system has worked the best for me and I'm sure like everyone I have tried many . Be Well .

Chris

Texas10mm said:

Question. Did you read the front of a loading manual before you started reloading.

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Nah
Guys don’t read instructions until something goes wrong

Charlie98 said:

How are you lubing the cases? That looks like a dent from too much lube. Since lube is a liquid, it does not compress... and has nowhere to go in the size die... so it dimples the brass.

The difficulty pulling the case out of the size die is the expander ball being drug through the resized case neck... when you lube the cases, make sure you get a little lube inside the case neck, that will make it a little easier.

Your decap pin probably just pulled out... it's likely stuck in one of the cases, or it's in the press ram or primer tray somewhere.

Click to expand...

Charlie is onto something. I use RCBS glycerin lube to resize cases. I put the cases into a plastic freezer bag and put in some glycerin lube. I stir the bag around and then let it set for 24 hours. (if possible) Setting in the bag with the lube allows the lube to crawl over the brass and into the mouth. If I want to start right away on resizing the cases, it takes more lube but I still use the freezer bag and add more lube than I would if I had time to let the bag set for 24 hours. This avoids the "too much lube" issue that comes with using the pad and lets lube go into the mouth of the case.

kwg

Texas10mm said:

Question. Did you read the front of a loading manual before you started reloading.

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Yep, several. Read up on reloading for about 5 months before I loaded my first cartridge. Why you ask Devil Dog?

CptnAwesome said:

Yep, several. Read up on reloading for about 5 months before I loaded my first cartridge. Why you ask Devil Dog?

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Normally the over lubing the shoulder of a bottleneck case is explained in the front of the reloading manual.

Read plenty about that. But being new, nothing wrong with asking experienced reloaders for verification. That's what we're here for

I would recommend using Imperial case sizing wax on the just on the body and then dipping the neck in Redding dry neck lube. The dry neck lube won't damage case necks.