Mosin rusted action bolts

Get some Kroil.

Worth the 10 minutes

Spoiler alert!! Kroil doesn't win!

What jwampleusa said. Otherwise, submerge in a good ATF fluid but be sure to remove the wood.

PB BLASTER I've fount to be the best rust penetrate.I'm sure there are others. hdbiker

303 hunter said:

I’m trying to get it all separated so I can restore the rifle. The bolt under the cocking piece, and the bolt in front of the magazine are the ones that are stuck. They have to be removed before I can remove the stock.

The person I bought the rifle from had evidently done some careful sanding and painting to cover rust, and I didn’t catch it before buying. Cocking piece was sanded down on the outside, but badly pitted inside, so I’ve replaced it. We’ll see what else needs replacing when I get the rifle apart.

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Ah!! I get it, serves me right for not reading more closely to your original post. You are trying to remove frozen action screws (which are really bolts as you noted)--not the rifle bolt itself. Those can be a real bear to remove without damaging the rifle and I've found that sometimes it requires a screw jack or impact tool to remove with the rifle secured firmly in a vise. Try using some heat applied with a soldering iron (pointy tipped works) to the screw itself--then when the screw is still hot carefully use the penetrating oil around it. Normally in this situation you have to loosen and break the rust weld in two places--the screw head and the threads. Tapping it and using a fine pick to scrape whatever you can around the screw head can help allow the penetrating oil to go deeper.

Ultimately, you may have to drill it out or use a drill press with the receiver in a vise and use the torque of the drill press to break it loose after oiling it for awhile. I would try penetrating oil one a day for about a week before even considering removing it.

Here is one guide from Gun Digest,
https://gundigest.com/more/how-to/gunsmithing/gunsmithing-5-ways-remove-frozen-screws

Example of impact screwdriver set, https://www.amazon.com/Teng-Tools-R...impact+screwdriver+set&qid=1575673327&sr=8-57

Last but not least, the destructive means of using a screw extractor which you can get everywhere.

The best penetrating oil is a torch and a drill...

Another method is to soak in penetrant and then tap around it with a hammer. Tap, not pound. Rinse and repeat for a week....or a year. It will eventually work.

I’ve heard Liquid Wrench works best....Hahaha....None of them work in my experience....except the drill and torch.

At some point, you sacrifice the screw heads and remove the stock. I have never seen a rust-frozen thread that repeated cycles of Kroil and heating until the Kroil fizzes in the joint wouldn't free.

Wd40 is useless.

earlthegoat2 said:

The best penetrating oil is a torch and a drill...

Another method is to soak in penetrant and then tap around it with a hammer. Tap, not pound. Rinse and repeat for a week....or a year. It will eventually work.

I’ve heard Liquid Wrench works best....Hahaha....None of them work in my experience....except the drill and torch.

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This

edwardware said:

At some point, you sacrifice the screw heads and remove the stock. I have never seen a rust-frozen thread that repeated cycles of Kroil and heating until the Kroil fizzes in the joint wouldn't free.

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Work on cars in illinois, it'll change that for you forever.

You can get penetrant in to both ends on the rear one, that should come out easier; it is also shorter. Penetrant, impact driver, heat. Use each one in that order. Hopefully you won't need all three. I just had loosen a bolt on a Remington 750, used PB Blaster, some tapping on it to get it in there good, time for it to work, and a brass hammer to the block on the front of the carrier. Popped right loose. Then the real work started.

Obturation said:

Work on cars in illinois, it'll change that for you forever.

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I grew up in NH and work on my own cars; I've never had to drill a bolt that I had time to heat and Kroil repeatedly. It works, it's just slow.

O/P, I have used PB Blaster in the spray can for some other projects (free up lawnmower lug nuts on an old mower) and it seemed to work fine. Local places did not have Kroil spray and I needed it fixed right then. I use Kroil for firearms primarily because it works well with two other cleaning products--JB Bore Paste, and Blue Wonder firearm cleaner. Sometimes you can have an issue between two products and they actually fight each other so I have never bothered to use PB Blaster on firearms because Kroil works for me.

Have used the Acetone ATF mix for large projects like freeing up a whole barrelled receiver but make sure to have something with a sealed lid or have really good ventilation without an open heat source around for that if you are soaking it. Acetone is not something that you really want to be breathing or smelling all day.

Let us know how you make out.

303 hunter said:

I’ve got some PB Blaster, but I’m working in the house because it’s raining. PB smells terrible, and my wife would kill me if I got the house stinking! I’ll try it tomorrow.

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Kroil smells like a auto-shop flavored candle (especially when your heating it!), but PBlaster smells like something went wrong in a organic chem lab. . . another reason to prefer Kroil.

OP while you're at harbor freight look at a heat gun. You can use it to heat the bolts while the stock is on.

Woohoo!!!. Glad they came out in one piece and that you could finally disassemble the rifle. Thanks for letting us know.

Glad it worked out

303 hunter said:

Now- can y’all tell me how to get the barrel bands back on without scratching the forearm? This is laminated wood, and I don’t want to scratch it up. I’m going to clean it up with acetone, and leave it natural with a clear coat. Barrel bands were TIGHT coming off.

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Gun grease on the stock and spread the rings.

You probably have solid rings so just grease it up.