1911 Plunger staking tool(s) question

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Detritus

Detritus

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As I posted last month I need to replace the Plunger tube on my 1911. and since I know that I will always own at least one 1911, and more likely many. i'm contemplating going ahead and buying a staking tool instead of borrowing one.
Right now the only three I can seem to find are the EGW, Strobel, and Brownells, and I'd like the opinions of others regarding any or all three. Especially would like to know if the Brownells one is worth nearly twice as much.

At the current moment I'm leaning toward the Strobel, because is seems more straightforward and controllable than the EGW (I.E. you tighten a screw instead of whacking the tool with a hammer), and as noted it's almost half the price of the, similar in function, Brownells branded tool.

As always any info or advice is welcome TIA
 
I have both the Strobel and the old Tom Wilson tool which is what EGW is making now. As much as I like all things EGW, the Strobel is a better tool.

More important than the tool is frame prep and a plunger tube with proper length legs (actually hollow rivets). Chamfer the frame hole to give room for the legs to expand. Otherwise the plunger tube will work loose. Often they are inadequately chamfered or not chamfered at all. Ensure that your plunger tube has legs that are long enough to go full (or at least nearly full) thickness of the frame. Doing both of those will do more to keep your plunger tube in place than tool choice. A drop of Loctite on each leg doesn't hurt either.
 
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I have used the OLD brownells tool (modified vise grip) the new brownells tool, and the strobel tool.

Bill speaks the truth regarding proper frame prep - the holes inside the Magwell need a good chamfer so that the legs have somewhere to be swaged into. The ball end cutters dremel sells (192 on the package) work well for this task.

That being said for low volume work the strobe will suit you fine, and the staking point is hardened which is a must when performing this job. I have used the brownells tool and found out quickly that sometimes they dont harden the crimping point. Not sure if they had fixed this as i had run into this when the tool first came out. Buying a few set screws, grinding a point on them and heat treating the screws solved that issue.

Red loctite is your friend in this case, a dab in each frame hole, and a light bead on the back flat of the plunger tube before crimping and wipe away the excess. Wait 24 hrs and that bugger shouldnt come loose. Be sure to use the plunger tube support on the inside so you don't swage the legs into the I.d. of the tube.
 
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Got the parts and Strobel tool from Midway yesterday.
went to the workshop to test fit the tube before work this afternoon, and the blasted thing just barely wont fit!!

gonna have to take another look when i have more time to fiddle with it tomorrow...
 
after your done, make sure your grips cover the plunger tube. My sprinfield has had a loose tube for 10 years, thousands of rounds, but tight handmade grips make it a non issue. There is a weird trend now of having the grips stop and offer no support.
 
Detritus said:
Got the parts and Strobel tool from Midway yesterday.
went to the workshop to test fit the tube before work this afternoon, and the blasted thing just barely wont fit!!

gonna have to take another look when i have more time to fiddle with it tomorrow...
Click to expand...

Tool won't fit? new tube won't fit?

What kind of 1911 do you have?
 
Do the holes in the frame not line up with the legs of the tube, Or are the holes too narrow to accept the tube legs?

If you still have the original tube compare it to the new one. In extreme cases you may be able to re-stake the old tube if the legs arent broken. But it is best to replace the tube.

What make is the plunger tube?
 
drband said:
Metro's are pretty nice shooting 1911s from the ones I've seen. You might call their CS and ask for a new plunger tube, they might even send you one for free!
Click to expand...

well this one went 9 years and over 20k rounds, with a plunger tube that had a defect in the legs (more on this below) before breaking. I'm very satisfied with it's performance, especially since i bought it as a project gun.

calling Metro CS is my backup position if i can't coax the new tube on.

JRadice45 said:
Do the holes in the frame not line up with the legs of the tube, Or are the holes too narrow to accept the tube legs?

If you still have the original tube compare it to the new one. In extreme cases you may be able to re-stake the old tube if the legs arent broken. But it is best to replace the tube.

What make is the plunger tube?
Click to expand...

New tube is an Ed Brown, each leg fits in it's hole, but either the frame holes are too far apart, or the "inboard" surfaces of the legs are too close together, by "just enough" to prevent being able to get them both in at the same time.

can't reuse the old tube because both legs broke off. Upon inspection of the tube and leg stumpd, it appears to have been MIM or cast, and to have had defects/voids in both legs. front leg was attached only at a spot in the center, and the rear by a front to back strip of about 1/3 width.

I literally chamber checked the gun after taking it out of its bag, and the tube fell on the desk in front of me, first indication of any problem.
 
It might be helpful to know whether the frame or plunger tube is out of spec. Blueprint call for .8016"+/- .0010" center to center on the frame holes and .8016"+/- .0003" center to center on the plunger tube legs (yes, those +/- tolerances are correct). The diameter of the plunger tube legs is spec'd at .098" + .000"/- .003" with a hole diameter of .050" + .015"/ - .000" and hole depth of .060". Should be a .015" radius at the root of the legs where they join the plunger tube body. Although not called out on the plans that root radius would require a small chamfer on the out side of the frame holes for clearance. Center of the front leg should be .180" + .000"/ - .010" from the front face of the plunger tube.
 
Well, after a little coaxing and very careful application of 400 grit sandpaper to the inside faces of the legs, tube is on the gun. but i'll share some before pics (after pics got skipped have to make some later), to show what I was dealing with.
20191026_231331.jpg 20191026_231350.jpg

As you can hopefully see, when I said that it just barely wouldn't fit, I meant it. in the end I got both legs to start and it was a firm press fit to the frame, staked the legs, and for a little extra insurance added a little bit of cardboard shim between the tube and the grip panel. Reassembly with the new detents and spring was a little bit of an adventure as well, looks like the old set used shorter detents and a longer but weaker spring. I might even have to break down and get a detent tool or grind a "starter groove" in my slide stop.
 
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