1911 Trigger group question

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CharliesHammer

CharliesHammer

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I have a Springfield loaded that has a nice trigger but I wan't a fantastic trigger. I have a local tuner who has done some good work on another Springfield and on a 586.
I have ordered an EGW sear and light EGW hammer. Was hoping to get the EGW disconnector but it's listed as XL. Does it matter if it's XL? I was trying to match the components.
My gun guy said he uses the EGW sears. My problem is that he just left for a family vacation, so I would never call or text him on vacation. I have a good coupon plus a good sale that is about to expire.

I also have two triggers an STI and a match Wilson. Any preference? In the past the tuner provided the parts but I hate to miss a deal. My loading buddy tells me I can polish a penny with the best of them.
 
The only egw disconnector i see is the ball head long p/n 10050.

They offer their standard hard sear 10040 and long sear 10042. You likely want the 10050 disco and 10040 hard sear.

As for the trigger, as long as the trigger bow is full width all the way down the trigger track you should be fine. I have had issues in the past with the half thick trigger bows.
 
I did get the 10040 sear perfect, I will order the 10050. I was afraid of ordering the wrong part.
Thank you for the quick response!.
 
You are welcome. What i meant about the trigger bow is the height of the bow as it relates to the trigger track in the frame. The taller / more full it is, the less flex the bow will have therefore it will stay "fit" better. The skinnier trigger bows tend to get warped quick as they have the rigidity of a wet noodle.
 
I will have to measure the trigger bows. I have done zero work outside of cleaning my 1911's
I have had an STI trigger on one of my Springer's for about a year with no problems. It's a target gun only.
Is there a liteweight trigger out that is both lite yet robust? I would like to avoid problems.
 
Ramone said:
While I really like EGW parts, for trigger jobs, I'd get the Cylinder and Slide kit with hammer, sear, disconnector, sear spring, and main spring all matched in a kit.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005655879
Click to expand...
I know C&S make a fine product, I really went with EGW because the Smith I use likes to use EGW. He has done a couple trigger jobs for me that came out really nice.
Some day I would like to take some gun Smith classes. Right now the only guns I work on are my Glocks because they are so simple.
 
Reminder that the current safety may not work with the new sear/hammer set. Unless you have TIG welder where you can add metal to the old safety, I would recommend buying a safety too. Then keep your old set as a backup.

I prefer the John Harrison Hammer/sear sets with the True Radius sear. These are probably the best there is in my limited experience. These parts are not suppose to be drop in parts but the Harrison Hammer/sear sets are pretty close. The only thing I have ever done is to adj the travel required to release.
 
[QUOTE="Blue68f100, post: 11351610, member: 1554
I know I might have to replace my safety. Because it's amp. I'm going to wait and see, because they are not cheap. I hope I can dodge that expense.
 
Update, went to the smith to work on the springfield this afternoon. He talked me into just tuning the trigger group instead of starting over with new sear, hammer, and trigger.
He changed the mainspring did some lite work on the Sear, replaced trigger and did some lite stoning, polishing on the discon.
It's now breaks at 2.12 is crisp, clean shorter reset and I saved $100.00 in parts. He told me he could shave 4-5 Oz. using the new parts but I liked it so much the way it is I did not have him do it.
 
CharliesHammer said:
I have a Springfield loaded that has a nice trigger but I wan't a fantastic trigger. I have a local tuner who has done some good work on another Springfield and on a 586.
I have ordered an EGW sear and light EGW hammer. Was hoping to get the EGW disconnector but it's listed as XL. Does it matter if it's XL? I was trying to match the components.
My gun guy said he uses the EGW sears. My problem is that he just left for a family vacation, so I would never call or text him on vacation. I have a good coupon plus a good sale that is about to expire.

I also have two triggers an STI and a match Wilson. Any preference? In the past the tuner provided the parts but I hate to miss a deal. My loading buddy tells me I can polish a penny with the best of them.
Click to expand...
 
I didn’t read through the answers, but I’d would suggest ordering an Ed Brown steel firing pin first. SA uses a lightweight titanium firing pin and a super heavy mainspring as SA uses a 70 series setup. Also, replace the mainspring housing if yours has the lock. Get a 19# mainspring, a steel firing pin, and start there.
 
Also, be sure to order the correct firing pin since SA has a different hammer nose diameter
 
Gunman1981 said:
Also, be sure to order the correct firing pin since SA has a different hammer nose diameter
Click to expand...

I believe you meant firing pin tip and firing pin hole on the breech face are different on a Springfield. They are also not consistent over the years. So measure first, then order the correct diameter firing pin.
 
Different ignition parts from different manufacturers (particularly the sear) are not only different designs, they are different sizes. Matching brand names does not guarantee that the sizes will match.

If your smith won't recommend a brand name, find a different smith.

There are no drop in parts on a 1911.

Good luck.
 
CharliesHammer said:
Update, went to the smith to work on the springfield this afternoon. He talked me into just tuning the trigger group instead of starting over with new sear, hammer, and trigger.
He changed the mainspring did some lite work on the Sear, replaced trigger and did some lite stoning, polishing on the discon.
It's now breaks at 2.12 is crisp, clean shorter reset and I saved $100.00 in parts. He told me he could shave 4-5 Oz. using the new parts but I liked it so much the way it is I did not have him do it.
Click to expand...
Sounds good!

Because I'm superstitious, I'd rack the slide as hard as I could, twice, to see if I could make it follow.
 
"Because I'm superstitious, I'd rack the slide as hard as I could, twice, to see if I could make it follow."

Both I and the tuner tried to get it to follow. It has approximately 800 rds through it and has shot flawlessly.
 
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