Might as well start reloading .357 Sig...

Status
Not open for further replies.

WrongHanded

Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2017
Messages
4,771
...and so I need some advice from you fine folks.

I'll be reloading on a Lee Classic Turret. Any reason not to use Lee dies? Is the FCD worth getting? Or should I maybe consider a carbide .40S&W resizing die? I read somewhere that using one can be helpful and maybe avoid needing case lube. Any truth to that?

I believe there's a device for checking cartridge seating, like the plunk test in the barrel chamber, but a separate piece of machined steel. I have no idea what it's called. Can anyone help with that?

Is Acc#9 a good powder choice, or are their better options? I'm not looking for reduced loads, just full power, and really just one load right now.

I want to use 125gr bullets. Plated, or jacketed? I'd prefer to keep it simple and just use one brand and style. They will be for range practice, and maybe (I say maybe because I have other, better options) for a passable woods load.
 
I believe there's a device for checking cartridge seating, like the plunk test in the barrel chamber, but a separate piece of machined steel. I have no idea what it's called. Can anyone help with that?

Case gauge.

I want to use 125gr bullets. Plated, or jacketed? I'd prefer to keep it simple and just use one brand and style. They will be for range practice, and maybe (I say maybe because I have other, better options) for a passable woods load.

Jacketed. RMR has several .355 bullets with a short nose (what the 357 SIG requires), and they are low cost. Hard to beat for the money.
 
Plated is only good to about 1100-1200fps and you'll be going faster than that with a full load. I'm afraid I can't offer much advice on dies, techniques or powder though since 357 isn't one of my calibers. I'm sure reinforcements will be along shortly.

L.e. Wilson offers a very good case gauge
 
I use a 357 Sig sizing die with lubricant but my normal practice is to tumble cases after sizing and expanding even when using carbide dies.

Also, I taper crimp the rounds in a separate step from seating the bullets.

I do not find loading 357 Sig any more difficult than any other handgun cartridge. I also load 38/45 Clerke, another bottle neck auto pistol cartridge based on the 45 ACP case.
 
...and so I need some advice from you fine folks.

I'll be reloading on a Lee Classic Turret. Any reason not to use Lee dies? Is the FCD worth getting? Or should I maybe consider a carbide .40S&W resizing die? I read somewhere that using one can be helpful and maybe avoid needing case lube. Any truth to that?

I believe there's a device for checking cartridge seating, like the plunk test in the barrel chamber, but a separate piece of machined steel. I have no idea what it's called. Can anyone help with that?

Is Acc#9 a good powder choice, or are their better options? I'm not looking for reduced loads, just full power, and really just one load right now.

I want to use 125gr bullets. Plated, or jacketed? I'd prefer to keep it simple and just use one brand and style. They will be for range practice, and maybe (I say maybe because I have other, better options) for a passable woods load.
I'm fairly new at 357 SIG reloading. So take what I say with a grain of salt. :)
I do use a 40/10 sizing die at the 1st step. I have an RCBS (2-piece) and the Lee die set. Besides the powder through die with Lee, they both are about equal. The Lee sizing die gives about -.001 neck size, compared to RCBS. But I'm sure that varies set to set to some degree.
Minimal bell mouthing is important. But you may have already read that.
Western Powder does list #9 load data for a 125 gr. Sierra FMJ. I have only tried Longshot, CFE-P, and maybe Blue Dot.
I agree with others about fmj instead of plated. Just because I'd want the best neck tension I could get. But my experience with plated is with softer lead cores.

Wish you the best and be safe.
 
Sheridan Engineering sells what they call a slotted case gauge. Supposed to be minimum chamber dimension. Not really necessary and not cheap, about $50, but I like them. Of course using you own barrel for the plunk test is probably the best thing you can do.
 
Never loaded 357 sig. But have loaded a bunch of other pistol loads.

The make of dies is a personal choice. I use mostly RCBS dies becauce of trrir great customer service and and fast, free die replacement and free technical help.

Sizing with carbide dies you don't need to lube the cased, but i do any ways. It does make resizing a litle easier in my oppinion.

At that velocity use stay away from plated projectiles and use full metal jackets (FMJ)

GOOD LUCK.
 
I have never sized 357sig but with all my other pistol rnds I polish them first with walnut media and car polish that leaves them slick
 
Reloading 357 SIG is no different than reloading any bottle neck cartridge ....

I started loading it way back ....I lube with a spray lube ... putting brass in a gallon Ziploc bag ...a few sprays of lube ....roll the brass around to spread the lube around ... I use a Redding .40S&W G-Rx steel die that I run the brass through first ....then through a RCBS steel sized die ...

I seat Hornady XTP 124 & 147 grain along with the 124 grain RMR bullet that is suitable for use with the 357 SIG ....

I have used many different powders ....AA#9 is a great beginners powder ..... HS6, Longshot, 800X(hard to meter but gives great velocity)... all work well ....
 
Check out some of the posts from Vaalpens.
He has quite a few on loading the .357 Sig here on THR.
He has posted load results chrono/accuracy for some of his loads as well as how tos.

I seem to recall him getting good results with RMR bullets, don't remember if it was the MPRs or the Match winners.
Remember RMR offers THR members a 5% discount with the code.
PM me if you need it.

Have fun with the .357 Sig!
 
I too use .40 cal sizing die for the case body, then the .357SIG sizing die for the neck. I have not found a better bullet than Montana Gold's plated bullets for this caliber. A bit spendy, but the best quality I have found, with my guns. I also use MG for my 50-yard bullseye competition loads in .45 auto. IMHO, the Lee FCD is always worth using if you want a consistent group.
 
Update:

I got Lee dies and their factory crimp die. I also got a case gauge, 500 starline cases, 1000 RMR 124gr FMJ-FP bullets, 1lb of Power Pistol and already had CCI 500 primers.

The cases needed minimal sizing, and the necks actually put the head below flush in both the case gauge and the KKM .357 SIG barrel I have for my G23. I hoped the extractor would hold them where they needed to be (and it did).

I made a couple dummy rounds, but couldn't seem to avoid bullet set back with multiple chamberings of the dummies. A single chambering set the bullet back up to 0.007" but I figured that'd be okay with less than a max charge, as I started at an OAL of 1.140".

Anyhow, I tried 10 rounds each at 7.5gr, 7.8gr, and 8.1gr. I had to adjust the seating depth down a little, because the crimping seemed to increase it. I'd had a few at 1.142" but they still chambered. I put almost no flare on the cases, but did chamber the inside of the mouths just a little. I tuned the crimp die in to what I think is a pretty heavy crimp, but the instructions do say 25lbs of down force at a minimum on the end of the stroke. I know it was more than that but it wasn't lifting me out of my seat.

So they all went bang and not boom, everything fed and extracted correctly, and I even found most of my brass afterwards. The groupings at 25yds from bags weren't great, but the best (and I do mean best) I've managed with that gun previously was 2-1/8" with factory ammo. Possibly it's me and the Trijicon HD sights not getting along too well. The groups I got (discounting the odd flier) were all within 3".

IMG_20191130_164122966.jpg

Not exactly great, but I suppose it could have been worse. I think more than anything they show that I'm not terribly accurate with this gun even off of bags.

I'll been dialing it in a little more now, then chrono testing. Thanks everyone!!
 
I'd call that fairly well done for your first effort. It may take a little effort to dial things in still but so far so good. Remember some barrels dont play good with some bullets. If you can't get things accurate try another brand of bullet or a different propellant. This might make all the difference in accuracy. Just sayin.:)
 
Looks like fine accuracy to me from a gun designed for in close fighting.

Maybe try a slower powder to get a compressed charge to prevent bullet setback?
 
WrongHanded, invest in the Factory Crimp Die for the 357 SIG, I plan on reloading for my Springfield XD 357 soon as well loading 125gr. JHP and using AA#7 and AA#9 powders.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top