Sig 229 shoots low - what can help?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
821
Location
Lynchburg, VA
Disclaimer: I'm no marksman, but I group where I aim on most days.

I consistently group my 40cal. 229 about 6 inches low at 30 feet. My 1911 and friend's Glock are right where they needed to be, but that beautiful Sig just couldn't deliver.

My front/rear sights are #6/#8 respectively (as they should be), but I was curious if anyone else had a similar problem and found a sight combo that worked for them.

I am familiar with Sig's "combat hold" when it comes to their sights...but my low shots were fired with this in mind.

Thanks for any help you can provide
 
With the center of white dot/center of mass SIG combat sight picture it will always shoot low if you're using a traditional 6 0'clock or even a top of sight/center of target hold. The white dot on the front sight is usually the point of impact the factory SIG sights are going for. This sight picture works great in quick shoot drills but covers half (or more) of the target when trying a more precise or a long-distance shot. For a lot of people that sight picture isn't what they're used to and it can be tough to find their happy place with those sights, especially if they also shoot revolvers a lot. I started my combat-style shooting with a SIG 226 back in late 1990, so that sight picture and point of impact is normal for me and I use that sight picture on all of my "service" style autos. (I had a hell of a time getting used to the 6 o'clock when I bought a Glock 17L!)

You could get a shorter front sight if your shooting style isn't allowing you to bring the white dot up to the center of the target, which would allow for a more traditional "top of front sight" hold. There are lots of options out there for you to look over. SIG branded sight pushers are sorta costly, but if it finally brings you the results you want the cost is well worth it.

Stay safe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jhb
You pretty much hit the nail on the head. My "point and click" shooting isn't bad, but when I'm reaching out and I can't see the target at all (on account of the higher hold) it's a little frustrating.

Can anyone else attest to a specific sight/height that has worked for them? I agree that with training I could fix my problem, but all my other handguns are a traditional 6 o'clock hold, so if I can keep that consistent I'd be much happier.
 
Thank you for the link! I’ve read that before, but I was actually curious of any real-life experiences that people have had with switching out sights. Apart from what should happen, what actually happens on the paper?
 
I have used Dawson’s front sight calculator to fix POI on several pistols, and if you measure carefully it’s spot on. Some pistols just shoot low (or high). I have a Brig that’s annoyingly low and a CZ75 that’s annoyingly high. Saving dough for front sights for both.

My SIGs usually print right on the dot or near the top of the front sight, but I’ve shot a P220 that hit like 4” low at 10 yards. If that were my gun I’d get a new front sight ASAP. People like to talk about SIG’s “combat hold” but some pistols are more like belt-buckle shooters.
 
You pretty much hit the nail on the head. My "point and click" shooting isn't bad, but when I'm reaching out and I can't see the target at all (on account of the higher hold) it's a little frustrating.

Can anyone else attest to a specific sight/height that has worked for them? I agree that with training I could fix my problem, but all my other handguns are a traditional 6 o'clock hold, so if I can keep that consistent I'd be much happier.
as with discussing specific ammo or reloads for specific pistols, it’s not really helpful for someone to tell you what sight height worked for them.

your pistol is unique, your shooting style is unique, and your ammo may be unique. The only way to make your pistol hit where you want it is for you do do the calculations and get the sight/a that work the way you want in your gun with your ammo.

it’s a straightforward process and not difficult to exchange sights in most cases. You can use hand tools or a sight pusher.

drive them out to the left and drive them in from the left, unless specifically directed otherwise.
 
Last edited:
Note if you start measuring heights to adjust POI: SIG measures their sight heights from the BASE, while dawson and most other places I’ve seen measure their heights starting at the top of the SLIDE.

For the sight height calculators I use measured heights from the top of the slide to the top of the sight.
 
I hate the cover-the-target "combat" sight picture. Bullet impacts should be regulated to hit at or just above the top of the front post. Low-visibility scenario three dots are fine for emergency use, because at the range where they would be necessary, the slightly lower impact point would be inconsequential.
 
Last edited:
My P239 is the same way, it shoots nice groups but the front sight has to cover the target to do it. It’s annoying trying to hit my smaller steel spinners since I can’t really see the circle I’m trying to hit. It came with night sights as well so I don’t really want to invest in a different front sight.
 
Well, since SIG offers different height sights, maybe go with 8/8 and see how it goes. I know a lot of folk go by the dot on the front sight, I go by the top of the blade, which puts my shots low. There is not a shorter front sight for my pistol, so I just shaved a bit off the sight.
 
Before I’d go through the expense and hassle I’d shoot a few good groups and take some careful measurements, use a sight calculator and order the one that will move the groups up to where you want them.
 
Well, since SIG offers different height sights, maybe go with 8/8 and see how it goes. I know a lot of folk go by the dot on the front sight, I go by the top of the blade, which puts my shots low. There is not a shorter front sight for my pistol, so I just shaved a bit off the sight.

Wouldn't a higher front sight push my groups further down? I might be mistaken.

I'm heading to the range this weekend with 500 rounds of a lower grain (165 instead of 180) and see if that helps.
 
I was actually curious of any real-life experiences that people have had with switching out sights. Apart from what should happen, what actually happens on the paper?
It has been my experience with several SIG pistols, some belonging to friends, that the factory sight heights are pretty accurate as to the change you can expect when shooting 124gr premium, not blaster/plinking, ammo.

Going up one (1) number on the front sight will yield 1" of group shift at 25 yards...I'm not sure how much change you can expect at the 10 yards you are shooting at. This does depend somewhat on the size of the group you are able to hold at 25 yards

Wouldn't a higher front sight push my groups further down? I might be mistaken.
A #8 front sight is shorter than the #6 you currently have installed.

A higher number on the SIG front sight only means that it raises the POI. A higher number on the rear sight does mean a taller rear sight
 
Last edited:
It has been my experience with several SIG pistols, some belonging to friends, that the factory sight heights are pretty accurate as to the change you can expect when shooting 124gr premium, not blaster/plinking, ammo.

Going up one (1) number on the front sight will yield 1" of group shift at 25 yards...I'm not sure how much change you can expect at the 10 yards you are shooting at. This does depend somewhat on the size of the group you are able to hold at 25 yards

A #8 front sight is shorter than the #6 you currently have installed.

A higher number on the SIG front sight only means that it raises the POI. A higher number on the rear sight does mean a taller rear sight


Thank you for clearing this up a bit. With my eyes, I don't get out past 20 yards very often, so maybe a change in sights might not yield the results I'm looking for. All the same, I'll know more after another range trip. Thanks again!
 
Wouldn't a higher front sight push my groups further down? .
Yes, but SIG numbers mean different heights depending on front or rear. The easy way to remember is, as numbers go up, groups go up. Higher numbered rears=taller rears=higher POI. Higher numbered fronts=shorter fronts=higher POI.
 
A gun zeroed at 25 (which is what sig says) will be lower at 10. Couple that with the already low to most "combat hold" and you will be pretty low. I changed the sights on my 226 to get a normal hold. My 220 in 10mm already had a normal hold and I honestly dont recall what my 45 has. I left the 229 with the combat hold because I carry it occasionally and shoot silhouettes with it. The combat hold works well for driving the dot quickly and getting hits on steel when tiny groups isnt exactly the goal. Which is Exactly what it was made for.
My newer 320 also shoots with a normal hold rather than the combat hold.
I agree that ammo will change the poi but at 10 yards I cant imagine that much of a difference. I shoot from 155 to 180 (and have even shot 200 grain handloads) with no real difference at such short ranges. Now on steel at 100 yards the difference is very pronounced.
 
Out of the box my 229, 40 S&W, shot low. I switched out the rear sight for the highest one Sig offered and am very pleased with the results.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top