Shopping for a 357 revolver, help!!

The gun I feel the most foolish for letting go was a 4" stainless 686. Man, that gun just hung in my hand. Slick action and very good accuracy. I've had two GP100s (4" blued and 3" stainless). Good guns, but never felt as "right" in my mitts as that 686.

The one and only time I ever inspected a bump in the night was 10+ years ago with that Smith in my hand. My wife was out of town (this was before my daughter was born), and I heard the strangest animal noises coming from my back yard. I was watching TV in the wee hours in the living room as I never sleep well when my wife is gone. I could hear something heavy move across the concrete patio. The dog was inside with me, and we had a picket fence so it wasn't just open to animals to cut through. I decided to go out the front door and flank around the side yard. We lived in a crackerbox starter home in a newly built neighborhood that butts up to 1000s of acres of farmland, so I had no idea what I was going to find. I figured I would be less likely to be noticed that way and the backlight of the house lights wouldn't ruin my night vision if I approached in the dark.

Long story short and anticlimactic, I never figured out what was moving through my yard at 1am, but I felt a lot better with that Smith hanging on my side.

I'll be 39 next month. I have an expensive year coming up with a few big trips, so it's going to be a "knife year" for me with no gun purchases. However, for my 40th, I think I will have earned a new .357. A 4" 686 with wood grips like my old one may just be what the doctor ordered

Good luck!

I like both the GP100 and the 686 pretty much equally. Some days I'll shoot one well and decide it's my favorite 357, another day I'll shoot the other one better and decide it's my favorite 357, etc.

But if you ever need to use a defensive gun, you'll probably be wanting to shoot it DA in a hurry, and the 686 has a lot better DA trigger than the Ruger. So put me down for a 4" 686.

I don't like the SP101s at all, although they would be easier to pack than a 686. And while the Rossis/Tauruses can be hit or miss, both of mine are misses and pretty much just hang around at the back of the safe.

One lesson I've learned the hard way: if you really want a certain gun, buying a cheaper substitute won't make you happy. Either buy what you want or hold off and don't get anything.

Ruger... GP100, 4" barrel.

Can't go wrong with a 686.

Ruger GP100
S&W 686 or 686 Plus
S&W 627
S&W 327 TRR8
Colt Python 2020

I think any one of these guns would serve you well. The Ruger will likely have the lowest price and it's a pretty good gun out of the box. You'll still need some trigger work, maybe charge hole chamfer, and possibly swap out the stocks.

SW 686-6 will likely offer the best deal. I love mine and wouldn't trade it for a pre lock in the same configuration.

I shoot a 686-4 4" and really like it however I only shoot cast bullets and it is a barrel leading bugger. I've gone to the gas-checked 358156 bullet for a clean barrel and good shooting.

Nothing wrong with the 3 Taurus I own. I’ve been looking to buy a Taurus tracker 357 with a 4 inch barrel. Nothing wrong with a Ruger or smith either. I love my Ruger SRH in 41 mag.

You may find these at a good price in 2 3/4, 4 and 6" in blue or stainless. This one is chambered in .357 Magnum.

fireside44 said:

I noticed the cyclops has begun to command a small premium over the past few years. Same action as the 971 and 720 just with a longer heavier barrel and underlug from my understanding. Really too bad because Rossi really stepped up the game in the 90s before getting forced into braztech/taurus.

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Yeah the Cyclops is sorta the "poor man's" Python.

Well, going with your original post, I would say that you should at least take a look at the Taurus 692. Takes 38 spl, .357 Magnum, and 9mm on moon clips. Cylinder swaps out quickly. I have one and like it, but it is not my favorite 9mm revolver, or my favorite .357.

As far as .357 goes, My favorites are:
Taurus 605 - very small and light for a .357, surprisingly comfortable to shoot. (although for snubbies, 9mm makes a lot more sense if you don't mind moon clips.)
Taurus 66 - Mine has the best DA trigger pull in my stack of revolvers.
Smith 686 - The single action trigger pull is amazing.

An honorable mention goes to the SP101, but out of the box it was painful to shoot. Hogues helped a little, but Pachmayrs finally solved my issues shooting it. Shill heavier than the Taurus 605...but better looking.

I've got S&W and Rugers, so, no dog in the fight, and I say go for the GP100. IMO, the GP100, in .357, is the standout, in the crowd, now.

JeeperCreeper said:

OP here,

I'm very close to buying a surplus S&W model 10-6 is 38 special from Classic.

But also found some surplus S&W model 65 .357 in excellent condition online as well.

Anyone else got any leads on surplus stuff as a cheaper option?

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I love K Frame Smiths. Especially the 3" 65. But a K Frame is not a workhorse .357. It is smaller and lighter and that's great for carrying, there are issues with the forcing cone and high velocity lighter weight bullets. If you get a model 65, don't plan on a steady diet of full-power magnums. The 5/686 L Frame, or GP100 are your workhorses and will eat as much of whatever you want to feed them with little or no complaint.

Pudge said:

I love K Frame Smiths. Especially the 3" 65. But a K Frame is not a workhorse .357. It is smaller and lighter and that's great for carrying, there are issues with the forcing cone and high velocity lighter weight bullets. If you get a model 65, don't plan on a steady diet of full-power magnums. The 5/686 L Frame, or GP100 are your workhorses and will eat as much of whatever you want to feed them with little or no complaint.

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I once believed that as well, truth be told, flame cutting and cracked forcing cones can happen to any revolver regardless of make and model. As with all things, moderation is the way to go. They once fed lab rats hundreds of grams of saccharine and then declared that it causes cancer. Drink too much water and you'll die too. For someone looking for a good little shooter and carrier the K frame has proven itself.
I will concede that if a person plans on shooting any gun thousands of rounds a year then the K frame is not the way to go but for carry and regular monthly practice it's fine. I've yet to read a gun writer that has actually caused a cracked cone.

george29 said:

I once believed that as well, truth be told, flame cutting and cracked forcing cones can happen to any revolver regardless of make and model. As with all things, moderation is the way to go. They once fed lab rats hundreds of grams of saccharine and then declared that it causes cancer. Drink too much water and you'll die too. For someone looking for a good little shooter and carrier the K frame has proven itself.
I will concede that if a person plans on shooting any gun thousands of rounds a year then the K frame is not the way to go but for carry and regular monthly practice it's fine. I've yet to read a gun writer that has actually caused a cracked cone.

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That's as may be, but I have seen enough pictures and testimony to lead me to believe that a K Frame is not as durable as an L Frame or a Ruger GP, nor would I suggest that hot 125 grain loads are wise in a K Frame. I shoot, carry and love my K Frames, but I do not consider them workhorses. I don't consider a GP 100 as fine a carry piece as a K Frame, and would suggest weight and bulk are worthy considerations if that's the intended purpose of the .357. And while K Frames are far from fragile, being aware of potential issues, especially if considering a used service weapon with an unknown history is beneficial to a prospective buyer.

george29 said:

I once believed that as well, truth be told, flame cutting and cracked forcing cones can happen to any revolver regardless of make and model. As with all things, moderation is the way to go. They once fed lab rats hundreds of grams of saccharine and then declared that it causes cancer. Drink too much water and you'll die too. For someone looking for a good little shooter and carrier the K frame has proven itself.
I will concede that if a person plans on shooting any gun thousands of rounds a year then the K frame is not the way to go but for carry and regular monthly practice it's fine. I've yet to read a gun writer that has actually caused a cracked cone.

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I never believed it. My first centerfire gun was a 6" model 19 and I shot every high speed light bullet load I had powder for. Lots of 110 and 125gr bullets with the max loads from the Speer #10 manual and never had a single problem. This was pre-internet days so didn't know the danger I was in. And I have seen several pics of GP-100s with eroded forcing cones so if high speed light weight bullets are the cause of this then they can damage any gun.

I don't shoot many light weight bullets anymore anyway. I seem to get better accuracy with the closer to standard weight (158gr) bullets. And now most 357 loads are slightly reduced power more in line with the old 38/44 style loads with a 158gr lead bullets going around 1150fps. Those do all want to do for day to day shooting.

Pudge said:

That's as may be, but I have seen enough pictures and testimony to lead me to believe that a K Frame is not as durable as an L Frame or a Ruger GP, nor would I suggest that hot 125 grain loads are wise in a K Frame. I shoot, carry and love my K Frames, but I do not consider them workhorses. I don't consider a GP 100 as fine a carry piece as a K Frame, and would suggest weight and bulk are worthy considerations if that's the intended purpose of the .357. And while K Frames are far from fragile, being aware of potential issues, especially if considering a used service weapon with an unknown history is beneficial to a prospective buyer.

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Workhorses in the sense of range work? Just depends on what you're shooting. Then again, the K frame was introduced as a carry gun replacing the too large too heavy N framed M28. I owned one of the first 686's and it was a nice gun but the K just fits better for everyday wear. There are minute differences but isn't that what makes one gun preferable to another? The G48 and the G19 are also very minute but I for one could never find the comfort zone of a 19 that the 48 gives me.
I like the GP100, especially the 5" partial lug model but I also love my bull barrel 4" 65 which is the right balance between carry and shooting, but I rarely carry it anymore, that distinction goes to my G48 and S&W340.
I do agree that the K is a .38 special practice and .357 carry but what really screws up guns more than flame cutting and cone cracking is shooting a gun loose and getting that horrible end shake. So if I were to buy a shoot em up 357 it wouldn't be an L frame but an N frame.
I would add, and please, don't get upset for the truth, but 686's and GP100's are plentiful but a good K at a reasonable price is hard to find unless it's police surplus. AIM surplus was selling M65's at $300 but they were police surplus and of course all sold out. Their M64's are $370 and that's a .38 police surplus. Their better quality 64's were $400 and sold out as well.
OP, GP's are going good on gunbroker for anywhere between $290 and $550 but those are ongoing auctions.
Maybe start there.

I picked up a used 686+ 3"bbl from Buds a few years back. The action has been slicked by a S&W factory certified armorer (ex LE ) who is a close friend. I recently saw the same 686+ model featured in one of Jerry Michulek's videos which makes we want to shoot it more. ....38spl & 357 brass cases are in the tumbler!

Im in the same boat as the OP looking for a good 357 that can dual as a range gun and a carry gun if the Sp101 had better sights on it it would be a winner looking hard at the 4" one but not sure about the fiberoptic sights

I did a quick scan through the previous posts and saw the usual smith/Taurus/Rugers suggested, but didn’t see this one yet:

Dan Wesson 15-2.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/852477362

This one would be your carry gun with a 2.5” barrel. Want a range blaster? Buy a 4, 6, or 8” barrel assembly and you’re set with the exact same grip and trigger you plan on carrying...

JeeperCreeper said:

OP here,

So I had a busy day and I thank you all for the advice!! I went to 2 big box stores, and 2 LGS... Here's what I tried

Ruger:
GP100 standard
GP100 7 shot
GP100 match champion
Redhawk 8 shot
Redhawk 45 colt/acp

S&W:
686 in a bunch of variations

Conclusion: I like them all. Balance, ergos, trigger, sights.... All great. So it's gonna come down to finding a good price.

I'm gonna keep looking used. Found a LNIB stainless 6" GP100 used for $550. Kinda fair, but I'm in a tough market. And the barrel is slightly longer than I want.

Also found 2 Ruger Redhawk 8 shots for $725 used. Considering those maybe.

I'll have to keep checking online prices

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Is it then about the deal more than the gun? You hinted at that in your original post.

Personally I have had a couple GP100s and prefer the half lug in my Match Champion 2nd gen with adj sights. I don't shoot it near as well as my S&W 19-4. I load the Smith classic more moderately and save the heavier stuff for the GP100. However, a true full bore 357 Magnum is a bigger gun than either of mine. Those are pretty heavy unless bored out to more than 6 rounds.

I have an opinion which many disagree with, but as it is my opinion I will share it with you.
Smith&Wesson made a mistake by chambering their "J" and "K" frame size revolvers in 357MAG.
At nearly twice the pressure of the 38SPL, magnum level rounds fired in the smaller frame sizes stresses the shooter excessively, and the gun itself.
I will stick to shooting 357MAG in "L" frame revolvers.

P5 Guy said:

..... magnum level rounds fired in the smaller frame sizes stresses the shooter excessively.....

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When your life depends upon it, or even while engaged in hunting, you'll never even feel it go off.