Taming a beast.

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Ryan Rushing

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What's some ways to add weight to the front of a hunting rifle. I have a rem700 300wsm. I'm a pretty big boy so the recoil doesn't bother me. I believe the muzzle jump is hurting me on accuracy. And I really don't care to have a compensator put on it. Right now I've added a bipod, a limbsaver barrel tuner, and have ordered a larger scope. I can lay prone and it will bring the legs of the bipod off the ground.
 
Why not a heavier aftermarket stock? You could also cut channels in the stock and add lead. But that seems labor intensive without the proper tooling. However, I don’t think weight is your problem. Recoil doesn’t have to hurt to cause a flinch. I’d try free floating the barrel or glass bedding. What kind of groups are you getting? You may get better accuracy simply from changing ammunition.
 
All my rifles are free-floated and pillar-bedded. I make my own pillars, sometimes from old rifle barrels.

If you're not getting good groups from the bench, especially with a light, hunting-caliber rifle try holding the forend down on the front bag with one hand and pulling back to your shoulder with your grip hand, with thumb pressure down on the stock. A sand bag (bank bag) behind the butt can cut felt recoil from the bench and help get better groups.
 
put a dead mule in the butt stock under the butt plate and tape one to the barrel on the underside just in front of the forestock. no more harsh recoil at all. if you buy 2 good ones make sure they are high end ones. can be found in several places on the internet. they have calmed a lot of guns for me.
 
@Picher has good tips for technique and that is how I handle a jumper on the bench. If you’re shooting prone with a pod then, like it or not, you ought to consider a compensator to reduce movement along with increased loading of the bipod if you aren’t already.

This isn’t a matter of pride in being able to absorb magnum recoil to your shoulder but of redirecting force to keep the muzzle as level as possible and therefore on target. Keeping on target between rounds tends to translate into better groups made otherwise trickier by having to reset aiming point. That means you’re either scooting the rifle around or scooting your entire body around.

If adding a comp is out of the question then consider a second swivel stud or rail adapter to which you can fasten additional weight.
 
Driving a heavy recoiling light weight gun is challenging, make sure your ergonomics are good (eye relief on the scope, length of pull, cheek weld) and then review how you set up, I’f the rifle is hopping off the ground, there is an element of your technique that can be improved, pull the rifle more firmly into the shoulder pocket, and square your body to the rifle, not prone like the little green army man at an angle. The angle in traditional prone is for the support hand to reach and support the rifle. Off a bipod this is unhelpful because it creates angles for recoil to exploit

How well is the gun shooting anyway?
 
The bullet exits the muzzle before recoil moves the point of aim. Otherwise we would never hit anything with our rifles.

Make sure all action screws are tight, use a modern copper fouling remover, and use proper follow through. Those three things usually solve 90% of accuracy problems.
 
It shoots well when I'm holding the forearm. Which I feel comfortable doing out to 200yds. Anything further I'd like to use my off hand to stabilize the stock. That's when it likes to play hop scotch.
 
You need to load your bipod, dig those feet in and push forward on the buttstock with light to moderate pressure. I shoot a 200gr bullets out of my WSM at 2850 ft/s and if there is a flaw in how I mount the rifle for a shot, it will jump. @z7 makes a good point on ergonomics, your spine needs to be parallel to the rifle bore so that recoil comes straight back into your body. Use that as a training aide to evaluate how you're body is situated.
 
Your bullet has left the barrel before the muzzle rises. More than likely the issue is a “flinch”. No shame in it. It is easy to correct. I am having to work on the same issue now. After shooting strictly suppressed rifles for years, I’ve picked up deer hunting again and bought a few bolt action rifles with non-threaded barrels. The muzzle blast initially caused me to flinch. I just wasn’t used to the sound after running quiet rifles for so long. It took me a few rounds to figure out what was going on.
 
300 WSM recoil is only slightly more than 30-06 in the same weight rifle. It almost exactly splits the difference between 30-06 and 300 WM with the same weight bullets so recoil isn't extreme. My guess is that something in your technique needs improvement.
 
With a 24" barrel and projectile traveling at 2800 fps, it will take .0007 seconds (seven ten thousandths of a second) for the projectile to be free from the barrel. As has been stated, look at your technique.

If I wanted more weight, I'd have the barrel threaded and have the machine shop make a hollow several oz. weight to screw on. (ala Ruger Guide Gun)
 
readyeddy said:
The bullet exits the muzzle before recoil moves the point of aim.
Click to expand...
Try free recoiling a rifle versus a firm hold, does the point of impact change? Two different shooters in the same rifle, different point of impact?

yes because recoil does not happen only after the bullet leaves. It is an incredibly fast impulse, but how you manage it matters. Shooting my 16lb 308, how i manage recoil will move my shots by an inch at 100yds. That doesn’t matter when shooting a deer at 75 yds but it sure ruins a nice group
 
I would think that you are too low on the butt stock - the recoil is jumping the muzzle because the muzzle is too high. Raise your butt stock a tad and add more straight line to your recoil, the muzzle should then want to recoil back instead of up - it is your geometry (I think).
 
readyeddy said:
The bullet exits the muzzle before recoil moves the point of aim.
Click to expand...
marksman13 said:
Your bullet has left the barrel before the muzzle rises.
Click to expand...
No. Recoil begins as soon as the bullet starts accelerating. Degree of effect depends on mass (bullet and rifle), and transit time.

If you don't achieve consistent forend recoil (muzzle rise):
- in heavy .223 class rifle, they effect is slight enough that it won't cause more than ~0.5 MOA effect.
- in a .270 hunting weight rifle, you'll experience a couple MOA effect.
- in a .375H&H hunting rifle, you'll miss the target, and maybe the burm.

Since free-recoil is not practical for a hunting rifle, you need to provide consistent restraint.

Ryan Rushing said:
I can lay prone and it will bring the legs of the bipod off the ground.
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More restraint than that! Bullets are supposed to fly, not bipods. Get your off hand onto the forend, get a grip, plant your elbow, and consistently hold it down.
 
Ryan Rushing said:
It shoots well when I'm holding the forearm. Which I feel comfortable doing out to 200yds. Anything further I'd like to use my off hand to stabilize the stock. That's when it likes to play hop scotch.
Click to expand...
Full agreement with orcon, and adding that gripping the sling and torquing a Lil more down pressure to that pod with your left hand (especially if you're on a surface that won't allow the pod to dig) you can still use your left hand for support. Years before I ever had pods wrapping the sling and torquing to elbow over knee (sitting) or pack (prone) or elbow to hip (standing) my muzzle (even on rockin 180-220 300 wm loads) wouldn't demonstrate what you're describing. Master a consistent for and the groups will show it.
 
welcome to the high road, ryan rushing.

don't fight the recoil once you get set. let the rifle come back into your shoulder without you pushing back.

regarding the bipod legs: if you are shooting on a hard surface, put a jacket (or something that will allow the legs to slide back) down between the legs and the ground. the legs must be able to come straight back.

luck,

murf
 
edwardware said:
Since free-recoil is not practical for a hunting rifle, you need to provide consistent restraint
Imagining someone trying to free recoil my 6lb 35 Whelen made me laugh. I bet you wouldn't have a trigger finger left.
I agree with Captcurt. My shooting with a bipod is abissmal. I never took the time to learn it because I hunt where is useless.
I also agree with the guys who say something besides just weight is wrong. But more weight only breaks bridges and camel's backs.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I can't really visualize a 300 WSM as a beast. Mine is a 6 1/4 lb Savage 10 and although the recoil is not fun off of the bench, it is manageable. I had a 5 1/2 lb Kimber that had a really sharp recoil and it was only a 257 Roberts. If you want a beast try a 300 or 338 RUM off of the bench. Both kicked my hat off and I had it screwed down tight. Brutal!
 
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