Single Stage AR-15 Trigger Recommendations?

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I'm just obsessive enough that a little bit of wiggle between the unit & the lower (insert joke here) will keep me unhappy with it.

I have used three others, flat and curved, as well as my own and have not experienced any slop. The pins keep them tight.
The fiddly-ness of the Elftmann was due to the unnecessary set screws, which I abandoned using at all. Verily, it was so tight I have no fears of any walking pins, nor shifting cassette...

Of course, tolerance stacking can happen to anyone, just like my Elfwhich sits in an Areo Precision matched receiver set, but not in a beneficial way.
Tighter tolerances may mean that universally a certain brand won’t work with a specific part.
Like how the differing measurements of the lowers turned a creepy long pull into a reasonably weighted crisp one. Being more close to the factory’s specs more often won’t help if their measurements are too different to work with the intended part.

Only one way to know...

No. Not try it. :D
Ask around and see if the particular trigger had any problems with your lower for anyone else.:)
 
I have used three others, flat and curved, as well as my own and have not experienced any slop. The pins keep them tight.
The fiddly-ness of the Elftmann was due to the unnecessary set screws, which I abandoned using at all. Verily, it was so tight I have no fears of any walking pins, nor shifting cassette...

Of course, tolerance stacking can happen to anyone, just like my Elfwhich sits in an Areo Precision matched receiver set, but not in a beneficial way.
Tighter tolerances may mean that universally a certain brand won’t work with a specific part.
Like how the differing measurements of the lowers turned a creepy long pull into a reasonably weighted crisp one. Being more close to the factory’s specs more often won’t help if their measurements are too different to work with the intended part.

Only one way to know...

No. Not try it. :D
Ask around and see if the particular trigger had any problems with your lower for anyone else.:)

I had one. I tried it in 3 different lowers. It had just enough play to bug me. I sold it.

Triggertechs have set screws just like the Elfs (& FailZero, & RA, etc). I don't mind em at all.

Glad we have choices.

The POF is interesting too.
 
For posterity’s sake the ALG QMS has a positive sear. A rather crude drawing (done with my finger on an iPhone just now) but if you can imagine the “beaks” below representing different sear angles of acute, neutral, and obtuse based on an imaginary line drawn to the center of the pivot point (pin hole), that describes sear engagement.

Positive adds potentially unnecessary weight which could otherwise be adjusted with springs.

Neutral is ideal and allows spring tension to control pull weight.

Negative is unsafe and why no one who fails to understand these basics should ever “clean up” a trigger.

Beyond what’s shown, the amount of engagement matters as well and that is where creep is eliminated.

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If you know how to safely dry fire your AR with the upper pivoted out of the way (protecting the lower receiver by capturing the hammer before it strikes) then you can observe your hammer and know you sear’s engagement. Hammer retracts (moves down as if cocking a bit more) and you’re at positive. No perceptible movement before release and you’re neutral. Creeps up and you better order parts (negative).
 
I generally avoid drop-in units because I do not like special anti walk pins. I like Geisselle triggers in that they are faithful to the design of the std. semi trigger and use normal pins and springs which is a great design.
 
I stick with mil-spec triggers-if I do want a light trigger, I can get an issue trigger down to 2#-did it to my issue A1. Yes, it still had creep, but all it cost me was some time. I had to move it to one of another units' rifles while ours were having their annual inspection which included a trigger pull test. Then I'd switch it back before that unit got tested. When I set up some of our A1's for the post rifle match, I got them down to exactly 4.5#, measured on the same instrument used to test them before competition, (borrowed from the AMTU unit on post, who ran the match); I also set up ten A2's borrowed from HHT, 307 Avn. Bde. for the match. We ended up using the A2's, I also set some up for their Armorer for the match.
Were I to invest in aftermarket triggers, It would probably be the Timney Competition or Geissele SSA.
 
I generally avoid drop-in units because I do not like special anti walk pins. I like Geisselle triggers in that they are faithful to the design of the std. semi trigger and use normal pins and springs which is a great design.

I put anti-rotation/walk pins on every lower I build, drop in trigger or not. A little extra insurance is never a bad thing.
 
The trigger was waiting in my mailbox when I got home from work tonight. I just installed it in the lower along with a Radian Talon short throw safety. 10/10. No creep, breaks clean, short but very strong reset. -italian chefs kiss- Perfect. I'd take it up to get cerakoted on my next day off, but I'm afraid a few other builds need parts & black Friday is upon us. It never ends.
 
Agree that the simpler and more robust design are the milspec pins and springs, and Geissele triggers are outstanding.
That said, drop in trigger units and anti-walk pins are fine for most users.
 
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