Gifted a Remington 700 Sendero 7 MAG, possible firing pin issue

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oblvnnwtnjhn

oblvnnwtnjhn

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My dad gifted me his old 700, stated that he had it recently cleaned and inspected by a gunsmith. He told the gunsmith that he suspected an issue with the firing pin as he had dry fired a few times, the gunsmith said he found no issue. My dad subsequently dry fired a few times thereafter last year missing two deer.

We tested the 700 and his T3 side by side, you can hear the 700 firing pin sounds rather weak in comparision. I spent some time researching on the web, seems the pin assembly or spring could be possible culprits. Also the bolt assembly has a lot of play.

Here's a brief video I shot for reference:
 
Firing pins are designed to fire primers, not make noise. You should probably assume that the gunsmith knows of what he speaks, and missing is just missing.

Go fire a couple rounds, and come back with a picture of the fired primers.

So far as I can tell, there's no reason to think there's anything wrong (with the gun). People miss deer every day. . .
 
edwardware said:
Firing pins are designed to fire primers, not make noise. You should probably assume that the gunsmith knows of what he speaks, and missing is just missing.

Go fire a couple rounds, and come back with a picture of the fired primers.

So far as I can tell, there's no reason to think there's anything wrong (with the gun). People miss deer every day. . .
Click to expand...
I may have not been clear, by dry fire, I was referring to the gun did not fire at all, so misfire is the correct term. It's possible it was the ammo, and I say that because I remember last year we hunted a field together and where stalking the same deer, he never fired, and when I went to fire, nothing from the Tikka either. I remarked what were the odds we both misfired at the same time and questioned him on the ammo, he said it was new. So very plausible bad ammo. I need to take it to a range and try some known ammo through it.

Recommend some good ammo for the 700?
 
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Check firing pin protrusion should run .035ish.
Then remove the firing pin assembly and check for crude and any damages the spring or signs the assembly might be binding....taking those things apart sans a tool can get a little gnarly, so just do a visual.
Next check that the internal channel of the bolt isnt gummed up

If all that checks out, check that the bolt handle isnt becoming obstructed before completely down. The easiest way to do that is to remove the action then carefully replace it into the stock and see if the bolt handle lifts a little bit as you seat it.

lastly check the that the trigger is dropping the sear correctly and completely, If the trigger was messed with its possible that it got set so its binding.
 
oblvnnwtnjhn said:
. . . so misfire is the correct term.
Click to expand...
Now there's data!

-Remove the bolt from the rifle
-Clamp a thick washer in your bench vise, sticking up. Have a second thick washer handy.
-Use the clamped washer to pull the striker block back out from the bolt body ~3/8".
-Once it's backed out, a second slot on the side of the cocking piece is evident. Slip the second washer in there and let the spring hold it. Making a flat spot on the edge of the washer might help engagement.
-Now you can unscrew the cocking piece from the bolt body.

This requires 3 hands, and it's a stiff spring, so go slow. Once it's out, you'll be looking directly at the pin and spring.
 
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Somebody that knows what they are doing and has a couple of the common (inexpensive) bolt tools can change the firing pin spring in about 10 minutes. I suggest inspecting the firing pin, cleaning the bolt body, and a new Wolf spring (app $10).
 
oblvnnwtnjhn said:
Considering this upgrade while I am at it. . .
Click to expand...
Yeah. Once you're shooting consistent ~1 MOA groups, you can start looking at reduced lock time to improve that. Until then, resist the urge to pour money down dry holes.

Have you removed the striker assembly to inspect yet? Checked FP protrusion per @LoonWulf ?

Also, once you get it apart:
- Clean thoroughly, especially down inside the bolt body.
- The pin and spring should be nearly dry. No more lube than wiping with an oily patch. NO GREASE.
- Grease the cocking cam, cocking lug, and the threads. Gobbing is not necessary, a nice coating will smooth things.
 
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edwardware said:
Yeah. Once you're shooting consistent ~1 MOA groups, you can start looking at reduced lock time to improve that. Until then, resist the urge to pour money down dry holes.

Have you removed the striker assembly to inspect yet? Checked FP protrusion per @LoonWulf ?

Also, once you get it apart:
- Clean thoroughly, especially down inside the bolt body.
- The pin and spring should be nearly dry. No more lube than wiping with an oily patch. NO GREASE.
- Grease the cocking cam, cocking lug, and the threads. Gobbing is not necessary, a nice coating will smooth things.
Click to expand...

Do you know where I can find a more detailed schematic than what's posted on Brownells/Sinclair's?
 
If it misfired I would disassemble the bolt and give it a good cleaning. If the firing pin spring is one of those that is "wadded" up on the firing pin I would replace it. I like the complete assembly from Darrell Holland. While you are at it I would give the trigger assembly a good cleaning with lighter fluid and low pressure compressed air. The canned stuff sold in office supply places works well.

You can disassemble the bolt without tools but the proper tool makes it very easy.
 
You can buy a bolt disassembly tool for $33 - $40 at Brownell's. I like the Kleinendorst model, but the Sinclair model should work nicely. With this tool I can remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt body in about ten seconds.

If wish to replace the mainspring a $33 Sinclair tool and a $10 spring will do the job in a few minutes after you have used the bolt disassembly tool (above).

I keep a set in my range box as well as a set on my bench. Maintaining the bolt yourself is very easy if you have the right tools.
 
I may have not been clear, by dry fire, I was referring to the gun did not fire at all
Click to expand...

What does the primer look like? If it has a good hit, the ammunition might be the problem.

When you take the bolt out of the rifle it will look like this.

5312D668-F8A7-49E9-A426-045286838C46.jpeg

Rotate the tailstock in the bolt until it looks like this.
47242627-BBF6-4EE5-9438-03C4BA8B8B53.jpeg

Does the firing pin look like this at the face of the bolt now?

239951BF-5390-4790-8D7B-3849408E0A4F.jpeg

You can also remove the tailstock, spring and pin completely and see instantly if the spring is broken.
0A2217BE-8275-495A-8F36-59B6DE9C95B3.jpeg

The proper tools make it easy but it’s not very hard even if you don’t own the right stuff.

 
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jmorris said:
The proper tools make it easy but it’s not very hard even if you don’t own the right stuff.
Click to expand...

So that's a bootlace instead of a washer in the vise, and constant pulling instead of a second washer to hold the spring compressed. That looks like something that'd be in one of those Preventative Maintenance comics from the Cold War.
 
Firing pin protrusion should be about .055" for big bore centerfire cartridges. The spring compression tool is easy to make as the thread is a standard. If you look at the picture of the Sinclair tool it is easy to make. I've made a few for some people. IIRC the ones I've made do both Remington and I believe Ruger at the opposite end of the same body.
 
Seamaster31 said:
You can buy a bolt disassembly tool for $33 - $40 at Brownell's. I like the Kleinendorst model, but the Sinclair model should work nicely. With this tool I can remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt body in about ten seconds.

If wish to replace the mainspring a $33 Sinclair tool and a $10 spring will do the job in a few minutes after you have used the bolt disassembly tool (above).

I keep a set in my range box as well as a set on my bench. Maintaining the bolt yourself is very easy if you have the right tools.
Click to expand...

I went the Kleinendorst model route also. I'm invested enough in 700s & MOD 7s that it was worth the money and I just flat out appreciate neat little tools......I've also got the Sinclair tool.
 
That looks like something that'd be in one of those Preventative Maintenance comics from the Cold War.
Click to expand...

It more of a “field tool”. Kind of like stripping a 1911 down with no tools at all, except you need boots or shoes with laces.
 
jmorris said:
What does the primer look like? If it has a good hit, the ammunition might be the problem.

When you take the bolt out of the rifle it will look like this.

View attachment 875655

Rotate the tailstock in the bolt until it looks like this.
View attachment 875654

Does the firing pin look like this at the face of the bolt now?

View attachment 875653

You can also remove the tailstock, spring and pin completely and see instantly if the spring is broken.
View attachment 875656

The proper tools make it easy but it’s not very hard even if you don’t own the right stuff.

Click to expand...


Just removed bolt assembly, and already see an issue. Where's da pin??
2ikfxxG.jpg
 
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