Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound in a tumbler

Yes, keeps the dust down and puts a nice thin coating of wax on the cases so they don't tarnish as fast. With straight wall pistol cases and carbide dies its all the lubrication you need for resizing and they good nice and smooth and easy.

Two things:
1. Do you mean Turtlewax wax and not rubbing compound? I've not heard of adding rubbing compound to the media, although I think maybe some commercial walnut does contain some jeweler's rouge.
2. You mention a "tub" of Turtlewax which infers paste. How do you plan to mix it with the walnut?
3. (okay, so I lied about "Two things", I thought of another one): I'm with you on using Flitz tumbler media additive (not the abrasive polish). It's more expensive, but not too much so in the big picture. ymmv

Yeah to be clear I use Turtle Wax Carnauba Liquid. (https://www.turtlewax.com/en-us/our-products/essentials/turtle-wax-carnauba-wax-liquid/)

Rubbing compounds contain abrasives.

mrawesome22-250 said:

Rubbing compounds contain abrasives.

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The walnut shells are an abrasive too. Lyman and a few other media makers actually sells walnut shell with red jeweler rouge coating on them. It polishes the brass pretty fast.

I've been using Turtle wax scratch and swirl remover https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-scratch-swirl-remover/ after I put in I run the tumbler for a hour or so before I put any cases in

Anything with wax and mild abrasive is likely to work if you don’t overdo it.

Blackbeard 44 said:

anyone ever used Turtle wax rubbing compound in their tumbler?

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Welcome to THR and world of reloading.

I would not use "rubbing" compound as they contain abrasives.

Instead of "paste wax", you want to use "liquid wax/polish" products made from synthetic polymers (NuFinish or Turtle Wax). Pour 1-2 capfuls on new walnut media while running (I prefer fine grit to not get stuck in flash holes) and stir with stick to expedite distribution (takes a few minutes) or you will get gooey stuck media inside the case.

Range brass will clean in 15-20 minutes and shiny in about an hour.

I add additional capful every other batch of brass or as necessary. Too much liquid polish added to media will gum up brass instead of cleaning/polishing.

Tossing in quarter cut used dryer sheets help collect black/carbon soot and extend the life of media.

if you tumble brass after it has case lube on it, that lubricant gets into the media - so, adding more wax or lube doesn't make sense to me if you do that. personally, I don't think it matters to much, a fine rubbing compound will clean/polish for sure - I've added simple green cleaner, and an ounce or so of mineral spirits just to liven things up - when I didn't think it was performing and cleaning cases well after a few hours. if you search the treads you'll find some common things people use, and all sorts of things people use and say works. I just used what I had on my bench that was the fastest thing I could grab and move onto the next project

They look nice!

I don't know that I would eat off them, but if there's no sand or grit on 'em you're good to go.
They'll get another go round in the tumbler after you size them, too.

I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Mothers Mag Polish in the liquid form. Rubbing Compound in my opinion would had too much abrasive. It would probably look good up front but I woud be afraid the fine scratches that may be put in the brass might eventually cause more problems than normal dirty brass would.

Blackbeard 44 said:

How long do you think they could sit sealed in a bag before they begin to tarnish?

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My brass tumbled with NuFinish/Turtle Wax liquid polish leaves residual polymer coating on brass surface and brass stay shiny tarnish-free for 6 months to 1 year inside plastic Folger coffee cans (I usually reload the brass before the year).

I imagine if sealed in a plastic bag, brass may stay tarnish free for years.

Eddietruett said:

Rubbing Compound in my opinion would had too much abrasive.

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My concern over abrasive in tumbling media is residual abrasive left on brass scratching dies.

I use NuFinish... tarnish free for 1-2 years (though I rarely have any on the shelf for that long!)

I have 30-06 cartridges that were stainless tumbled, processed with OneShot and loaded. The lube was left on. They have been mirror bright for the last three years. The un-lubed bullets have tarnished.

I’d show a pic, but they don’t photo well. It always turns out as just one big sun beam...

Yes it’s still cheaper to reload 9mm and .40 than to buy it unless you shoot garbage steel cased Russian stuff. Sometimes you can get deals on that to get you down to the price of a reloaded brass cartridge. If you scrounge and cast your own lead pills you can load 9mm for about 2-3 cents for a primer and a couple cents for powder. If you buy lubed lead or coated or plated you can get 9mm bullets for $.06-.07 per, shipped, if you buy in bulk and keep your eyes open.

this of course doesn’t take any of your time and effort into account. But the cost of factory quality ammo recently has been $.17ish a shot if you buy by the thousands on special sales. Even if you pay $.10 for your bullet you still are reloading for less.

unless you count your time into the costs.