Using a drill and brush to clean bore in 45acp?

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refuse2bafool

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I did a search and saw that some people use a drill attached to a rod and brush to clearn a chamber in a revolver, but what about a bore? I just started shooting LSWC again and while it did not look like leading, it took an awful lot of elbow grease with a bronze brush before the patches came out clean.

Logically it should not be any different than doing it by hand. But I don't know what I don't know.
 
Take some strands of copper chore boy and wrap around a oversized brush. Run it thru dry first. A few swipes with that will get most of it. Then clean as normal.

When I say oversize, I use a 40 brush on my 357. You don't have to use a bigger brush, but I think it helps. The chore boy does the work of getting the lead out. Just make sure it's copper chore boy. I believe they also make a steel one, and you don't want that going down your bore.
 
I had read about that as well. I looked at the local market and could not find it but I did find it on Amazon. Cheap. So will go ahead and give it a try. Thanks!
 
I used that cleaning combo to clean caked (cosmoline ?) preservative out of combloc chambers, on some of my Mosins, AKs, and SKSs.

JMHO, but it seems a little aggressive, for regular chamber or barrel cleaning, tho. Have you tried Janitor's Ammonia ?
 
The copper in a choreboy is softer than the steel in a bore. You can't damage it. Lead in a barrel is a pain in the youknowwhat to get clean if it gets bad. This makes quick work without dealing with any fumes from ammonia or having to worrying about eating any metal on the gun.
 
I am a Chore Boy fan, but a revolver guy almost needs a Lewis Lead Remover just for the forcing cone cleaning attachment.
 
I did a search and saw that some people use a drill attached to a rod and brush to clearn a chamber in a revolver, but what about a bore? I just started shooting LSWC again and while it did not look like leading, it took an awful lot of elbow grease with a bronze brush before the patches came out clean.

Logically it should not be any different than doing it by hand. But I don't know what I don't know.
Do NOT do it. The drill applies force the wrong direction; it works fine for chambers (and shotgun barrels, to get wad plastic out) because the are smooth-rifled barrels are not. Use a Lewis lead remover, or some Chore Boy copper(Make sure it's copper and not copper washed steel) strands on a brush. You do not need to put it on a drill for this to be effective.
 
I've done the drill thing on revolver cylinders but would never do it on a barrel. Same goes for an auto loader barrel.

Good for you to ask before trying!
 
I had not thought about the rifling being damange. Some might argue the copper is too soft to damage it,but it occured to me that rotating perpendicular to the long axis may just pile up debries up against the rifling anyway. I think I will stick with the chore boy thing. I will read up a little more on ammonia, but I thought there were some hazards in using that.

Thanks for all the info.
 
I have used some lead wipe away cloth patches wrapped around a bore brush before. They worked well. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand I used.
 
You can get brass pipe screens cheap. Put a patch on a jag then put the pipe screen on the jag. This cuts lead out of the bore very quickly.

Also you can use a 50/50 mix of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to remove lead. Be very careful with the liquid afterwards as it's somewhat toxic.

I've never had good luck with the chore boy method. The pipe screen works like a charm. There's also this http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/ These things WORK.
 
Do NOT do it. The drill applies force the wrong direction; it works fine for chambers (and shotgun barrels, to get wad plastic out) because the are smooth-rifled barrels are not. Use a Lewis lead remover, or some Chore Boy copper(Make sure it's copper and not copper washed steel) strands on a brush. You do not need to put it on a drill for this to be effective.
Yep.
 
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