Model 19 S&W vs 586

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I cracked the forcing cone on my Model 19 with a steady diet of full power 158 grain JHP ammunition. Don't think just the hot 125 grainers are the culprit. Fortunately, S&W replaced the barrel on their dime circa 1983. Don't expect that service today.

According to S&W, they cannot replace k-frame barrels. They have no more barrels with which the repair can be made.

If you need a k-frame barrel, it'll be from the secondary market - used, NOS, whatever you can find.
 
The 19 was designed for carry and shooting mostly .38 special rounds & carrying magnums if you wished. The guns would not blow up, but with constant use of full house magnums, especially the 125 gr. would cause them to shoot loose (end shake) & crack forcing cones. I once did this on a 66 which is identical to the 19 only stainless with about 300 to 350 rounds of Remington 125 gr. jhp magnums. I called S & W & they paid the shipping both ways. They replaced the barrel, cylinder & other parts on their dime. Their gunsmith wrote me a note stating - shoot .38's & carry magnums, but these guns were never designed for a steady diet of magnum loads. They will last longer with heavier bullets, but why take a chance. Get the L frame & don't look back.
 
Internet rumors get twisted, changed and blown out of proportion.

The M19 was developed back when mostly cast bullets were being shot. Eventually jacketed bullets were mainstream and lighter bullets too. The forcing cone on theM19 was not designed to withstand 125gr jacketed bullets slamming into the forcing cone at 1900+ fps. Add the fact there was a relief cut at the bottom of the cone and we had a recipe for disaster. Shooting 158gr cast bullets fast in an old M19 will not harm the gun.

All that said I completely agree the M586 or M686 is much better suited for hunting. It's just a beefier gun made for the task.
 
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For hunting, I would also take a look at the 8 3/8" Model 586/686 depending on whether you prefer blue or stainless. I longer sight radius helps with accuracy and also with the full lug barrel, it really help with recoil and muzzle jump with full bore magnum loads. My 8 3/8" 686 is my Hog hunting gun and also my long range shooting target gun. Extremely accurate. The recoil is about the same as my 8 3/8" Model 27, but I think the full lug barrel helps a lot with muzzle rise or so it seems to me I can get back on target quicker with the 686 over the 27. The older I get it seems the less I like recoil almost to the point I don't shoot my 44 magnums nearly as much as I used to and even then its mostly 44 spl.
 
...and then
S&W brought the model 66 and 19 back with a new K-frame design. The new ones do not have the thinned out area of the forcing cone. They should be good to go. A 586/686 may still be the better choice for a hunting application though.

As far as the older pre-lock guns go everything you've read in this thread is true.
 
So my pre lock model 65-2 could suffer same failures as the older model 19. ?

I guess I could hold on to the 65 and just carry it on occasion and relegate it to 38 Special.
I just want a 357 to be a 357, otherwise for practicality I d be better off carrying 16 rounds of 40 cal
 
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I just want a 357 to be a 357, otherwise for practicality I d be better off carrying 16 rounds of 40 cal

That depends on what you think a .357 Mag is -
158gr at 1250 fps, or 125gr at 1500 fps?

One needs to remember that the K-frame was designed long before there was a 357 Mag. S&W sort of cobbled it up to shoot the 357 Mag.
There are a great many out there that have no problems.

Practice with 38 (even +P), carry with 357. It'll probably outlast whomever you leave it to after you die.
 
DriftWood,
Before you condemn the mainspring in your 586, check the strain screw. Make sure it’s screwed in. It’s common for PPC shooters to back off the strain screw to lower trigger pull. Most set the spring tension just high enough to reliably fire Federal primers.
Others will grind down the spring, in which case, you will need another spring. Lastly, check and make sure the strain screw hasn’t been ground down.
All things being equal, I prefer the hammer mounted firing pin to the current frame mounted. A direct strike ignition system imparts more Kinetic energy directly to the primer, as the hammer fall energy is not dissipated through transfer bars and transfer mechanisms. In marginal conditions a direct strike mechanism will ignite a primer when a frame mounted mechanism won't.

See the difference:

View attachment 858950

My 586, the previous owner shot over 60,000 rounds of 148 LWC and 2.7 grains Bullseye in PPC competition. Besides finish wear, the main spring needed replacing.

View attachment 858947

Having both K frame and L frame pistols

View attachment 858948

The K frame is more compact and easy to carry. The greatest problem the K frames had was with 125 grain full bore 357 Magnum loads. The heat and probably pressure, were such that forcing cone cracks became a problem. I know one shooter who was shooting major loads in his K frame and his forcing cone cracked. If you fire 38 Special level loads the pistol will last, effectively, forever. The same shooter, a 10 times PPC Champ, has fired over 600,000 rounds of 148 LWC 2..7 grains Bullseye in another K frame S&W. He has had to replace a broken firing pin, an extractor star and cylinder hand. The cylinder and frame are still fine. Barrel still groups 2 inches at 50 yards. I have fired cases of 38 Special +P through this pistol, outside of massive lead rings in the cylinders, everything is still perfect. I have fired ammunition cans of 158 grain L or JHP with 13.5 grains 2400 and had no problems what so ever.

If on your selection criteria, compactness rates higher than high rate of fire durability, than the M19 is the better choice. But, I will say, given the same price, and if compactness is not a particularly high issue, I would go for the M586.
 
Good point HoodaThunkit
I do practice with 38 to get the hang of the sights when I get a new 357, of which I have many, but then I like to practice with what I will shoot, which will always lean towards 357.
For right or wrong, I would never buy a 38.
I like having the 357 ability and the accompanying ease of shooting soft cheap 38 when desired but I desire it very little as I mostly in this for hunting.
I'll probably get rid of the model 65 to make room for I'm more durable revolver but it is a very fine pistol and super sweet trigger so it's not so easy maybe I need to compromise and re-think 38 Special.
But with all the semi-auto options for carry in a lighter smaller package with more rounds if I'm not going to carry 357 I'd go with a semi-auto.
 
DriftWood,
Before you condemn the mainspring in your 586, check the strain screw. Make sure it’s screwed in. It’s common for PPC shooters to back off the strain screw to lower trigger pull. Most set the spring tension just high enough to reliably fire Federal primers.
Others will grind down the spring, in which case, you will need another spring. Lastly, check and make sure the strain screw hasn’t been ground down.

I don't have a 586. I think you are thinking of somebody else.
 
Original Poster,

I have a 19 which is accurate and has a terrific trigger, but I now only use it as a .38. One day at the range, it froze up and the cylinder would not rotate after 16 rounds of factory .357. I put the gun down and shot another gun. After the 19 cooled, it went through a box of +P .38 Specials without a problem.
If I want to shoot .357 magnums out of a mid-size gun, I use a RUGER Security Six.

Also, my agency issued S&W model 13's, a K-frame size .357 magnums until a 125 grain round cracked the forcing cone. After that, they started buying RUGERS. The RUGER Security Six made from the 70's, was about the same size and weight as the model 19, they fit in the same holsters. The RUGER'S were a much more modern and stronger design. You can shoot .357 magnums in them without worry or going to a heavier gun like the 586 or RUGER'S GP-100.

Jim
 
Thanks on the advice on Ruger security six I always kind of wondered about them you see a lot of them around
 
Thanks yes I have arranged to get a 686 talo edition 7 shot with a 7 inch barrel.
I've decided that if there's no real difference between the 586 in the 686 that I do prefer stainless steel revolvers.
Don't get me wrong I love my Dan Wesson 15 2 blue
But that's a color blind decision based on accuracy and I doubt I'll ever find a revolver that will out shoot a Dan Wesson 15 to with a 6 or 8 inch barrel.
Heck even with a 4-inch Barrel my Dan Wesson outshot my performance center Smith & Wesson and Ruger GP100 5-inches 25 yards.
 
better choice. the forward balance will be better for accuracy: 0913191652.jpg 0913191655b.jpg 0913191658a.jpg 0913191659a.jpg the 686 has a 8 3/8" barrel. I threw in the combat masterpiece 4inch for comparison.

good choice!

murf
 
Thanks murf will do.
Hoping to do some shooting one of these evening soon or this weekend.
I'm going to focus on 357
Power also try out my new Toklat.
 
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