Unjacketed ammo, long-term storage question

That 22 ammo probably didn't backpacking grease on the bulkets, it was probably checking they used at the time.

IMO, instead of spending A Lot of time greasing up a lot of bullets just put then in military style ammo cans with a good seal. Keeping the air out will prevent corrosion for many decades.

https://cartridgecollectors.org/?page=guide

• Sani-Wax liquid wax (available from grocery stores or good hardware stores or direct from the Sani-Wax Corp.*) (alternative liquid furniture waxes may also serve this purpose).

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Google likes this.

The NRA museum uses wax on firearms.

Collectible Firearms, Microcrystalline Wax

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Lead bullets need a bullet lube to prevent leading in the barrel when shot. Factory loaded lead bullet ammo all have lubricant applied in the process. Current bullet lubricants are much better than 50+ years ago and are are more stable in long term storage and prevent the white lead oxidation you see on old bullets. Most of the commercial lead ammo has a wax like or polymer lube that remains in place if the ammo is stored at room temperature. If you buy re-manufactured ammo from small production sources the lube on the bullets may not be as good as what is found on the major ammo companies products.

I wouldn't grease any commercial lead ammo as it should be good for many years of storage in climate controlled space the way it was purchased. For hand loads use lead bullets made by Speer or polymer coated cast bullets from Missouri Bullets or other sources as the lube is dry and lasts. I have reloads using lead bullets stored for 15 to 20 years and they have all shot fine when I finally took them to the range.

I vacuum pack my ammo that I don't intend to shoot in the short term. No grease required.

londez said:

How about Hoppes Black gun grease? Or Hoppes synthetic lubricating oil?

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The SDS does not list much. https://www.hoppes.com/global/customer-service/sds-information

I would not use anything. Just place in an air tight, water proof container. Sorry, not much help. Not an expert on long term storage.

These old ones have been sitting in a cardboard box since around 1970s . Note the base of the pulled bullet from a 38 S&W.The powder seems to have attacked the lead.

FWIW; I have some 40 year old 22 ammo in original packing. Winchester lead, not copper washed. I store them in a 5 gal bucket with a tight lid and one package of desiccant. Bullets have no white fuzz...

Yep, factory lead bullet loads have bullet lube on them, but a good portion is exposed, which is what the OP wants to be preserved. Perhaps a heavy packing grease would work but check 243winxb's posted link...

Whats the definition of "long term"?? Depending on how old you are the ammo may outlast you. I know mine will,
Rotate your stock, shoot more

You could get some Lee liquid alox and rub some on with your figers. It dries so it won't attract grit. I have some cast boolits 10-15 years old coated with it. Nice and shiny under it.

londez said:

Hello everyone ... I don't do any handloading/reloading

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Hello and welcome to THR H&R category.

londez said:

Should I grease unjacketed lead ammo for long term storage?

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In general, for short-term storage of loaded ammunition (Less than a year), I use plastic Folgers coffee cans or plastic/metal ammo cans with rubber seal.

For long-term storage of loaded ammunition (More than a year), I tape seal rounds in plastic bags and then in plastic/metal ammo cans with rubber seal or vacuum seal rounds in plastic bags then in plastic 5 gallon buckets with lids.

As to storage of lubed lead bullets, I have some stored in tape sealed plastic bags going on 15-20 years and factory boxes wrapped in plastic cling wrap going on 10-15 years and they look like new.

Lead and most lubes will break down over time if exposed to air. Even the air in sealed containers can cause this. We're talking 20+ years, but I have seen it in the utility industry. Lead conductor telephone cable connectors I found in a sealed mason jar around our shop. They were invoiced in 1937, and factory packaged in a glass jar with beeswax sealed zinc lid. Seal was still airtight, but the outside of the lead had turned a powdery white. They needed some treatment before I could put them into service on a very old telephone cable as the oxidized coating was not conductive. Beeswax based sealants are most recommended on utility connections that are subject to reaction with air. It is electrically and chemically neutral and resists oxidation or attack by microbes better than petroleum based coatings. I would think a beeswax based wood polish product and storage in a sealed ammo can would be your best bet. My cast bullet loads do not last long enough to worry about long term storage. I have a pile of lead telephone cable set aside for casting that is packed inside the duct carrier with a greasy beeswax substance. It is still bright and shiney after more than 100 years buried in the ground, and the beeswax looks like it was placed yesterday.