Replace Primers?

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ThomasT

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I posted that I recently bought a new Ruger American 243 and had a lot of ammo on hand. But some of the ammo was just neck sized for the Remington 243 I just sold and it won't fit in the Ruger chamber. So I just took close to 100 rounds apart (all but 3 because my puller broke:fire:) and I am asking if you guys would recommend replacing the primers or should they be reusable?

I can pull the decapping pin on the resizer die and resize the brass without knocking out the primers. Or should I go ahead and knock out the primers and replace those? I am inclined to just reuse the primers and go from there. Your opinions are appreciated.
 
Those were just the kind of answers I was hoping to hear. And I never anneal cases. I read an article on doing that and if you get it wrong you can ruin the brass. But thanks for the thought.
 
Get a collet bullet puller. It's much easier than the hammer and it's easier to save your bullet, case and powder. There is no need to remove the primers. Then run the cases through the body die or a full length die with the de-primer pin removed from the die. .
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=collet+bullet+puller&userItemsPerPage=48

If you had a body die you would not of had to pull the bullets. Lube them with some Hornady Unique and run them through the body die. Just keep in mind you must make sure there is nothing at the primer end of your press and DO NOT lean over the round as you resize it. Not everyone wants to do that and there is some risk. If this bothers you in anyway, pull the bullets.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=body+die&userItemsPerPage=48

If you only have a neck die the body die will work in place of the full length resizer. The body die does not resize the neck, only the case body. The body die will not have a de-capping mechanism. You will need to neck size and de-prime with your neck sizer. Or, removed the de-priming pin and neck size with the primer in place. Bottom line is a collet bullet puller and a body die pay for themselves in lost time alone. And of course, safety glasses. Static electricity is NOT your friend. I can't help but think that the hammer and the pounding has to be creating some static electricity. Especially if your reloading room is dry and cool.
kwg
 
Those were just the kind of answers I was hoping to hear. And I never anneal cases. I read an article on doing that and if you get it wrong you can ruin the brass. But thanks for the thought.
You can also gently remove the primers then reinstall after sizing, provided the anvil is still centered in the primer cup. Ive done that lots of times since taking the pin out of Lee dies is kind of a pain. Never had one misfire after knocking it out of a case and then reinstalling it.
As for the annealing, yes you can screw up cases if you don't do it properly, but when it's done properly, it definitely adds consistency. For instance say you have a bunch of brass that's been fired multiple times. If you were to have a couple that have only been fired once and several that have been fired five times and they've never been annealed, then they are going to have drastically different neck tensions and that will lead too much larger group sizes. Before I size any rifle cases other than brand new cases, they get annealed every time. That way I always have consistent neck tension that's the same as all the others of the same headstamp. It's not at all hard to do and it definitely makes my group sizes smaller as well as making my brass last much longer.
 
I posted that I recently bought a new Ruger American 243 and had a lot of ammo on hand. But some of the ammo was just neck sized for the Remington 243 I just sold and it won't fit in the Ruger chamber. So I just took close to 100 rounds apart (all but 3 because my puller broke:fire:) and I am asking if you guys would recommend replacing the primers or should they be reusable?

I can pull the decapping pin on the resizer die and resize the brass without knocking out the primers. Or should I go ahead and knock out the primers and replace those? I am inclined to just reuse the primers and go from there. Your opinions are appreciated.
I ve done that many times with the decapping pin removed.
 
Yes, you can reuse the primers but...there is a chance some sizing lube might get to them while sizing your brass to the new chamber even if you are careful to avoid this. I would use them for range practice, casual shooting, etc, but wouldn't trust them on a hunt.
 
depends on the full length sizing die. pulling the decaping pin also pulls the expander on non-collet dies; so the die will reduce the neck diameter too much. you could then use an m die to expand the neck, I guess.

the collet sizer full length dies should work just fine for this scenario.

luck,

murf
 
If you can pull the decapping pin I agree with everyone else leave the primers. I had .308's that would not chamber in my rifle. I removed the bullets and bumped the shoulder back a little more with the primer in. Reloaded them and the shot just fine.

On RCBS dies you can remove the decapping pin so that you still have the neck sizer in the die.

If you had a body die you would not of had to pull the bullets. Lube them with some Hornady Unique and run them through the body die. Just keep in mind you must make sure there is nothing at the primer end of your press and DO NOT lean over the round as you resize it. Not everyone wants to do that and there is some risk. If this bothers you in anyway, pull the bullets.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=body+die&userItemsPerPage=48

Thanks. Never heard of a body die before. Thanks for the tip.

I agree with reusing the primers. What about the powder from the cases? Reusable?

The powder has been saved. Nothing wrong with the powder. I will reuse it.

depends on the full length sizing die. pulling the decaping pin also pulls the expander on non-collet dies; so the die will reduce the neck diameter too much. you could then use an m die to expand the neck, I guess.

On Lee dies you would lose the expander but on RCBS dies the decapping pin can be removed in case you break one you can replace it. I have done that before on a military case with crimped in primer that snuck in to a batch of regular brass. I have lots of small diameter wire I use on my model airplanes and just made a new decapping pin.

The cases are on their third reloading so I won't anneal the necks. Besides annealing them then dumping them over in water to cool would ruin the primers for sure. I am sure the neck tension will be same for each piece of brass. I have annealed brass before. Its a simple operation if its needed.

Thanks for all the tips and feedback.
 
In some cases you only have to raise the pin and button so it doesn't touch the primer. Then reset it later to deprime.

I've had in several occasions had to pull bullets from factory brass because of misfires. Resize brass, reprime, replace powder and reseat the bullet.
 
I once bought a bunch of pulldown Soviet production early 1950's 7.62x39 "brass". Out of almost 1000 cases I only had a couple of misfires and the cases looked like they'd been stored in a damp basement for years after the bullets were pulled.

They were copper washed steel and the cases had almost as much tarnish on the inside as they had on the outside.

If poorly stored 50 year old primers do that well, I can't see replacing new ones.
 
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Get a collet bullet puller. It's much easier than the hammer and it's easier to save your bullet, case and powder. There is no need to remove the primers. Then run the cases through the body die or a full length die with the de-primer pin removed from the die. .
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=collet+bullet+puller&userItemsPerPage=48

If you had a body die you would not of had to pull the bullets. Lube them with some Hornady Unique and run them through the body die. Just keep in mind you must make sure there is nothing at the primer end of your press and DO NOT lean over the round as you resize it. Not everyone wants to do that and there is some risk. If this bothers you in anyway, pull the bullets.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=body+die&userItemsPerPage=48

If you only have a neck die the body die will work in place of the full length resizer. The body die does not resize the neck, only the case body. The body die will not have a de-capping mechanism. You will need to neck size and de-prime with your neck sizer. Or, removed the de-priming pin and neck size with the primer in place. Bottom line is a collet bullet puller and a body die pay for themselves in lost time alone. And of course, safety glasses. Static electricity is NOT your friend. I can't help but think that the hammer and the pounding has to be creating some static electricity. Especially if your reloading room is dry and cool.
kwg
Great suggestion on the body die.

I was given 300 primed 223 cases. When I checked them in a headspace gauge it became apparent as to why they were given to me. They were long but I have a body die and it cleaned them right up. Filled them with powder and bullets, and shot them in my AR.
 
I have done this, and it works.

Yes. This isn't my first time to repair a screw up. In this case its not a screw up but just rounds that won't fit the chamber on the new gun. But on the plus side the chamber is so tight I have to crank the die down until it is against the shell holder so at least the brass shouldn't expand or stretch too much.

And I am going to load all of these with one bullet weight and powder. Field loads for field target practice with my new gun. I am not a target shooter. I like to sight in and then go shoot targets of opportunity at unknown ranges. I used to be on a lease where we could sit on a slope/hill and shoot down into a plowed field. I loved busting dirt clods at long range. It was a safe way to shoot and taught me about getting the feel for the rifle I was using. Something like this.



And this.

 
Ratshooter… what entertaining videos!!! You're a VERY good offhand shooter! I first thought the rifle was a youth model with the shorter barrel until you pointed out what your friend did to it. I too had and STILL have a Remington 700 bdl 243 and it IS a tack driver! But..... I totally agree with your assessment of the ruger. I bought one of those in both 243 and 7mm/08 and I was very surprised that both kept pace with my 700 as far as accuracy. I've killed many deer with 243's. Keep up the great shooting and if I can figure out how to post pics and things, i'll do it!
 
Only problem I can foresee is if you cannot remove the decapping pin and leave the expander in place.
 
Ratshooter… what entertaining videos!!! You're a VERY good offhand shooter! I first thought the rifle was a youth model with the shorter barrel until you pointed out what your friend did to it. I too had and STILL have a Remington 700 bdl 243 and it IS a tack driver! But..... I totally agree with your assessment of the ruger. I bought one of those in both 243 and 7mm/08 and I was very surprised that both kept pace with my 700 as far as accuracy. I've killed many deer with 243's. Keep up the great shooting and if I can figure out how to post pics and things, i'll do it!

I hate to break your heart Jeff but thats not me in the videos. Thats Hickok45, one of the biggest youtube posters out there and a great guy. He is a former school teacher too. Thats why he is so instructive. And heck yes he is an excellent shot with everything he gets his hands on.

Only problem I can foresee is if you cannot remove the decapping pin and leave the expander in place.

yes, suggest you measure the pin length before you fiddle with it, ratshooter. the neck diameter will be smaller, so that expander ball will be a tight fit. i'd take my time here.

These are RCBS dies and the decapping pin is just a short length of wire that can be removed from the expanding button. Its no big deal to do. But first I will see if I can raise it high enough in the die so it still reforms the neck without knocking out the primer like mentioned in post #16.
 
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