I need a hand...

45 Dragoon said:

Ummmm . . . Colt pattern vs Remington pattern? Yeah, a little bit of difference . . .
I understand what you're saying but to compare one design reproduced basically correctly (Remies) vs another design (Colt open tops) never correctly reproduced, is a bit of a stretch!!

Mike

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How are the new colt italian replicas different than the originals? I have never handled one....is there really that much of a difference? So the remington copies are accurate and the colt replicas are not accurate?

Well, it comes down to the arbor thing. The top strap design has a screw-in fixed barrel, the open top Colt pattern has a removable barrel assy. The arbor (transmission line) has to bottom out in the barrel assy or it is just a "patch work" revolver. Always changing, wedge placement/movement gives you a different gun each time it moves . . . even from shot to shot sometimes.
So, comparing the two patterns with one not right, isn't a fair comparison. The open top can be amazingly accurate when setup correctly.

Mike

I only use/own newer piettas so ive never really experienced the arbor issue of not bottoming out. All my piettas arbors hit the bottom of the arbor hole. Is this mainly just an issur with Ubertis? I do understand the logic of the arbor issue tho...but aside from the arbor issue what else is different of the guns?

It's an issue with pretty much every Colt pattern open top made since the originals. Pietta corrected theirs around 2010 or so. Their problem is modern made '70s style action parts. Uberti refuses to admit there's an arbor problem but, they have the best action parts ever put in an open top. So, it's a Ford/Chevy thing. All the other past makers had short arbors, including the Colt 2nd gens, Signature series, . . . everybody.

The Remington pattern obviously doesn't have an arbor problem but without a cylinder bushing, binding from fouling happens early compared to the Colt pattern. So, there are issues with either pattern revolver, pick your poison!! The Colt action layout is much more "elegant" as far as tuning or in my case, converting to a fully coil spring action. The Remington on the other hand has one action screw that both trigger and bolt swing on which made it much more difficult to coil spring (along with coil springing the hand!!). The good thing is, I finally figured it out and it makes a Remington pattern a "Ruger tough" revolver (Actually, both patterns are, it just took longer to get the Remie "on board").

Since the '58, '75 and '90 Remington's are the same inside, the coil spring conversion is the biggest advancement for them since 1890 !!!

So, with Remington's, it's more a physical size (Pietta's are larger over all) difference with basically the same action parts difference (Uberti's are very nice, Pietta's are more '70s style).

Ultimately, they can all be corrected and made into incredible performers!! So it doesn't matter if you're a Remington or a Colt fan, there's a fix for it!!

Mike

How are the action parts from pietta different in quality that uberti? As ive stated all ive handled are newer pietta and i think their parts are good quality...i can actually see a difference from my 2016 models and 2018 models too. I got a new 2018 dated 1851 old silver and the internals were of way better quality than my two 2016 models. I also have a 2018 dated model 1851 london model and its got the same action parts. But how are the action parts of uberti of better quality, or how are piettas of worse quality. Ive never used an uberti or opened up an uberti...but this tid bit of knowledge is having me thinking about getting one. I dont have any real problems with piettas parts since ive gone with my wire spring setup...i have cocked some of my guns thousands of times (daily...i always play with my guns just cycling them around the house out of boredom and cuz i just like playing with them) and not seen any wear or broken any parts. Every now and then ive broken a hammer spring (only twice) but thats to be expected after months of cycling the gun thousands of times. But before my wire spring setup i would break the stock OEM flat spring bolt and trigger spring.

Oh also ive never opened up a replica gun from the 1970s so i dont know what those parts are like.

Haaa!! I forget, . . . I'm an "old" guy!! Lol

In the '70s, replicas were made "to sell" so it was all about function rather than "longevity"! When the " producers " figured out they had a market past the "war between the States" centennial, they started making more "reliable" repos. When the 80's got here , they still had an audience and the SASS community arrived, and reliability started to "make sense". Ever since they've been " advancing " the cause so we end up with what we have today. One maker corrects the arbor issue, the other takes the route of making better parts. Neither ends up with "the" revolver so . . . I showed up !!! Lol!!!! Just kidding!! It's just two suppliers with they're markets.

The Pietta bolt arms are much too thick, the combo spring is of equal thickness on the trigger side as well as the bolt side. The Uberti bolt is excellent (and can be perfected!), thin on the left side thicker on the right. Likewise, the hand is better "constructed" with a better spring (even though I remove that for a coil and pushrod setup). The originals had thin (left) bolt arms and the trigger side of the combo spring was wider than the bolt side. Most (all for the most part) of the repro. companies got it wrong. The cams of both are too tall and the full cock cuts are from good to bad. Like I said, all of this can be corrected!! This carries over to the Remington's as well.

Mike

.38 Special said:

I am set up for brazing but not for welding. It may be time to add that...

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Just have to use an iron rod (coat hanger).