Bullet length and case neck splitting

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Shinbone

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Hello again. I have a 6.5x57 Mauser bolt rifle that I only occasionally shoot. I had been handloading for it some years ago. I was successfully shooting 140 grain Sierra Match King #1470 using 33 gr. of IMR4064, OAL of 3.06" with no problems.
Then I thought, why use a heavy more expensive bullet if I could switch to something lighter with a bit less recoil and a little less expensive. So I tried the 85 grain Sierra #1700 with 38.2gr of IMR3031, OAL of 2.9".
The problem that developed is that with the shorter, lighter bullet, I began to experience case neck splits. So my question is, why would the lighter bullet cause the case neck splitting? Could there be a chamber problem? Not all cases split. I have been using 7mm Mauser cases necked down to 6.5 using the sizing die. This is new brass, fired only once before to fire form the cases. I have stopped using the 85 grain bullet as I don't want to ruin more cases. But I'm curious about the splitting.
Thanks.
 
It’s not splitting because of the bullet, the brass has been worked and reloaded several times, you either need to anneal the necks or or accept that this batch of brass is exhausted

working brass makes it hard and brittle, proper annealing restores the brass to a softer more workable form
 
Is this the same lot/brand/batch of brass you used previously with the heavier bullet without issue? Sometimes you just get a lemon lot.
 
In my experience small diameter case necks split more often than larger diameter necks. I used to shoot a 25-06 a lot and case neck splitting was a common occurrence with a 25-06. Small diameter bullets at high speed. Larger case necks like a 30-06 very seldom show a case neck split and most often the 30-06 case will separate at the case web before the neck will split. As the others have said, anneal the case necks and everything works better. Longer case life and better accuracy.
 
Thanks for the help on this. Random, yes, same lot I had used with the heavier bullet.
I'm surprised that they split already. I keep a record of each group and this was new brass that had been fired only once or twice before. But I will definitely anneal what I have that's not loaded. I have 70 of them that are loaded. I'm not sure if I should just shoot them as is and hope for the best, or disassemble them and anneal. I'd have to get the primers out too, I would think. Lots of work. But I am retired, so I have lots of time.;)
Should new brass be annealed too?
 
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Regarding the annealing.... you don't anneal by judging the color of the heated brass and you don't need to drop the case in water. Technically, you want the brass to reach 750 degrees F, and then remove the heat. The way to do that accurately is to have some test cases that you've applied 750 degree "Tempilaq" paint to. It is green and it turns black when it hits 750 degrees (available on Amazon). Note how many seconds you rotate the case in the torch, and do all your cases the same. If you over-anneal the case, you will ruin it. If you don't anneal enough, it won't do anything at all and you'll still be splitting necks. A bit of internet searching and you'll find some good articles on the proper ways to anneal. Sorry this isn't in the reloading section; I just added to the above... :)
 
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