686 S&W vs 586 S&W

Status
Not open for further replies.

Huntolive

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Messages
1,139
Location
Virginia
I'm getting more familiar with different models of revolvers and I already have a 686 plus stainless steel Smith & Wesson.
I'm wondering if I'm really missing anything by not having a 586, either the new version or a version from the 80s.
Other than the blued finish versus the stainless steel, is there any appreciable difference between the two in terms of function trigger and accuracy???
also is there much appreciable difference between an older model 586 and The New classic version that can be purchased now for about $650 brand new? That is other than the lock?
 
I would not hesitate to buy a new 586. You probably wouldn't notice a difference in action IMO. I'm sure others with more personal experience with both will chime in. In my area finding a pre lock 586 in good condition for the price of a new 586 could take a while. Good luck
 
I know it is probably B.S. but I bought a 586 new in about 1985 and then a 686 in 1987. I swear the 586 shot better. It wasn't the mechanics but it just somehow felt better in my hand. I lost the 586 in a burglary and never got another. I still have the 686 and bought a 686+ a year or so ago. Different guns but I cannot fault either one.
 
My 686 plus has a very smooth trigger and good overall balance. I tend to prefer stainless steel revolvers although I do love my Dan Wesson 15-2 and that out shoots all my other 357 s including some performance center Smith & Wesson's.
I tend to find that older model Smith & Wesson's have better triggers even then performance center newer models.
I can get a 586 - 1 for 650 dollars which is the exact same price as buying a new classic 586. The used one has a couple little dings near the front of the barrel and the bluing looks a bit dull but not pitted at all.

Any advice as to whether the 586 would have any distinct advantages over my 686 plus? My main objective with the guns is whitetail hunting.
Also which way to go between the 580 6-1 and a new classic version?
 
Huntolive

My Model 686 no dash still has the best DA/SA trigger right out of the box of any S&W revolver I have owned.

A couple of years later I got another one just like it but it didn't have anywhere near as nice of a trigger or as good of an overall fit and finish.

7gdgU9i.jpg
 
With your eyes closed you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference between a similar-era 586/686 (or the newer + models). Whichever one sings to you the loudest is the one to go for.

I’m about split down the middle between my numbers of blued and stainless handguns. I prefer the looks of deep blued steel and walnut stocks, but I find the stainless/synthetic grip ones easier to cosmetically maintain.

Stay safe.
 
So my 686+ should shoot just as well as a similar 586, right? And I already have a 686, do is a 586 just re- covering same ground?
 
So what about a model 19 in nickel instead? How do 686 and model 19 compare?
I don't have any nickel guns, how is maintenance vs stainless?
 
So my 686+ should shoot just as well as a similar 586, right? And I already have a 686, do is a 586 just re- covering same ground?
Pretty much YEP:)
One is silver one is blued. That is if comparing guns from the same time period and capacity. I prefer stainless as it is pretty much "forever"
A new 586 and a new 686 6 shot
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-586-4-barrel
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686

Now there are those that favor the older pre lock "hand crafted" by Guss the gun smith no dash and all that.:)
 
Huntolive

Well the nickel plating on the Model 19 might require some additional care if you use any sort of copper solvent (like Hoppes No.9), to clean your guns. Typically nickel plating will not bond with a gun's surface unless a layer of copper plating is first applied to the gun. What happens when you clean the gun with a copper solvent is that it gets into the plating and goes after the layer of copper plating, essentially removing it along with the nickel plating on top of it.
 
My old 686 no dash, 4" barrel, is a shooter. Best action of any S&W I have ever held in my hands. Bought it new, back in the day. I would like to have a 586 also, but the ole 686 has the job covered.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
Thanks.
So if I have 686 6 inch and a Dan Wesson 15-2 with 6 and 8 in barrels, and a 3in Colt King Cobra and 4 in Smith & Wesson model 65 - 2 then I really have no need for 586 or a model 19. Correct? 686 just as Functionally good as 586?
 
I bought a 686 (no dash) back in the mid 80s and love it. There is absolutely nothing critical I can say about it. It's bank vault tight, exceptional trigger and as accurate as any centerfire I've ever fired. Plus it has taken quite a few deer. I would suspect a comparable 586 would be as good.
 
Thanks.
So if I have 686 6 inch and a Dan Wesson 15-2 with 6 and 8 in barrels, and a 3in Colt King Cobra and 4 in Smith & Wesson model 65 - 2 then I really have no need for 586 or a model 19. Correct? 686 just as Functionally good as 586?

Yup, the Model 686 with the 6" barrel will do about anything a Model 586 or a Model 19 will do.

If you want a 4" barreled 357 Magnum with adjustable sights, then you may want another revolver than what you already have. Then you have decide which to choose.

A 4" barreled gun is a bit easier to carry while a 6" barreled gun is a bit easier to aim with its longer sight distance.

My wife has a 4" Model 586 while I have a 6" Model 586 and an 8-3/8" Model 686. Except for the difference in handling due to the different barrel lengths, they all shoot about the same with the same ammunition.

The Model 686 is a bit easier to care for due to the stainless steel construction versus the blued Model 586. But, bear in mind, it is "stainless steel", not "stain proof" steel so some care in handling and cleaning is still in order.
 
Huntolive

So if I have 686 6 inch and a Dan Wesson 15-2 with 6 and 8 in barrels, and a 3in Colt King Cobra and 4 in Smith & Wesson model 65 - 2 then I really have no need for 586 or a model 19. Correct?

With that line-up I would say you have all of your bases pretty well covered when it comes to quality .357 revolvers!

And yep, the Model 686 is just as functionally good as the Model 586. And maybe a tad easier to take care of since it's made with stainless steel!
 
The difference between a 586 and 686, aside finish/metallurgy is the individual variation from gun to gun.
I’ve shot 586’s, carried several different 686’s (issued duty firearm), and shot a national record in PPC (off duty revolver, 2-1/2” bbl.) with a 686.

I looked at over 100 individual guns before I selected the one I have. After breaking in and tuning the action, it has arguably the most perfect action possible in a d/a revolver. The extra 15% weight over a K-frame improves shootability.

However, for edc, I’ll take a M19 or 66 any day...
All my other competition revolvers are on K-frames...
 
Thanks.
So if I have 686 6 inch and a Dan Wesson 15-2 with 6 and 8 in barrels, and a 3in Colt King Cobra and 4 in Smith & Wesson model 65 - 2 then I really have no need for 586 or a model 19. Correct? 686 just as Functionally good as 586?

As someone said: "Whatever floats your boat, boils your water, cranks your tractor............"

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
If you like a blue and walnut revolver better than a stainless gun the M586 is for you.

The only difference in the two is the finish. Any trigger variation or accuracy differences are due to gun to gun variations, not from the model number.

Next older M586 I find for sale that is offered at a fair price will have a new home, well after I find a M625 in 45 Colt lol.
 
This is the only one of these I ever saw.

zlKWx4G.jpg

T1IfjkZ.jpg

K9U92X4.jpg

It is a black finish M686 and it was not for sale. I know the owner, and he could tell from my drool, that I hungered for his pistol. I prefer the hammer mounted firing pin to the latter frame mounted striker. I talked to a S&W Customer Rep about this, he claimed milling the slot in the frame for the hammer mounted firing pin took a dedicated machine and person, they had not figured out a means to mill it without the dedicated worker.

I do own a M586, the previous owner fired 60,000 rounds of 148 LWC with 2.7 grs Bullseye, Federal primers, in PPC competition. I only had to replace the mainspring. The finish is badly worn, the previous owner was one of those who cleaned only when he had to.

wt7M26B.jpg

He did make the claim that the blued barrels were more accurate than the stainless barrels, and he was an excellent pistol shot, but I had a stainless M686, and it shot great. I don't know one way or another. I do know a 10 times PPC champ, and he claimed that Colt barrels were tighter, and therefore more accurate, and it was not uncommon to see a Smolt on the firing line. That is a K frame Smith with a Colt barrel. His primary competition K frame had a premium barrel, can't remember the maker, was not a Douglas, or I would have remembered that.
 
they had not figured out a means to mill it without the dedicated worker.

I have to wonder why?

I do remember a few “Smythons” / “smolts” though and even have a bullet or two I fired from both S&W and Colt barrels, after capturing and reloading for the 2nd firing, that have both left and right hand rifling twists in them. I was a kid and had too much time on my hands...

78C16296-3F54-459A-A21D-684799B23A56.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top