new wrangler fit question

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old fart

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I just bought a new wrangler from Rural King on November 2nd, finally found one. I had to get the display model but was told they got them in on the 1st and they hadn't been handled much. I called Ruger and found that it was made in October so it was as new as It could be I guess. My question is on the fit of the grip frame next to the hammer. the area whare there is a screw on each side of the hammer connecting the grip frame. well if you point the gun away from you and you run your fingers from the trigger guard on up, on the left side everything seems flush with the cylinder frame. on the right side everything is flush till you get up next to where the hammer is and the grip frame is just slightly out farther than the cylinder frame. its not much but I can feel it, if i look at it it is hard to tell but can see its not flush smooth. I know its just a $200 gun which it was $201.50 out the door. and the area is too slight for me to not want it but i was just wondering if anyone elses has slight fit issues? the finish on the other hand is excellent and the ceracoat is complete with not one single flake.
 
For a $200 revolver, the hand quality QA/QC is going to be limited to does it cycle and shoot OK and not a few 1000's of grip frame fitment issues.

The Single-Six product line may be more appropriate to your quality expectations.

Yes I have come to realize that for $200 that fit may not be perfect but its not bad and like i said the finish is excellent which i do like. I got the wrangler because the single six is outside my budget. the gun shoots straight with taking a half bead and hold dead on. I called Ruger and they said if its a bad fit which it ain't that they would fix it, so I am good, just wondered if others may have one like mine. also Ruger told me the single six grip frame would fit if I wanted to buy one and put on it, but for now i am good. first single action i have owned in years. thanks
 
I had a Blackhawk a few years ago where the grip frame was fitted a bit high in this area.
These are Ruger's bread and butter guns, and made in large numbers, but not exactly cheap.
But, it wasn't enough to bother me. The blued Blackhawks are working guns.
So, on a $200.00 Wrangler, it wouldn't bother me at all.
 
I don't know but I was told the grip frames will fit. I was also told the torque setting on the screws are different because of the aluminum frame vs steel, so if you do try it don't over tighten the screws.

If you are swapping out grip frames, this would be good advice. But then, the screws only need to be snug.
As for removing the grip frame for cleaning, it might never be necessary. I have owned more than a few Blackhawks, Super Blackhawks, and Single Sixes, and only ever disassembled an old 1978 Blackhawk to replace a pawl. The coil and music wire springs will probably never break or weaken, and fouling just doesn't migrate into the action. A shot of light oil from a syringe through the frame openings is all that is needed.
 
Very coincidentally I was given the Wrangler a close look-over yesterday. Thought about picking one up for a fun gun. I would REALLY appreciate your review/recommendation.
 
Very coincidentally I was given the Wrangler a close look-over yesterday. Thought about picking one up for a fun gun. I would REALLY appreciate your review/recommendation.

If you are interested I did a head to head review/comparison of the Wrangler and HRR (both NIB) a week ago. It is probably fallen to page 2 by now. I will be updating that post soon with my observations after a couple hundred more rounds.
 
I looked through the owner's manual on the Ruger website for the Wrangler. While some of the internal parts are the same as those used in the Single Six, like springs and plungers I would guess, some are lower cost Wrangler versions of the same parts, such as the hammer.
There is also one additional part called the pawl guide. This is simply a small flat steel stamping with a loop formed in one end that the trigger pivot pin passes through. My guess is that it fits up inside the pawl channel in the frame and provides a smooth surface for the "toothed" part of the pawl to slide on.
Since the pawl is under forward spring tension, this might be to protect the softer aluminum frame from wear, or it might simply be there to avoid the need to polish this area of the investment casting by hand.
 
I have 4 Ruger revolvers and all of them have a slight misalignment on the grip frame. It's not enough to bug me, they all are great shooters.
 
I haven't fired one yet, but from handling one at the gun shop I'd say it seems to be a great product for the price.
 
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