Opinions on S&W Model 15-3

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I'm going to be a butt head here and ask for the $600 price range why not get a 357 magnum capable gun?

I would think you could find a used model 13, 19, 65, or 66 for that price or less. Why not get that instead even if you just plan on shooting 38s?

Some of us prefer to have revolvers that are chambered for 38 Special. I have a bunch of 357s, but frankly I seldom shoot them with anything other than 38 Specials.

Mine are all range toys and I really don't care for the blast and recoil of 357 Magnum from a revolver.

So I am perfectly happy buying 38 Special 'only' revolvers.

Here is my K-38 Combat Masterpiece, the forerunner to the Model 15. This one shipped in 1953. Note that it is a five screw and has the 'speed hammer' typical of that time.

It is in almost pristine condition and I paid $750 for it a few years ago. I was happy to do it.

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P.S. I am of the opinion that having the box and papers to increase the value is highly over rated. I can't tell you how many times I have closed the deal on a revolver and then the dealer said 'I think I have the box out back'. If having the box increased the value, he would have mentioned it up front.
 
I bought a 4 inch model 15 with Hogue grips. It is simply one of the best handling, easy to shoot .38 Special revolvers ever made. I keep it as a back up house gun to my BERETTA M9A3. It shoots the FEDERAL 130 grain HST rounds very well.

I consider it a terrific self defense gun for a NON-SHOOTER male or average to tall female. The grip is probably too large for petite woman. The combination of not too strong recoil, good accuracy, medium size and weight make it a good all around performer.

Jim
 
The Model 15 (38 Special) is more than just a short chamber Model 19 (357 Magnum). The Model 15 is a lighter, quicker handling, more "svelte" version. The Model 15 has a lighter more tapered barrel, a thinner lighter rib, and lacks the weight adding ejector rod underlug. In addition, the cylinder is slightly shorter. Most of that weight (In the Model 19) is toward the muzzle, giving the two guns a completely different feel.

The same thing applies to the Model 24 (44 Special) and the Model 29 (44 Magnum). Sure you can fire both Specials and Magnums in the Magnum gun and if you only want one, that's the thing to do probably. But there is nothing like shooting the Special's in a gun made for the Specials. :)
 
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If you get an opportunity to shoot a Model 14 or 15, you'd understand why folks want them.

Yes, you can shoot 38 Special in a 357 Magnum revolver but...



And, yes, there are alot of good 357 Magnum revolvers out there.

If you want a 38 special I get that.

But why not get a model 10 for half the price?
 
If you want a 38 special I get that.

But why not get a model 10 for half the price?
Well, first off the 10 doesnt have adjustable sights.....

They just feel different. I cant explain it. You have to hold them both to understand- maybe its a balance issue, I dont know. I thought the same thing until I tried a 15 for the first time.
 
The Model 10 has fixed sights vs the adjustable sights on the Model 15.

I get that. To me it wouldn't be worth twice the price just for adjustable sights.

But that's just my opinion. If you have the money and its worth it to you more power to you.

:)
 
The difference and handling and shooting characteristics between the model 10 and model 15 with same barrel links never ceases to amaze me. I have both. I like both very very much. The 15 is a decidedly different shooter than the model 10. I can’t explain it, I’ve simply come to except it, and I truly enjoy them bought 1 The difference in handling and shooting characteristics between the model 10 and model 15 with same barrel lengths never ceases to amaze me. I have both. I like both very very much. The 15 is a decidedly different shooter than the model 10. I can’t explain it, I have simply come to except it, and I truly enjoy them both.

I really believe that an appreciator of revolvers are to have at least one each of model 10 and model 15. If I were to have one and only one it would be the model 15.

And, I do not enjoy shooting 38 special from a gun chambered for 357. I get a great deal of satisfaction from shooting 38 special from a K frame, given the fact that that is specifically what the frame was designed for.
 
20160905_174453.jpg I paid $175 for this Model 15-3, back during the great police revolver sell off days.
A few years later, I bought a 4" taper barrel pre-Model 10 from about 1957.
While the Model 10 is a great revolver, the Model 15 is a much better shooter. The trigger is much nicer, DA or SA
 
While the Model 10 is a great revolver, the Model 15 is a much better shooter. The trigger is much nicer, DA or SA

Now. this gets my attention.It is my understanding that there is no difference in the internals of a 10 vs a 15. Someone with more authoritative knowledge - please jump in here.

Calling DRIFTWOOD JOHNSON!
 
The internals are the same, although the Model 15 has a trigger overtravel stop.
The difference could be caused by the Model 15 being used or even tweaked by a previous user. Maybe the Model 10 hasn’t been cycled as much. Who knows? But pulling the trigger on the Model 15 is noticeably smoother, and the overtravel stop makes a positive difference.
 
I don't think that your over travel stop is stock. Could be that your 15 was 'smithed.

Also - in my experience individual specimens of the same model can vary considerably in terms of trigger characteristics. All revolvers are not created equal. I own a plain Jane model 10 that has a trigger that will rival any other S&W I've ever handled , and it certainly has not had any improvements.
 
Lots of old USAF security guys have nothing but praise for the M-15 but not for the ammo they were issued (130 gr FMJ)
If I had the $$ I'd buy both, but I live in CA so I buy nothing:fire:
 
Went back last night, and ended up passing on it. Got to handle it, but wasn't allowed to check the lock up and so forth- they keep locks on until the sale. That put me off a bit and that little inside voice spoke up. Thanks everyone for the information, appreciate it.
 
Kookla

Bummer on the Model 15.

Would have been nice to hear you got it but sometimes you got to go with your instincts.
 
Howdy

Bummer that they did not allow you to check out the action. That shop would be off my list simply because of that.



OK, first let's talk about the trigger over travel stop, or 'adjustable stop' as the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson calls it.

The adjustable trigger stop was first incorporated on the K-38 Masterpiece (pre-model 14), the K-32 Masterpiece (pre-model 16), and the K-22 Masterpiece (pre-model 17), in 1946.

It was standard on all these models, it was not an option.

According to SCSW, 'Masterpiece' refers to those K frame revolvers introduced about 1946 with micrometer click-adjustable sights, short fast action, and built in anti-backlash trigger (referring to the adjustable trigger stop). Earlier 'target' revolvers with the earlier style adjustable rear sights, that were adjusted by backing out a tiny screw on one side, and pushing over the rear sight blade with a tiny screw on the other side, such as the early K-22s or the 38 M&P Target Models did not have an adjustable trigger stop. It was the advent of the 'modern' click-adjustable rear sight in 1946 (still used today) that signaled the beginning of the Masterpiece era.

Here is the trigger stop on my Model 17-3 from 1975.

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No, it is not adjustable from the outside, you have to remove the side plate to adjust it. Backing out the screw allows the trigger stop to be wiggled around. WHICH I STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST. Just leave it the way the factory set it. If you mess with it, it can take quite a while to get it in the correct position for the trigger to trip the hammer. It is real easy to mess this up and the trigger cannot release the hammer in single action. This can lead to much gnashing of teeth as you keep pulling the trigger and nothing happens. Just leave it alone, the craftsmen at S&W adjusted it properly. Trust me on this.

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Here is my favorite worn old K-22 that shipped in 1935. Notice the small screw for the rear sight, and the lack of an adjustable trigger stop. Yes, it is wearing incorrect magna grips, but it is the best shooting 22 I own.

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By the way, here is a look under the side plate of a Model 617-6 that shipped in 2003. Where is the adjustable trigger stop? There isn't one. One more reason I don't like the new Smiths.

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OK. enough about trigger stops. Today was a nice, cool, cloudy day at the range, perfect for some field tests. The revolvers in today's test, top to bottom, where a Model 10-5, probably made around 1964, a K-38 Combat Masterpiece (pre-model 15) from 1953, and a Model 14-3 from 1974. The Model 10 has a typical 4 inch tapered barrel from that era, sometimes known as a 'pencil barrel'. (Don't use that term around a serious collector.) The K-38 Combat Masterpiece has the typical slightly tapered 4 inch barrel, but not as tapered as the Model 10. The Model 14 has a typical 6" bull barrel (there is no taper anyway) and a heavy rib. The Model 10 weighs 2 pounds 1 ounce, the K-38 Combat Masterpiece weighs 2 pounds 3 ounces, and the Model 14 weighs in at 2 pounds 9 ounces.

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All shooting was done single action, from a rest, with the targets out at 25 feet. I have to say the group with the Model 10 was slightly better than the group with the K-38 Combat Masterpiece (boy am I grateful for Control C and Control V so I don't have to keep typing that). Yeah, I will never make it on a Bullseye team, I plead poor eyesight and slightly shaky hands, even with the rest. Yeah, the Model 14 put the other two to shame. It is heavier and the single action trigger pull is lighter.

Single action trigger pulls:

Model 10 = 3 pounds 10 ounces
K-38 Combat Masterpiece = 4 pounds 5 ounces
Model 14 = 3 pounds 8 ounces

When I got out my fancy battery powered Lyman trigger pull gauge I was surprised at the difference between the Model 10 trigger pull and the K-38 Combat Masterpiece trigger pull. I could not tell at the range, but that is what the trigger pull gauge said. The Model 10 is a police trade in, and I can see looking at the recoil shield that it has been fired much more than either of the other two, which probably somewhat accounts for the light trigger pull. No idea whether or not a police armorer polished the insides, I certainly did not.

And yes, the insides of all three are identical. Some parts could probably be interchanged.

Not a super scientific test, I only shot one target for each revolver. The rest of the afternoon was spent plinking at soup cans on the 25 yard berm, which is much more satisfying than punching paper.

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Which one handles better, the Model 10 or the K-38 Combat Masterpiece?

Hard to say. I am playing around with them right now, and I think I actually prefer the Model 10. With it's very thin tapered barrel, it is clearly lighter in my hand and less muzzle heavy. The Model 14, with it's heavy 6" barrel and rib is clearly more muzzle heavy and does not 'handle' as well in my hands. But it is really accurate.

Adjustable sights or fixed sights? I don't really care. I am very used to shooting with fixed sights from CAS. I actually never adjust the sights on any of my adjustable sighted revolvers. Once I have them where I want them I just leave them there. None of that adjusting for different loads for me, I use Kentucky windage.

Anyway, that's today's report.
 
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