Surplus rifles

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And they were overpriced back then.



Bingo!

I cannot, for the life of me, understand the popularity of Mosin-Nagant rifles in this country. (Same applies to SKS etc.) I recall going to gun shows where there were trash cans full of Mosins, with a sign that said "Take your pick $50 ea." Invariably, after every gun show in our area, people would show up at the range with one, shoot an absolutely horrible group with a Mosin (I'm talking minute of barn side, shotgun pattern groups), and feel good about it.

How Jude Law ever managed to hit anything let alone kill Ed Harris with one is beyond reason.

I will never understand.

No you will not.

And not all shoot minute of barn......
 
I won't even post a Finnish M39 Mosin just run of the mill Russian ones I have. 1 MOA? no but hardly barn size groups in a 5 shot group, a 10 shot group is bigger but what gun isn't doing 10 shots except maybe a AR-15 or specialty bolt action.

Mosin 1939 Tula
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Izhevsk 1937
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Tula Hex 1928
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M91/59
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Russian M44
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Now quit doing that....let people live in their own little stereotype world.....perhaps we will hear how some people are lazy, stupid, born criminals....this or that car brand is junk....I wait for more of his....cough wisdom cough.
 
Actually, my hex-receiver Tula did pretty well after I performed an infantryman's accurizing job on it. I shimmed the receiver with pieces of flattened and shaped Berdan brass and wrapped the barrel under the last couple of inches of the handguard with BLO-soaked thin cotton cloth to stabilize that long, whippy barrel.
It'll never be a precision gun, but it'll get the job done.
 
MoM accurate...all it was needed to be...and easy to make.

But I get it however.... some people think it is a tomato stake....some think the 10-22 is...same deal
 
I love my surplus rifles.
Turks are my favorite.
Mosins are fun but a lot of the refurbs are not fitted to the stock well in the recoil lug area.
Felt bedding is an easy way to bed your Mosin without altering the stock.
You will need Felt and BLO. Cut a piece of felt to fit the rear of the action and another in the shape of a square cross to fit the recoil lug area.
This is what the piece for the recoil lug area should look like.
img004-1.gif

Wet the felt with BLO and set in place and put the rifle back together. Allow it to sit for a few days to dry and then you are good to go.
 
I love my surplus rifles.
Turks are my favorite.
Mosins are fun but a lot of the refurbs are not fitted to the stock well in the recoil lug area.
Felt bedding is an easy way to bed your Mosin without altering the stock.
You will need Felt and BLO. Cut a piece of felt to fit the rear of the action and another in the shape of a square cross to fit the recoil lug area.
This is what the piece for the recoil lug area should look like.
View attachment 871192

Wet the felt with BLO and set in place and put the rifle back together. Allow it to sit for a few days to dry and then you are good to go.


seems to me I recall the Finns using cork....
 
One subtle way to spot a true Enfield #5 Jungle: look just Forward of the magazine well.

The metal contour/shape doesn't quite parallel, or match the shape of the wood's contour. This is exactly the same shape on my Enfield #4s.
On both of my true #5 Jungles, the metal contour was a bit of a narrower, partial "figure eight".

To clarify, not the mag well, but the area immed. Forward of it.
Even Charles Stratton's Lee-Enfield book (soft red covers) never mentions this.
 
One subtle way to spot a true Enfield #5 Jungle: look just Forward of the magazine well.

The metal contour/shape doesn't quite parallel, or match the shape of the wood's contour. This is exactly the same shape on my Enfield #4s.
On both of my true #5 Jungles, the metal contour was a bit of a narrower, partial "figure eight".

To clarify, not the mag well, but the area immed. Forward of it.
Even Charles Stratton's Lee-Enfield book (soft red covers) never mentions this.

I would like to see photos of that to cement that in my brain, I like looking at the Side of the sight picture to start and work my way to the markings..

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2013/07/22/jungle-carbine-real-fake/

Also there are real no 5s that have their Bayonet lugs removed and this was done by the Malaysian troops in the Field. Note the 1st 2 lads on the left.

malaysian.jpg
 
I had read that modifications to the "knoxform" were the most obvious change from No. 4 to No. 5 and the link provided demonstrates that clearly. Thank you for the link. Now I'll depart before debate fires up on the spelling of that term and the notorious "wandering zero".
 
One subtle way to spot a true Enfield #5 Jungle: look just Forward of the magazine well.

The metal contour/shape doesn't quite parallel, or match the shape of the wood's contour. This is exactly the same shape on my Enfield #4s.
On both of my true #5 Jungles, the metal contour was a bit of a narrower, partial "figure eight".

To clarify, not the mag well, but the area immed. Forward of it.
Even Charles Stratton's Lee-Enfield book (soft red covers) never mentions this.
You'er talking about the trigger guard just behind the King screw. This is not a good way to spot a Jungle carbine because the trigger guard is interchangeable with a standard No4.
Lightening cuts on the action and carrel are the best way to spot a real Jungle carbine.
https://www.forgottenweapons.com/enfield-no5-jungle-carbine-video/

My Jungle Carbine is the only rifle I own that has a name. Her name is Penny.
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Why are Turks your Favorite???
They are the underdog of the Mauser world. I guess I have a soft spot for the Underdog. Plus I have a few of them.
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They are the underdog of the Mauser world. I guess I have a soft spot for the Underdog. Plus I have a few of them.
index.php

Oh yes, I have seen that before, you even have the pee funnel cleaning cup that I lust to have.. Fantastic photo... dare I say a Turkish delight,,, :)
 
The #5 "Jungle"......
Folks: If I understood how to post photos, would have been doing so since 2007. The same with Armslist etc.

Think of a long semi-circular wooden cutout, forward of the #5's magazine well.
Now picture that the metal is a slightly different shape, narrower enough that it doesn't really follow the outline, somewhat of a very skinny, partial figure 8.

And if still legible they are stamped no. 5.
 
The #5 "Jungle"......
Folks: If I understood how to post photos, would have been doing so since 2007. The same with Armslist etc.

Think of a long semi-circular wooden cutout, forward of the #5's magazine well.
Now picture that the metal is a slightly different shape, narrower enough that it doesn't really follow the outline, somewhat of a very skinny, partial figure 8.

And if still legible they are stamped no. 5.
Photos are easy to post.
When you make a post, look just below where you type in your text where the POST REPLY button is, just to the right is another button that says, UPLOAD A FILE. Tap it and it will open your browser. Just use your browser to open the file where your photos are and pick the one you want . It’s pretty easy from there.

The part of the rifle you are talking about is the front of the trigger guard .
Here’s a pic of a standard No4 Mk1* and a Jungle Carbine
18662AA6-2CCB-4124-951A-C078CC23519C.jpeg

But like I said before, the parts are interchangeable so, it’s a poor way to spot a real Jungle Carbine.
The lightening cuts on the receiver is the best way to spot one without removing the handguard.
B285855D-7642-4D28-9B4D-73C429AFA10D.jpeg 8D79C617-D975-4B31-B587-74AAF3DDE9FE.jpeg
 
Excellent point. I had never read that this part was known to be swapped between the no. 4 and no. 5.

As sellers might not let us remove their upper hand guards to check for scalloped, lightning cuts, at least the “no. 5” was visible on the receivers when I first saw the rifles.
 
Thanks gunny.. for the photos and thanks Ignition for that that tip, I never noticed that part of the trigger guard being thinned out cut like that for the No 5s.

You know it would be interesting to see how many more hours of machine work it took to make a no5 receiver & parts over the no4.. And also excluding the shorter barrel and stock, just how much weight did all that extra work save.???

Again thanks for the photos..
 
As a youngish person myself (turn 30 next year) I look at milsurps today and I compare them to other bolt actions (Ruger and Savage) and I don't see the value in 20th Century milsurps as shooters. Collecting, sure, but I don't see how a Mosin at $400 is a better rifle than a Ruger Predator in .308. Milsurp to Milsurp, I don't see how a $400 Mosin beats a $500 Chinese SKS.

$500 seems high for an SKS to people because 20 years ago they were everywhere for $100. Hey, look at the AK market and the low quality of modern made AK's for the same $500 and you'll realize what makes those Chinese SKS' worth that money.

IMO, the only Milsurps worth buying today are the Japanese Arisaka in 7.7mm. People are adverse to them simply because the ammo is $2 a round for bad factory ammo. Reloading 7.7 Jap is not impossible and brass is easy to form from .30-06 cases. For $300, the Arisaka's are great.

That said, I have an interest in 19th Century black powder cartridge rifles like the Snider, Martini-Henry, and Chassepot. Dunno why, I guess because people are less interested in such guns vs milsurps from the 20th Century.
Those Ruger or Savage don't even come with iron sights, which is fine if you only want to scope the gun. I wouldn't pay $400 for a run of the mill Mosin either, and different people have different likes for what they shoot. However a nice Swedish Mauser or Swiss K31 or Finnish Mosin, even at today's prices I would buy but that's me. See link. However it would be interesting to see what that Predator could do at 100 yards 10 shots within 10 to 15 minutes with a warm barrel and with surplus 7.62x51mm or Prvi ammo which on average can be had for around .47 to .65 cents a shot the average price of surplus rifle calibers made by Prvi. Get some Federal premium ammo at $1.00 a round and yeah might be super accurate in the Predator but expensive to shoot also.

For budget shooting in these times, AR-15 and .223 is king, followed buy a AK or SKS of some sort with again 7.62x39mm not expensive to shoot and after that a M1 carbine of some sort which a 50 round box can be had at around $18.00.

But there are still some surplus out there that is not too crazy priced, Yugo Mauser , maybe a K31 if you find a deal or still find a run of the mill Mosin for under $300.00, some of these people on gun broker list a price that is just wishful and nobody will probably buy. LOL $400.00 plus for a normal refurbed Mosin plus the shipping plus the transfer fee to your FFL ......lol. Those listers on gun broker are listing with a attitude of " this is my price take it or leave it don't care if you buy or not". Because listing fees are free so they don't loose money if the item doesn't sell if they had to pay a listing fee they would be more motivated to price the item to move.

https://support.gunbroker.com/hc/en-us/articles/223347427-Fees

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...itary-surplus-rifle-10-shot-challenge.856980/
 
Thanks gunny.. for the photos and thanks Ignition for that that tip, I never noticed that part of the trigger guard being thinned out cut like that for the No 5s.

You know it would be interesting to see how many more hours of machine work it took to make a no5 receiver & parts over the no4.. And also excluding the shorter barrel and stock, just how much weight did all that extra work save.???

Again thanks for the photos..
They didn't make No 4 parts then re-manufacture them into No 5 parts, the No 5 receiver and all the other unique parts were made on their own dedicated tooling. The production time was pretty much the same.

In total they cut 2 pounds off the weight, not bad.
 
They didn't make No 4 parts then re-manufacture them into No 5 parts, the No 5 receiver and all the other unique parts were made on their own dedicated tooling. The production time was pretty much the same.

In total they cut 2 pounds off the weight, not bad.

Do not think anyone thinks they made no 4 parts into no 5.. But there was extra work/steps in making a no 5 receiver then making a no 4.. and that cost a bit..

and was the 2 pounds just in those machining changes or did that include the barrel and stock..???
 
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That was one of the big draws to the military surplus. Anyone could play. Consequently, you saw every level of quality in wartime rifles, and every level of gunsmithing/gunplumber work. It was good if it helped someone acquire skill without risking a (then $300) M70 or M700. It was bad if someone overestimated their abilities or just hacked mindlessly.

That's how and why I got into the game. Started way too late though... I got in just as the surplus was drying up, then looked up one day and saw that those $120 Mosin 91/30s were now $280 Mosins and wondered what the heck happened.

TBH, I think the surplus game is effectively dead now. US WWII guns are all north of $1000, Mosins are priced way out of reason, Enfields are gone, most of the Mausers are gone, all the fun "niche-y" stuff like MAS 49s and Hakims are gone, Norinco import SKSs and MAK 90s are expensive, all the cheap ammo is gone...

If I was starting a gun collection from scratch today, the only milsurps I'd be interested in would be an SKS and some flavor of Mauser in 8mm. SKSs still have value today at around $400; I'd rather have an SKS than an AK, and most AKs today go for nearly twice that. Likewise, Mausers are a little pricey, but they're still worth it. They have probably the best actions out of any of the old school bolt rifles, and the build quality is pretty high across the board.

Of course, there are still plenty of odds and ends out there in classifieds and gun shows, and hardcore gun aficionados will be picking through those for years to come. But it's never going to be what it was in the 80s and 90s where you could grab a $60 Mosin and $50 case of corrosive x54 and go blast away.

Heck, I know some guys back in the 90s who thought it'd be fun to put a case of Norinco x39 through their SKS every weekend. The barrel was completely shot out after a month or two; whether the steel bullets or the corrosive primers got it first, I will never know. But imagine buying a $100 rifle and shooting it smooth with $80 cases of ammo... those were the days.
 
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