Removing case lube after full length resizing

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I load on a Dillon 650. Rifle cases are spray lubed with Dillon lube sized/deprimed, tumbled in a rotary tumbler with corn cobs and mineral spirits, and then load on the 650.

I replace the sizing die with a universal decapper to knock out any corncob media that sticks in the flash hole.

The thought of leaving lube on the cases just stands my teeth on edge.
 
  • The guy I got the idea to lubricate 308 Win cases for use in the M1a had been doing this for years.
  • Never experienced a case head separation with lubricated cases. Absolutely no internal necking or case stretching.
  • I have shot thousands if not tens of thousands of lubricated pistol rounds, particularly 9mm.
  • Just keep the stuff off the ground or you will have to wipe the dirt off with a rag.

Something about your post unlocked a long ago forgotten memory. I vaguely remember reading something about shooting lubed cases and how upon firing this allowed the case to slip back into contact with the bolt face rather than the sides of an unlubed case sticking to the chamber walls which forced the case to stretch.

The trick then is to coat the cases with the least amount of lube possible to avoid problems associated with hydraulic pressure caused by the fact that liquids are not compressible. Am I thinking correctly about this?

Why did the FAL cases in your picture stretch so much? Were they fired dry?
 
To paraphrase Ronald Reagan: “It isn’t that reloaders are ignorant. It’s just that they know so many things that aren’t so.”

In some 1/2 million rounds I’ve loaded not one, ever, that failed to go bang. It’s fine to have a technique or preference but in light of the OP’s question I feel experience says lube, in and of itself, is perfectly fine.
 
Something about your post unlocked a long ago forgotten memory. I vaguely remember reading something about shooting lubed cases and how upon firing this allowed the case to slip back into contact with the bolt face rather than the sides of an unlubed case sticking to the chamber walls which forced the case to stretch.

That's some of the lie. Here is an example of a case that must be lubricated, or the ship would be sunk!

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out of this machine cannon

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from this ship

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or this ship

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or, on this plane

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might ask, how did this oiler work, if what you were taught was true

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There are guys who don't know where it started, why it started, but are at least trying to correct the record.



Why did the FAL cases in your picture stretch so much? Were they fired dry?

They were fired dry. The FAL is a rear locking action and it has a lot of stretch even when in battery, and then when it unlocks, it stretches the case even more.

I did fire almost 1000 cases of greased CAVIM in my FAL. Don't use my choice of lube, it was stick wax. I had purchased stick wax and it is the most tenuous grease I have come across. It made to lubricate saw teeth on saw blades. It really stays on. I tossed lumps into a bag, with the 308 CAVIM and shaked and baked the stuff. Cases were coated, but lumpy. I fired that stuff and clearly saw that I could dial down the gas port, the cases were coming out of the chamber with less friction. However, the air was filled with particles of stick wax, it got on my glasses, hair, hands, and the rifle. The stuff did not dissolve worth a hoot either. It did however, keep the cases from stretching.

Like what this guy did to increase the lifetime of his Enfield cases

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I didn't remove lube at first, but do now, simply by spraying the surfaces of the cases with 90% isopropyl and rolling them around in a clean towel. I haven't seen it make a difference except that I feel better loading cases that aren't still sticky when I put them into an ammo case or magazine.
 
Slamfire, this is all very enlightening. The Vickers video was eye-opening.

All of this has reminded me of what we used to do in an effort to make our M85 .50 cal machine guns run. The linked rounds were loaded into a tray in the TC cupola. Then we'd squirt 30wt engine oil all over them before we'd make a qualification run down Tank Table 8. We never blew up a machine gun.

Also, we ran our M16s as wet as possible without having oil actually dripping out of the action. However, we didn't fill the barrels full of oil. According to the video I guess we could have done so without any ill effects.
 
This makes me wonder if these cases could have been reloaded many, many more times if they had been annealed after each firing thus preventing the work hardening of the necks.

The primer pockets were getting large and I was afraid of having alibi's due to dropped primers. That is why the last time I used these cases was during Rattle Battle at Camp Perry. If you are a competitive shooter, alibi's ruin your scores.

All of this has reminded me of what we used to do in an effort to make our M85 .50 cal machine guns run. The linked rounds were loaded into a tray in the TC cupola. Then we'd squirt 30wt engine oil all over them before we'd make a qualification run down Tank Table 8. We never blew up a machine gun.

There are many who would not believe you, or, would insist that pouring oil over those rounds would have "unpredictably and dangerously raised pressures and bolt thrust. These people, whom I call Hatcherites have raised Townsend Whelen and Gen Hatcher to God hood and implicitly believe as infallible, these statements these men made

This is what Townsend Whelen said in 1945

Small Arms Design”, 1945, Townsend Whelen

Pg 332

Cartridges should never be greased or oiled, and the bullets should never be greased. Grease on the cartridge or in the chamber creates excessive and hazardous pressure. It operates to reduce the size of the chamber and thus increases the density of loading and the pressure. Also there is no adhesion of the case in the chamber, and when fired the case slips back easily and the bolt head receivers a greater rearward thrust. This does not apply to rim fire cartridges.

There is an variant of a section in Hatcher's Notebook where he claims that 1. Grease increased the bolt thrust dangerously; and 2.as if that weren't enough, grease increased the chamber pressure dangerously. Hatcher wrote his book, Hatcher's Notebook in 1948. This is after he was the Head of Ordnance in WW2 and built over 150,000 Oerikon machine cannon which used greased ammunition. Through my own research, I was able to find that Hatcher knew of oilers and the need for oilers.


Army Ordnance Magazine, March-April 1933

Automatic Firearms, Mechanical Principles used in the various types, by J. S. Hatcher. Chief Smalls Arms Division Washington DC.

Retarded Blow-back Mechanism………………………..

There is one queer thing, however, that is common to almost all blow-back and retarded blow-back guns, and that is that there is a tendency to rupture the cartridges unless they are lubricated. This is because the moment the explosion occurs the thin front end of the cartridge case swells up from the internal pressure and tightly grips the walls of the chamber. Cartridge cases are made with a strong solid brass head a thick wall near the rear end, but the wall tapers in thickness until the front end is quiet thin so that it will expand under pressure of the explosion and seal the chamber against the escape of gas to the rear. When the gun is fired the thin front section expands as intended and tightly grips the walls of the chamber, while the thick rear portion does not expand enough to produce serious friction. The same pressure that operates to expand the walls of the case laterally, also pushes back with the force of fifty thousand pounds to the square inch on the head of the cartridge, and the whole cartridge being made of elastic brass stretches to the rear and , in effect, give the breech block a sharp blow with starts it backward. The front end of the cartridge being tightly held by the friction against the walls of the chamber, and the rear end being free to move back in this manner under the internal pressure, either one of two things will happen. In the first case, the breech block and the head of the cartridge may continue to move back, tearing the cartridge in two and leaving the front end tightly stuck in the chamber; or, if the breech block is sufficiently retarded so that it does not allow a very violent backward motion, the result may simply be that the breech block moves back a short distance and the jerk of the extractor on the cartridge case stops it, and the gun will not operate.

However this difficultly can be overcome entirely by lubricating the cartridges in some way. In the Schwarzlose machine gun there is a little pump installed in the mechanism which squirts a single drop of oil into the chamber each time the breech block goes back. In the Thompson Auto-rifle there are oil-soaked pads in the magazine which contains the cartridges. In the Pedersen semiautomatic rifle the lubrication is taken care of by coating the cartridges with a light film of wax.

Blish Principle….There is no doubt that this mechanism can be made to operate as described, provided the cartridge are lubricated, …. That this type of mechanism actually opens while there is still considerable pressure in the cartridge case is evident from the fact that the gun does not operate satisfactorily unless the cartridges are lubricated.


Thompson Sub-Machine Gun: … Owing to the low pressure involved in the pistol cartridge, it is not necessary to lubricate the case.

“Blow-Forward” Mechanism: We have seen above (blowback mechanism) that some method must be provided to hold the breech block against the barrel when the gun is fired, because otherwise the pressure of the powder gas pushing back on the cartridge case would drive the breech block back away from the barrel and let the cartridge out while the explosion was going on. With the blow-back gun the breech block is allowed to move in this manner, but is made heavy enough so that the movement does not occur too quickly.

Instead of allowing the breech block to move back, it would be quite possible to attach the stock and al the frame-work of the gun firmly to the breech block and then allow the barrel to move forward when the gun is fired instead of allowing the breech block to move back. Several automatic pistols, notably the Schwarzlose, have been constructed on this principle.

In 1917 an inventor appeared at Springfield Armory with a machine gun made to fire the Krag army cartridge, having the framework of the gun solidly fixed and the barrel loosely mounted so that it could move forward against the action of a spring when the gun was fired. This gun operated, but it was necessary to grease the cartridge case to prevent the front part of the case, expanded by the pressure, from sticking to the barrel as it moved forward.

One trouble with this system is that it greatly accentuates the recoil. The normal tendency of the explosion in the cartridge case is to push the bullet in one direction and the cartridge and breech block in the other. When there is no provision for locking the breech block to the barrel but instead it is attached to the framework and stock of the gun, and the barrel left loose, it is obvious that the explosion drives not only the breech block but the stock to which it is attached back against the shooter’s shoulder with a considerable amount of violence.

This inventor had besides his machine gun, a semiautomatic shoulder rifle built on this principle, though the mechanism was only crudely worked out. He demonstrated this gun by firing a number of shots with it and then allowed the Armory officials to fire it. I fired one or two shots with it and the kick was so terrific that I felt as though a mule had landed on of his hind feet on my shoulder. I seemed to be kicked back two or three feet from where I was standing and tears actually ran out of my eyes from the blow, which marvel as to how the inventor, who was a frail, pathetic looking man, managed to shoot it without any signs of discomfort. After showing his model he returned to a nearby factory to complete the mechanism but a few days later we were distressed to learn that he had taken his new gun and deliberately blown his head off with it. Probably the kick was too much for him after all.

that was written in 1933, and yet, I believe that all through his career, Hatcher believed the contradictory statements he made in 1948. Which to repeat are: 1. Grease increased the bolt thrust dangerously; and 2.as if that weren't enough, grease increased the chamber pressure dangerously. This is a good example of the infinite self deceit that humans will do to themselves to identify with, and fit in with a group. Hatcher knew better and yet, he did not know better.

Hatcherites of course, don't know anything but what Hatcher and Whelen told them, they don't know the history of firearms, not really, they could not design a locking mechanism. But they are certain that your pouring oil over 50 caliber rounds would be dangerous and irresponsible.
 
This makes me wonder if these cases could have been reloaded many, many more times if they had been annealed after each firing thus preventing the work hardening of the necks.

Possibly, but if done improperly they’ll be ruined anyway or worse yet dangerous and a good annealer is close to $1,500.
 
Bottle neck rifle rounds and straight or nearly straight wall pistol brass are completely different animals when it comes to lubing, cleaning lube off, or ignoring it.

For pistol brass to lube them, I about half fill one of those jars, tip it over a little and give it a squirt of One Shot. Shake 'em all up and may be do it a couple more times. Maybe 100 to 150 pcs of brass. Then I just start sizing them.

Not so for rifle brass. I use a lube pad and the old ways for those.
 
I see on the Hornady ONE SHOT Spray you can leave it on , l will remove the case lube anyway .

Me too, just because you can leave it on doesn’t mean you should leave it on. I haven’t done any testing to prove its better to clean the lube off, but it makes me feel better. And that makes it worth my time. In fact, I dry tumble before case prep and now I am wet tumbling after case prep. I like the fact that wet tumbling after case prep cleans up the annealing mess better than dry. And I feel it does a better job of cleaning off the lube inside the case neck. In my mind consistency is key and the only way to have consistent case neck lube it to have no case neck lube.

The extra work may or may not have any real value on paper. Only time and scores will tell. If you have a process that you are happy with, go for it. As always YMMV
 
Possibly, but if done improperly they’ll be ruined anyway or worse yet dangerous and a good annealer is close to $1,500.

That’s not true. Let me quote a wise man.

To paraphrase Ronald Reagan: “It isn’t that reloaders are ignorant. It’s just that they know so many things that aren’t so.”

I have a great annealer that cost less than a hundred bucks. The commercial version is less than $400.

And its very easy to anneal brass. If you can’t follow directions well enough to anneal brass, I’m thinking reloading might no be the best thing for you. (not you in particular, you in general.)
 
The primer pockets were getting large . . .
I have re-read this entire thread several times now and see that you mentioned loose primer pockets earlier. Loose primer pockets or cracks at the case mouth are what tell me my .45 brass is going in the trash. I've had my eye on an AMP induction annealer for a while but it's crazy expensive and, in light of the information you've shared, I'm thinking firing lubed cases will eliminate the need for annealing bottleneck rifle cases.

I went to the thread where the Enfield guy described his experience. In it he states that his cases never increased in length. This seems to contradict your earlier post in which you describe how your friend would take a file to the case mouth of any brass that he thought needed to be shortened. On the other hand, he didn't actually take any measurements to confirm case or neck length.

In your experience, have you ever had to shoulder bump your lube-fired .308 cases for your M1A?
 
I use RCBS glycerin lube. When I am done resizing I squirt some windex or 409 on the cases and rinse well in hot water. I transfer them to a dry container and let them set for a few days to finish drying out. I don't always tumble them after. If I want them pretty, I tumble. If I just want to shoot them I trim, de burr and take out the crimp if they have one and load them up.

kwg
 
This makes me wonder if these cases could have been reloaded many, many more times if they had been annealed after each firing thus preventing the work hardening of the necks.

He got 22 to 23 firiengs from his cases. Seams to me he got his moneys worth out of his cases with out the cost of an anealler and his time doing the extra step.


I use the red Heet and liquid lanolin to lube the cases. I will wipe the ends of the cases with a paper towel and then dip the end in Redding Imperial then resize. After resizing I wipe the cases with a paper towel and call it good.

I wear a cheap blue rubber glove from Harbor Freight on my left hand so it doesn't get all dirty.

I wet tumble my brass so it gets nice & clean. Cleaner then dry tumbling in corncob or walnut hulls.
All of the crap that comes off the cases is contained in the water and gets tossed instead of being contained in the dry media and released in the area.

I don't keep track on reload countn when a case gets used up I toss it in the scrap bucket and grab another case from my stock on hand which is quit large.
I don't give it much though, shootinf is a hobby for me so I don't spend to much time over thinking things. It takes the relaxing part of it away.

Here are some targets from this past sunday.
243 test loads
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Nice shooting! Those groups deserve a better target.

These use very little ink and are cheap to print.
 

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For rifle cases I like to use Imperial on the body and Redding dry neck lube on the necks. I don't worry about the neck lube, but wipe off the Imperial wax with a microfiber cloth and some rubbing alcohol.
 
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