Resizing Lubricant...Anyone make their own?

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whatnickname

whatnickname

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I’ve been reloading for better than 50 years. Used to shoot competitively. I wish I had kept records as to just how many rounds I’ve reloaded...tens of thousands to be sure. Started off using Lyman case lube...the stuff that came in the tube. Remember that? Learned the hard way years ago that the lube pad I used with this stuff was a good place to accumulate grit that would eventually make its way on to your cases and inside the die resulting in a badly scored resizing die. I’ve used all manner of spray lubricants, liquid resizing lubes, automotive lubricants (STP), beef suet and even K-Y Jelly...which will get you some strange looks when your wife sees that sitting on your work bench. Some of that stuff worked better than others and some was just a bad idea (STP & K-Y Jelly). The last 20+ years I’ve gravitated toward the stuff that comes in tubs or snuff sized tins...Hornady, Redding etc. I find it easier to apply the lube with my fingers. I can get just the right amount on my cases and, provided I clean my resizing die before the start of each session, this is the best way to control lube build-up and avoid oil dents. Resized a quantity of 270 brass yesterday using Redding case lube ( the stuff in the tin ) and started thinking. Their profit margins on that stuff has got to be the into the thousands of percents. Got to be fairly easy to make right? Anyone out there make their own case lube that is similar to the stuff in the tin? If so, what’s your recipe?
 
I don't know about DIY case lube that replaces imperial lube, which is mostly lanolin if I remember correctly...most DIY case lube involves 99% isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin or Lee lube. I use 12:1 alcohol to lanolin ratio for bottle neck brass, while I use 8:1 alcohol to Lee lube ratio for pistol brass. Mix the lube in that ratio in a spray pump bottle. Make sure to shake well to mix the content. Lee lube I find you have to shake for quite a while before it complely mixes in with the alcohol.

In both cases I use a gallon Ziploc bag to apply. Dump the brass into the ziploc bag, pump a few sprays into the bag, close it and toss the brass around inside the bag. Dump it out and let dry a minute and you are ready to resize. Lanolin lube had to be removed after realizing. I just leave the Lee lube on since it is very light coat for pistol applications in a progressive press.
 
Well I do make my own spray lube as mentioned in the above post, it's great for lubing lots of cases at one time. I'm a fan of case lube in the tins also such as Imperial Sizing Wax an Hornady Unique Case Lube and have been using the same tin for a few years.

Also, I have found no adverse affects from using it is KIWI Mink Oil paste, it works the same as any of the tin based lubes, larger tin, cheaper and can be found at almost any retail store that sells those type products.
 
I've experimented, and haven't found anything hand-applied as effective as Imperial (that's not significantly messier).

For large-batch spray lube, I make 1:8ish lanolin in 99% isopropyl.
 
Caster oil and anhydrous lanolin in a 1 to 2 ratio. Started make it to swage bullets with, now I use it to jacketed swage bullets and size cases.
 
hdbiker said:
Why bother, a 2 oz tin of Imperial costs around 7 bucks and will last for years, best lube I've ever used. !!! hdbiker
Click to expand...

Spray lube is faster and easier to apply to cases. I put cases in zip lock bag then spray cases and roll them around in the bag, I do a few hundred at a time.

For about $10 a guy can make about 20 ounces of spray lube that will last through 1000's upon 1000's of rounds. A bottle of spray lube for the bulk stuff and a tin of Imperial for the small lots will set a guy up for years of resizing.
 
Lee lube and 99% isopropyl alcohol.

I squirt about an inch of lube in a 4oz spray bottle. Fill with the alcohol. Shake (a LOT) to get it in suspension. I spread out a layer of brass on a cookie sheet, spray 3 or 4 times on the brass. Roll it over, spray it again. Dry in a minute or so.

No need to clean it off after sizing. It leaves just a pale whitish layer of a waxy lube. Works very well, and stone cheap.
 
RCBS case lube mixed with alcohol is what's on my bench at the moment. It's been there for a while, have not found anything better. I guess its only half home brewed, but it works
 
Yes I use a no name lube, most of my reloading can be done with any lube. I have more RCBS lube than I will use in a lifetime but there are times it does not work on difficult to from/size cases. When I try and help smiths and reloaders form cases they insist I leave my no name lube at home. They insist on using Dillon in a can or bottle or Imperial. I have a lot of trouble making Imperial and or Dillon look good when forming some wildcat cases.

And there are those that I have tried to help believe all cases are alike; there are times they wanted to borrow 'the other #4 RCBS shell holder' with me I brought a small gasket cutting hammer.
F. Guffey
 
I go the lanolin/ iso mix. Like a previous post said, put cases in a zip lock bag and spray (after shaking) about 3 or short skirts into the bag, seal the bag and then shake it up and walla… lubed cases
 
I switched to the hand made mentioned above and never turned back. I apply it with an Off Bug Spray bottle. The spray bottle makes a light mist. I spray 50 or so cases at a time and let them sit for 4-5 minutes.
 
How effective do you find the spray + bag method for lubing the inside of case necks? I find full length sizing much harder if I don't get some lube inside the case necks. PS I've been using Imperial sizing wax for the past 8 years (same tin!).
 
I've always used Dillon Case Lube but have made my own using liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol. I found that a 12-1 mix is nearly the same as Dillon. I still use my lube pad. Spray a squirt on the pad and roll many cases until it needs another squirt. As far as the case neck, I spray or roll a RCBS nylon neck brush with lube and lube the necks.
 
I went the route of making my own. Imperial Die Wax is pretty inexpensive, and as stated above, lasts a long time.

Suggestion---- do NOT try to put anything with lanolin down your drain. It is going to harden up and clog. THAT was the convincing moment for my going back to Imperial.
 
For years, I used the pad lubing method with various lubes. Messy. A few years back, I tried the lanolin and Heet combination and never looked back.
 
I use to use the Hornady One shot spray can at $10 a pop.

Now I use the Lanolin and Red bottle of Heet dry gas. Ten to one ration.
I use the plastic container from a McDonals Big Breakfast. Put a bunch of cases in it, maybe fifty or sixty of them a couple of squirts from a spray bottle.
Rool them around, another squirt or to, roll them around and put them in the top of the McDonalds container and do another batch. Put them with the others to sit a few minutes.
When I resize them I wipe the necks off with a paper towel and use Imperial resizing on the necks.
After resizing I wipe the cases off with a paper towel.
 
Lanolin and Heat for me, I use universal decapping die then use walnut with polish then put cases in gallon zip lock bag 2 sprays and move around in the bag then spray and move around again, dump them on a tray and let them dry, I also use a q-tip and put some inside the neck about every 2 or 3 cases. After checking length I put them in ultrasonic to clean everything off or back in walnut and polish before priming
 
I use lanolin and alcohol for resizing. I use to hand lube each case but it seemed to add a lot more time to the process. Now I have a cardboard box. I put in a bunch of cases, give them a squirt and roll them around to get full coverage. The only issue I can have is if I over lube them. Then I get dents in the shoulders.
 
as mentioned a number of times, Dillon Bootleg lube (12 to 1, 99% Isopropyl to Liquid Lanolin)
 
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