Accurizing Kit for the Ruger MK IV

Lot's of alternatives but probably none as widely used as Volquartzen. I do not own a MK IV but have put many in other MK series handguns and they are a superb product. One thought, I was not thrilled with the polymer frame on my MK III 22/45 so I found a Volquartzen alloy frame complete with innards on sale and sold my no longer needed polymer frame on a forum and the overall cost of the Volquartzen upgrade was somewhat mitigated. A red dot reflex sight and if you have kids or grandkids, it will cost you a lot in ammo.

Oh yeah. That easy takedown feature comes at a price: Accuracy. My suggestion is to dump the MKIV at your LGS or a gun show and go buy yourself a MKII while you can still find one. Then install a Volquartsen hammer, trigger & sear. Problem solved!

I put this kit in mine.

https://volquartsen.com/products/354-accurizing-kit

It made a world of difference. The best thing in the kit is the bushing that lets you get rid of the pesky magazine disconnect.

I’m not going to shoot any pistol matches with my 22 either. But the kit makes the gun more funner to shoot. So, for me it’s worth the time and money to put it in.

And its not hard to put in yourself. If I can do, it anyone can.

TandemKross has a great many parts for the MK pistols, as well as the Victory and Buckmark.

I like their delete kits, too!

Theres nothing wrong with a MKIV, once properly Volked, or Tandemized.

I opted for a Volguartsen lower, very happy. Oops sorry , mine is a Mark lll

The Volquartsen sear, by itself, provides most of the improvement. IMO there is no need to get the complete kit. The main thing you want to do is get rid of that pesky magazine disconnect. You can use a Volquartsen sear, a Ruger Mark II hammer, and a Clark trigger.

whatnickname said:

Oh yeah. That easy takedown feature comes at a price: Accuracy.

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The takedown feature doesn't affect the accuracy. Accuracy mainly revolves around lightening and smoothing the trigger pull.

I’ve also been debating on getting the Volquartsen kit myself for my MVIV Tactical. It’s accurate but the trigger is holding it back. I’ve looked but I can’t find anyone that just sells the sear since I’ve also heard most of the improvement comes from it. I’ve looked at the Apex kit as well since it is cheaper, but it seems no one uses it since reviews are few and far between. I know it doesn’t lower the weight as much as the Volquartsen, but I’m just using it as a backyard target toy not a competitor except with myself.

sabbfan said:

I’ve looked but I can’t find anyone that just sells the sear since I’ve also heard most of the improvement comes from it.

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Volquartsen itself sells the sear for $30.

https://volquartsen.com/departments/mk_iv_parts/inventory_configurations/747

Now, I realize it says it's for the Mark II and III, and not for the Mark IV. Pay no attention to that. You're going to be replacing the hammer anyway, to get rid of the magazine disconnect. When you use the recommended Mark II hammer (and have no magazine disconnect), you basically have Mark II internals.

The hammer that comes with the Volquartsen kit is skeletonized. That may speed up the hammer fall, but it also means a lighter strike. I don't like the idea of a skeletonized hammer.

I also prefer the profile of the Clark trigger, as opposed to the odd-looking Volquartsen one. (Note: the trigger openings of certain Mark IV frames may have to be squared off with a needle file in order to use the Clark trigger. This is a 5 min. job.)

Another vote for trying just the sear and MKII bushing for the most bang for your buck....I use the factory triggers and drill holes for set screws to take out pre and post travel.

OP....There's no need to send the gun to VQ for an install for any part or the full kit. It is a fairly simple job. There are plenty of guides online to walk you through it.

If your Ruger has a good, crisp, trigger pull, install the Volquartsen trigger. It has take up and over travel adjustments. I wish I had installed a Tandemkross Victory trigger in my other MKII for comparison, I only recently found out about it. I would like to try a rough surface on the trigger face. I do prefer the Volquartsen extended safety and slide release to the factory versions.

I am going to pee all over the Volquartsen hammer and sear. I installed one and removed it. The trigger was better before. There was a lot of takeup and mush with the Volquarsten hammer and sear. It also took too long to install the things for me to attempt to file the surfaces to remove the creep. The first time I installed a Volquartsen trigger it took hours.

If you plan to replace the trigger, be certain to find a youtube video and watch it. Reassembly is not obvious, can only be done in sequence. I recommend placing a white sheet on the floor, wear an apron, and sit down. Springs and plungers will go flying and if you are standing up, they will go yards (hundreds it seemed) instead of feet. The white sheet will help you find them. I had a one foot magnetic tray in my lap.The apron rolled springs and parts to my lap, the magnetic tray caught the safety plunger and spring about 100 times. Maybe a 1000 times. I had real trouble with the safety plunger and spring, getting them in, and keeping them in as I pressed the hammer pin in. The plunger has a flat bottom and the safety hole was sharp edged. The plunger would hang up on the edge of the safety hole and go flying with the slightest movement. The spring tended to follow. It was very frustrating. I got better as I identified punches that fit exactly and I found a plastic handled brush to jam the safety in place while I installed the hammer and hammer pin.
And of course, when you get the hammer installed,that is when you find out the trigger return spring fell out!!!

I also had the sear spring pin fall out I learned to put a piece of duct tape over the ends.

Zero problems with TK...

ColtPythonElite said:

Another vote for trying just the sear and MKII bushing for the most bang for your buck.

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The spacer bushing takes up the space on the Mark III hammer that is used for the magazine disconnect. You don't need this if you just go ahead and use a Mark II hammer.

ColtPythonElite said:

....I use the factory triggers and drill holes for set screws to take out pre and post travel.

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One feature on the factory trigger is a "nub" on the back that engages a notch on the magazine. The purpose of this, as near as I can figure, is to raise a partially-inserted magazine into more positive engagement. The downside is that it increases the weight and roughness of the trigger pull. It's a solution to a non-existent problem.

Aftermarket triggers don't have the nub.

I keep a bag of earlier MK triggers around already drilled and tapped for set screws. I have only worked on a MK IV or two. I have done a pile of earlier guns, though. I get a pretty good trigger for minimal cash laid out.