Anyone make your own targets?

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I have a number of different paper targets for various purposes.

For initial sight-in - I collect old military and some sporting rifles - so I prefer a large, clean surface and an aiming point. I found and bought a large roll of 'wrapping paper'. The sort used for packages. It is about three foot wide and as long as one cuts it. Staple that to a rifle stand (of the type at my range) and an aiming point in the middle. Even a very badly dialed out scope or iron sights that have been seriously whacked will register at 25 yards. Then adjust or beat to comply. Often, a shot that is six inches or more off at 25 yards will be off target completely and most of the time, untraceable. Saves much heartburn and bad words in my case.
Also, the wrapping paper can be used to trace a target shape for informal practice.

Paper plates are great for hunting rifles at range - after getting the rifle shooting on line. A six or eight inch circle is adequate for most hunting purposes. With the blank paper background, one can even figure the drop for range, presuming one has the shooting distance available. AND, a paper plate has room to note which rifle, load and what distance the group is fired. (I've learned to take notes the hard way.)

Similar are old 8.5x11 inch letter size sheets (I have a bunch from a past legislator). I use them for self defense pistols at handgun ranges. Anything on such a paper size will usually do for self-defense. Again, make notes of pistol, load and range. By checking at different ranges, one can see the trajectory of the round employed, and determine how far the arm is reliable in accuracy. (One's shooting, of course, should not condemn the arm.)

For more precision rifles, I print targets of my own design on regular typing paper. Something small with concentric circles, akin to bench rest targets, but with spaces to note rifle, load, range and other conditions.

I also print out 'traveller' papers to take to the range for load development. It lists the series of ammunition I am testing in a particular rifle. Shows chronograph readings, group size and displacement from aim point. Keeps me from being confused over results and which load.

Also, I used my computer to form a diagram of concentric circles, with diameter inch notations. Then I printed out the diagram on transparent plastic. I have a measuring mechanism now to check on group size without trying to figure where to hold my ruler.
 
... I used my computer to form a diagram of concentric circles, with diameter inch notations. Then I printed out the diagram on transparent plastic. I have a measuring mechanism now to check on group size without trying to figure where to hold my ruler.
That's a slick idea!
 
I use cardboard boxes from purchases as target backers. For target bases I welded some 1”x1” angle iron into an “I” shape, and welded a couple of 1”x2” rectangles at the intersections. These hold the cheap surveyors stakes that I staple the cardboard to in order to hold targets.

I’ll use shoot-n-see targets for sighting in, and other stuff like paper plates, balloons, or even raped-on clay pigeons for reactive stuff.

Stay safe!
 
I've drawn targets on a drafting table, back when there was such a thing, and run them through a copy machine. I also print them off from several sources found on the internet. I also use the little dot sticky things that you can put prices on. A 3 inch dot makes a good 600 yard target.
 
The overhead projector overlay reminded me of a folder I kept after my Brother passed away. He was always making different targets and it also had a few of he overlays in it he printed out.

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Here is something that those of you with less than stellar eyesight might give a try. The traditional pistol target is a round bulls eye of course. I have started just recently drawing squares on my targets and placing them with the points up and down and side to side like a diamond. Instead of setting the bullseye on top of your front sight you see a sharp point this way. I set the sharp point on top of and in the center of the front sight. My groups sizes have shrunk this way. This is shooting off of sandbags. I haven't tried off hand shooting this way yet and have no idea if it will help me or hinder me.
 
They are not “free”, everyone that pays taxes pays for them.

Same thing for every “Government funded” program, they are a consumptive entity not a creative one.
 
Yes. I cut up large boxes I come across. I like to think of it as a form of recycling. I also use lots of index cards and cheap paper plates. My shotgun patterning turkey targets I get online and just print the image. I also make "dot" targets by making stencils of the size dot I want, then just painting them on cardboard or other paper. Shooting can be so expensive, I try to cut costs where I can- especially on something I am literally going to shoot full of holes and throw away.
 
Paper plates- yep
Pots/ pans / metal objects that I either have for the garbage or find discarded (I work in the auto industry so people leave scrap - or old brake rotors, ect)- my favorite
Chunks of wood that I can hang and shoot at- yep
Cheapest cans of pop I can find- in a pinch and I want a lot of small reactive targets
- I'm not real big on paying much if anything for something I'm going to shoot, you won't catch me with a shoot and see or splatter target. I will buy proper targets if I'm sighting in or shooting with a beginner , I think it's easier .
 
Too lazy to go look(but will if you have a need) at the label on the big box;

Daughter in law worked at a printing joint for a few years. They were tossing some boxes of 12X18 "coated" paper. This stuff is the neatest target paper this ole redneck has ever seen. It is 100% waterproof and windproof if staked well. I use a sharpie and put 1/2-3/4" dots spaced around 6" apart. Then hang it..... and shoot till there isn't anymore bare places. At my pace they last for a cpl weeks then change them. 50,100,150 yd "berms" behind the house.

The bullet hole,"clarity" probably wouldn't make it for registered competition but is well within any usage otherwise. Look for "coated" paper if you have a need for hang it,and leave it. Best of luck with your project.
 
I use appliance boxes cut them into squares or animal shapes.
Spray paint the bulls eye.
 
I cut up the empty cereal boxes ....the heavy cardboard makes fine target ...

I paste office coding rounds sticker on them of varying sizes and colors.

The office stickers are much cheaper than target dots.. Can buy off Amazon by the 1000 roll
 
12" steel rounds cut from whatever is left from projects. I use a bolt and spring behind to support from a 2X4 held 6' high in a set of cheap Harbor Freight sawhorse jobbies.

They ring pretty good out to 600m. Easy to move, cheap to use. Paper is just so boring...

Conelrad
 
A tip I hope I don't end up regretting for the competition it may begin for me.

If one exists in your voting district, find out what the deadline is for removal of campaign signage and grab them up afterwards if it is allowed.

I found out about ours after campaign signs were left up too long on one of our commercial properties and we, as the property owners, were required to remove them since the relevant campaign had ignored the rules for removal after the election.

Of course, messing with them before this deadline (IF it exists for your area) can have steep consequences.

In any case, I have a couple-three rather universal stand adaptors for the usual campaign signs and they make wonderful target frames and backings.

Then, the shot up plastic goes to recycle and the metal that isn't useful gets picked up at our curb by the *scrappers*.

E-Z-Peasy!

But, again, be suer to check election signage guidelines in your area first.

Todd.
 
I usually use some form of printable target. There are several free sources.
I usually keep a package of orange target dot/stickers to put in the center though. My eyes aren't great.
 
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