Question about primer pocket uniformer

Leather glove

Walkalong

I concur but have only used cci and Remington large and small pistol primers depending on what the brass requires.

Those were a problem with the primers not the pocket. A lot of people had problem with them, including me. I just learned to bear down on them till they seated all the way.

I generally think of making primer pockets uniform as an operation for very maticulously assembled bench rest target ammo... not hand gun ammo. Personally I would just stick with the primer brands that work well without needing to ream the primer pockets in your brass. With any sort of quantity reaming primer pockets would get old really quick.

you only have to do this operation once per case.

the setscrew should be preset. you can check the depth with the butt end of a caliper.

luck,

murf

My answer to your question......spend more money.

RCBS Trim Mate or a tool like it. I sure wouldn't do it by hand....that's masochistic.

That's the little green tool in the back of the picture.....there are other brands that work just as good. Plus you can ream military crimps, chamfer and deburr case mouths and deburr flash holes at the same time.


My favorite use for a Uniformer is to make all the primer pockets the same depth, so my uniform depth setting on my progressives pushes primers in below flush the same amount for a whole batch....whether 50, 100, or a 1000.

MikeInOr said:

I generally think of making primer pockets uniform as an operation for very meticulously assembled bench rest target ammo... not hand gun ammo.

Click to expand...

Yet a uniformer is useful for any batch of cases that don't have uniform primer holes, when you experience it. But most especially useful for AR15 or AR10 style rifles where a proud primer and a floating firing pin can cause slamfires.

Hmmmm....."floating firing pins"......

I remember when this type discussion would be centered around sensitive primers and military arms with floating firing pins, mainly the M1 with OPs worrying about slamfires.

New generation....plastic rather than wood, still with floating firing pins......do ARs slamfire?

So the low teck solution would be to get those fabric gloves with the plastic gripper dots on them and put a square of duct tape where the mouth would hit your palm. Multiple layers is better to keep from cutting through. Makes it easier to grip brass when holding it for such operations for me. YMMV

I have a bunch of different tools for working on primer pockets. One of them cuts the bottom of the primer pocket flat and to the same depth. Another cuts the crimp but also cuts or uniforms the sides of the pocket. I prefer the non adjustable tools for uniforming the bottom of the pocket. It sounds like you may need to do both things. Its kind of a pain but it only needs doing once.

Get a pair of the mechanics gloves. They have a grippe surface for grabbing things.

PWC said:

Hmmmm....."floating firing pins"......

I remember when this type discussion would be centered around sensitive primers and military arms with floating firing pins, mainly the M1 with OPs worrying about slamfires.

New generation....plastic rather than wood, still with floating firing pins......do ARs slamfire?

Click to expand...

Only if you leave your primers high.

First hand experience with that....and while I "normally" check for high primers.....it only takes one. Embarrassing too....a friend and fellow reloader got a surprise, shooting my new (at the time) Remington R25... an AR10 7.62 clone. We were shooting at a target in the Southern Colorado outback, and he wanted to try the AR out. First shot went BoomBoom....a twofer! He looked at me like, "what the hell?" We didn't shoot any more.....til I looked at the batch of 100 real close first....and yes I found one more proud primer in the lot.

What's more, I had used a uniformer on the old 67LC brass after swaging! Found out that I STILL shoulda watched, because that very old hard brass didn't always swage normally.....at least two times it sheared instead of swaged. That's to say it sheared that crimp, yeah, cut it off! A tiny sliver of brass was pushed into the bottom of the pocket, where it stayed even after using the Uniformer. How, Why? Because it rotated in the bottom with the uniformer, keeping the uniformer from cutting anything.

I broke down the other round with the proud primer and found another sliver of brass in that cup. MORAL: even if you swage and uniform....check the cup bottom before you prime.....and at the very least check for High Primers even if you are SURE there couldn't be one.

Oh! BTW, they weren't sensitive Federal primers....CCI's (but not military CCI's). We shot the rest of the batch with zero problems....and eventually my friend quit flinching...

I was testing primers and one of the primers I was testing, was the Fed GM205M. I expected it to fire when the bolt closed and it did. I only loaded 1 round since I expected this to happen. This was on my 6.5CM AR-10 that I built. I have the JP Enterprise High Pressure bolt in this gun due to pierced and bad primer flow from the std 308 bolt. This bolt uses a lighten FP with a 0.062" pin dia like the AR-15. My brass was Starline with the small primers. To confirm it did it again. So I had to ease the bolt down to test. Still have 990 of the primers left out of the carton. I did get good results on the target, but will not use them in my AR. The GM205MAR work just fine since they were designed for use in AR's with floating FPs