GunnyUSMC
Member
I much prefer to buy the lower parts kits without the fire control group and buy a decent trigger. The best upgrade you can do on an AR is a better fire control group.
AR Builds -- What Parts Did You Choose and Why??
- Thread starter Mike1234567
- Start date
GunnyUSMC - Have you tried one of the coated LPK's from Anderson?
They are NOT a 3 lb trigger, but break rather nicely.
GunnyUSMC
Member
I have found three triggers that I like.
For hunting, the LaRue MBT= $80
A smooth duty trigger AGL ACT= $70
For a nice duty trigger that breaks clean, the Hiperfire Heavy Gunner = $90
If you shoot ammo with hard primers, the Hiperfire would be the one to go with.
RavenTai
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2008
- Messages
- 145
My first AR was a 20" bushmaster post ban very heavy barrel, from 1999, I figured out after I bought it that a 15 pound nose heavy AR is very annoying. When comparing to other AR's The accuracy gains from the HBAR were slight, but the weight was a huge penalty, and I won't do that again. An AR should be light and manuverable. Heavy guns should be either bech rest bolts or fire something larger than .22 cal. I was missing the benefits of the design.
Later in 2013 I tried again, I wanted compact as possible, reliable and lightweight, without much else, for home/property defence most likely at night. And I wanted a bayonet lug, not because I want to put a knife on a gun but because I don't want to be told I can't. And besides a bare crown just looks wrong an an AR.
Upper is a complete BCM mid length pencil barrel, basic plastic magpul fore-end with about 1.5" of plastic rail for a compact pistol style flashlight with a switch at my support hands thumb. Rear sight is a magpul plastic flip up.
Mid length becuase carbine length gas system is for 14.5" barrels, and over gasses on a 16" you can work arround it with tuning, heavier buffers and gas regulators etc, but imo just avoid all of that hassle and go mid length unless you want to pay the SBR tax.
Lower was a spikes tactical I got in trade, works great.
A one piece polymer lower/buttock would have saved more weight but it is the other end, muzzle weight is where it counts. It's not just total weight but ballance.
Gun is good quality but not expensive
regular milspec parts, forged receivers, the light weight and much better balance makes the gun nice to handle and move arround with, perfectly reliable, very accurate for the ranges I need (<100 yd)
Later in 2013 I tried again, I wanted compact as possible, reliable and lightweight, without much else, for home/property defence most likely at night. And I wanted a bayonet lug, not because I want to put a knife on a gun but because I don't want to be told I can't. And besides a bare crown just looks wrong an an AR.
Upper is a complete BCM mid length pencil barrel, basic plastic magpul fore-end with about 1.5" of plastic rail for a compact pistol style flashlight with a switch at my support hands thumb. Rear sight is a magpul plastic flip up.
Mid length becuase carbine length gas system is for 14.5" barrels, and over gasses on a 16" you can work arround it with tuning, heavier buffers and gas regulators etc, but imo just avoid all of that hassle and go mid length unless you want to pay the SBR tax.
Lower was a spikes tactical I got in trade, works great.
A one piece polymer lower/buttock would have saved more weight but it is the other end, muzzle weight is where it counts. It's not just total weight but ballance.
Gun is good quality but not expensive
regular milspec parts, forged receivers, the light weight and much better balance makes the gun nice to handle and move arround with, perfectly reliable, very accurate for the ranges I need (<100 yd)
Well here' s my first build. Hope to get time to fire it soon, very basic. Trying to work on a tight budget everything was picked out over several weeks on pretty good sales, some really good sales actually. I just wanted a simple handy all purpose plinker.
Aero upper and lower
Magpul furniture
Ballistic modern govt 16" mid had them mount the A2 sight
CMMG lower parts
PSA BCG on sale for $59 marked down from $149
Not mounted yet is a budget red dot from Amazon called Feyachi, the dot flares a bit on the lowest setting, not sure I'm going to be happy with that, I'm open to suggestions for something better.
Bonus is that Primary arms is 15 minutes away, they got a lot of my business.
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F-111 John
Member
Nice looking rifle. I like the green furniture, it's a welcome break from black and FDE.
Question: Why did you go with a FSP and Delta Rings instead of a free float M-LOK handguard?
badkarmamib
Member
Look at Vortex, Holosun, Sig Sauer, and Primary Arms for performance on a budget. Anything cheaper than these options will leave you disappointed, IMHO.
Thanks, I think multiple things came into play, I like the olive drab myself. Price wise the MOE slim hand guard was hard to beat at $30 and I like both look and the feel of it in hand, I'm kind of partial to the simple traditional look as well.
To answer badkarma, I suspect you're right, I'm second guessing the cheap red dot. For $50 to $70 more the Sig Romeo5 and Primary Arms dots seem to have a lot of happy customers.
Skylerbone
Member
AR #7 parts staging, only minus the grip which is in transit.
Anderson lower
Anderson Whoops Kit (pins, detents, springs)
ALG QMS fcg
Kaw Valley carbine receiver extension with H2 buffer
Strike Industries Extended bolt catch
Black Rain magazine catch
Phase 5 magazine release button
Phase 5 trigger guard
Phase 5 selector switch
Phase 5 Ambi Battle Latch charging handle
Ergo Grips 2 Cobalt Camo
I chose Anderson for the lower because I’ve assembled 3 others without a hitch and I expect this one to be the same. I’ve used the QMS before and feel it's a good training trigger for younger shooters who aren’t overly familiar with target level sub-2 lb while working toward that goal. My pistol build wears a Kaw Valley extension/buffer and I have used several of their linear compensators. I intentionally ordered this one with the H3 buffer to swap with my pistol’s (5.56 with 7.5” barrel) H2 buffer since long term this rifle will be configured as a mid-length or rifle gas build for which an H2 should be fine.
The SI extended bolt catch is a love it or hate it proposition, but I’ve tried several others and this one has been my favorite so far. The balance of the controls from Phase 5 are the same ones I used for my RRA Operator retrofit which look good and function well, and, as with most of the family’s ARs, the ERGO feels better in hand than the typical aggressive textured plastic ones.
The color scheme was my daughter’s choice and her upgrade for yet another no absences, no tardys, straight A’s report card. Build should commence some time next week followed by a part 2, choosing upper components. As always this lower will be configured as a pistol first to keep things flexible after. More pictures upon completion.
Anderson lower
Anderson Whoops Kit (pins, detents, springs)
ALG QMS fcg
Kaw Valley carbine receiver extension with H2 buffer
Strike Industries Extended bolt catch
Black Rain magazine catch
Phase 5 magazine release button
Phase 5 trigger guard
Phase 5 selector switch
Phase 5 Ambi Battle Latch charging handle
Ergo Grips 2 Cobalt Camo
I chose Anderson for the lower because I’ve assembled 3 others without a hitch and I expect this one to be the same. I’ve used the QMS before and feel it's a good training trigger for younger shooters who aren’t overly familiar with target level sub-2 lb while working toward that goal. My pistol build wears a Kaw Valley extension/buffer and I have used several of their linear compensators. I intentionally ordered this one with the H3 buffer to swap with my pistol’s (5.56 with 7.5” barrel) H2 buffer since long term this rifle will be configured as a mid-length or rifle gas build for which an H2 should be fine.
The SI extended bolt catch is a love it or hate it proposition, but I’ve tried several others and this one has been my favorite so far. The balance of the controls from Phase 5 are the same ones I used for my RRA Operator retrofit which look good and function well, and, as with most of the family’s ARs, the ERGO feels better in hand than the typical aggressive textured plastic ones.
The color scheme was my daughter’s choice and her upgrade for yet another no absences, no tardys, straight A’s report card. Build should commence some time next week followed by a part 2, choosing upper components. As always this lower will be configured as a pistol first to keep things flexible after. More pictures upon completion.
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troy fairweather
Member
Well mine is about done, it taken longer then it should. I don't have the budget to truly build it how I would want it, plus I live in ny so there's that.
Big thanks to luke and loonwulf.
upper receiver, aero precision
Handguard, s&w m&p quad rail think it's 10'' from luke
Barrel, 16'' BCA stainless hbar. Capped and pinned
Bcg, mpi
Lower, anderson
Parts kit, cmmg
Stock, thordsen frs-15 od
Sights unknown make flipups. Red dot. Burris ff3 with ar mount, from loonwulf
Slig, just trying if I'd like a one point.
Big thanks to luke and loonwulf.
upper receiver, aero precision
Handguard, s&w m&p quad rail think it's 10'' from luke
Barrel, 16'' BCA stainless hbar. Capped and pinned
Bcg, mpi
Lower, anderson
Parts kit, cmmg
Stock, thordsen frs-15 od
Sights unknown make flipups. Red dot. Burris ff3 with ar mount, from loonwulf
Slig, just trying if I'd like a one point.
Skylerbone
Member
The follow up from Post #284. At present it is wearing my upper with Aero upper, Ballistic Advantage 16” middy pencil 1:7 twist nitride, Phase 5 15” M-LOK Low Pro Slope Nose handguard, KVP linear comp, and ToolCraft nitride BCG.
Configured as a pistol with brace first.
Recorded S/N (blacked out) for verification of pistol build.
And now a rifle with what may be the ideal upper for a 13 year old girl.
Configured as a pistol with brace first.
Recorded S/N (blacked out) for verification of pistol build.
And now a rifle with what may be the ideal upper for a 13 year old girl.
BSA1
member
I finished this AR yesterday so I will show it off.
Anderson Lower
ALG Defense QMS trigger and hammer (l have found that I dislike the QMS. Fortunately @GunnyUSMC cleaned it up and made it usable for me. I now use ALG Defense ACT instead).
VSeven Ultra Light Bolt Catch
Mission First Tactical Stock and Grip
Anderson Lightweight Smooth Side Upper
16” Nitride 1 in 7” Pencil Barrel for .625 Gas Block
Midwest Industries Low Profile Gas Block
15” Free Float Handguard
A2 Flash Hider
Full Auto BCG from Aero Precision
Expo Arms Standard Charging Handle
SIG Romeo5 Red Dot Sight
UTG Low-Profile Flip-up Front and Rear Sights because I do not trust batteries.
I had a brief 50 round shooting session to function test and sight-in the Red Dot sight. Due to weather conditions I did not make a serious accuracy test. Likely going to be a few more months before I can do some serious accuracy testing.
Initial impression is I really like out it turned out.
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I've built and repaired MANY AR-15s. Just make sure that you buy your parts from a reputable place. Don't skimp on the small parts kits. Don't just get what's cheap. Get good quality pins and springs. I usually get mine from Bravo Company, as well as my BCGs. Might as well get your gas tube and rings from them too. I've managed to burn through more than a couple of cheap gas tubes.
Barrel- I used a 14.5" 1:9 twist Bushmaster because it's what I had. If you want something a step above in accuracy, I'd probably go with a Krieger. They've never disappointed. I would advise against any sort of bull barrel, unless this is going to be a bench gun and you want the weight for stability. A good barrel is a good barrel. A bad barrel is a bad barrel and making it fat and heavy isn't going to make it any more accurate. For a good, reasonably priced barrel, Palmetto has some nice options. Given a choice, I'd prefer a chrome lined barrel, but have never been too worried about whether it is cold hammer forged or not.
Muzzle device- Levang linear compensator. It looked cool, it spits everything forward and it actually does a good job of helping to keep the muzzle down, although i admittedly don't understand how. It had enough meat on it that I was able to drill, tap it and put a set screw in it then welded over the hole for a permanent install.
Handguard- Oddly enough, I went with a model 1 sales plain tube. It's actually pretty nice. I hate the feel of the "tactical" free float handguards. They are downright uncomfortable. The tube is very comfortable. I just drilled and tapped it and mounted sections of rail where I needed them. Honestly though, if I knew back then what I know now, I would have just gone with a conventional barrel nut and MOE furniture. A dissipator build is probably the most flexible.
Upper- Daniel Defense. I chose this because I just had good experience with them. I've never had to face one off to make the barrel mounting surface square.
Lower- Spike's Tactical just because I thought the red spider looked cool.
Stock- Magpul UBR. Yeah, it's heavy, but it actually makes the rifle easier to carry and shoulder for extended periods. I am considering going back to plastic for the handguards. If I do that, the UBR is coming off.
Trigger- What else, Geissele (did I spell that right?) SSA-E. It isn't overly light, it's crisp, it does what it's supposed to do. It's also fast. I've had my rifle checked by several range officers to see if I was running a burst trigger.
Grip- Magpul MOE. It just feels good in my hand. I also like the storage. I keep a spare bolt in the Grip and a set of springs and pins in the stock.
Buffer - I have the heavy buffer filled with tungsten from spike's. I don't remember what it's called. I've had it for years and, well, it's a buffer. It does a good job of buffing. I can't say that it does a better job than a regular buffer.
Sight- Trijicon ACOG, TA44. Due to my handguard, I don't have open sights, so I wanted something that I was not likely to kill.
Barrel- I used a 14.5" 1:9 twist Bushmaster because it's what I had. If you want something a step above in accuracy, I'd probably go with a Krieger. They've never disappointed. I would advise against any sort of bull barrel, unless this is going to be a bench gun and you want the weight for stability. A good barrel is a good barrel. A bad barrel is a bad barrel and making it fat and heavy isn't going to make it any more accurate. For a good, reasonably priced barrel, Palmetto has some nice options. Given a choice, I'd prefer a chrome lined barrel, but have never been too worried about whether it is cold hammer forged or not.
Muzzle device- Levang linear compensator. It looked cool, it spits everything forward and it actually does a good job of helping to keep the muzzle down, although i admittedly don't understand how. It had enough meat on it that I was able to drill, tap it and put a set screw in it then welded over the hole for a permanent install.
Handguard- Oddly enough, I went with a model 1 sales plain tube. It's actually pretty nice. I hate the feel of the "tactical" free float handguards. They are downright uncomfortable. The tube is very comfortable. I just drilled and tapped it and mounted sections of rail where I needed them. Honestly though, if I knew back then what I know now, I would have just gone with a conventional barrel nut and MOE furniture. A dissipator build is probably the most flexible.
Upper- Daniel Defense. I chose this because I just had good experience with them. I've never had to face one off to make the barrel mounting surface square.
Lower- Spike's Tactical just because I thought the red spider looked cool.
Stock- Magpul UBR. Yeah, it's heavy, but it actually makes the rifle easier to carry and shoulder for extended periods. I am considering going back to plastic for the handguards. If I do that, the UBR is coming off.
Trigger- What else, Geissele (did I spell that right?) SSA-E. It isn't overly light, it's crisp, it does what it's supposed to do. It's also fast. I've had my rifle checked by several range officers to see if I was running a burst trigger.
Grip- Magpul MOE. It just feels good in my hand. I also like the storage. I keep a spare bolt in the Grip and a set of springs and pins in the stock.
Buffer - I have the heavy buffer filled with tungsten from spike's. I don't remember what it's called. I've had it for years and, well, it's a buffer. It does a good job of buffing. I can't say that it does a better job than a regular buffer.
Sight- Trijicon ACOG, TA44. Due to my handguard, I don't have open sights, so I wanted something that I was not likely to kill.
Recently completed two 308’s. Here’s the one I sighted in today:
Hellfire armory 308 80% lower.
Hellfire armory billet upper which I cut the shell deflector off and milled a slot for the...
Fulton armory side charging 308 bolt. NiB.
BCA stainless fluted 308 barrel... cheapo piece incongruous with the rest of the build, I know... it shoots ok but will go by the wayside when I can spare change for a faxon barrel and the bca will be denoted to a cheap blaster.
Odin gun works 15.5” keymod rail I got on sale.
JP enterprises adjustable gas block.
PSA buffer tube kit.
Magpul carbine stock
Hogue grip- my favorite. no finger grooves
Primary arms 1-6 scope
Timber creek 60* safety . Red. - an impulse purchase.
Birdcage on the muzzle until I have time to whip something out on the lathe.
Cerakoted upper/lower and barrel to “sniper gray”
The idea behind this is with the side charging bolt carrier in conjunction with the adjustable gas block, is to have the option of turning off the gas and cycling rounds by hand if, for whatever reason, I don’t want the noise of the action cycling. So far (first 100 rounds) I’m really happy with it.
Hellfire armory 308 80% lower.
Hellfire armory billet upper which I cut the shell deflector off and milled a slot for the...
Fulton armory side charging 308 bolt. NiB.
BCA stainless fluted 308 barrel... cheapo piece incongruous with the rest of the build, I know... it shoots ok but will go by the wayside when I can spare change for a faxon barrel and the bca will be denoted to a cheap blaster.
Odin gun works 15.5” keymod rail I got on sale.
JP enterprises adjustable gas block.
PSA buffer tube kit.
Magpul carbine stock
Hogue grip- my favorite. no finger grooves
Primary arms 1-6 scope
Timber creek 60* safety . Red. - an impulse purchase.
Birdcage on the muzzle until I have time to whip something out on the lathe.
Cerakoted upper/lower and barrel to “sniper gray”
The idea behind this is with the side charging bolt carrier in conjunction with the adjustable gas block, is to have the option of turning off the gas and cycling rounds by hand if, for whatever reason, I don’t want the noise of the action cycling. So far (first 100 rounds) I’m really happy with it.
I have been giving serious consideration to beginning my first build.
I am unfamiliar with the inner workings of the AR and parts compatability. Although I have been successful at doing basic backyard mods on every gun I've owned, so I'm not shy about working on things like rifles.
I like the AR- 10 concept for starters.
Can anyone direct me to some good instructional material to get started?
...Just to aid with basic intro to part interchangability and such stuff, before I start ordering things.
Another thing I'm considering is .358 winchester chambering.
I have a .308 and a .358 BLR rifle and the magazines are interchangable for those two cartridges and I have a fondness for the .358 chambering for certain purposes.
I've called a few of the outfits that sell AR kits and none of them pick up the phone.
Thanks in advance -
I am unfamiliar with the inner workings of the AR and parts compatability. Although I have been successful at doing basic backyard mods on every gun I've owned, so I'm not shy about working on things like rifles.
I like the AR- 10 concept for starters.
Can anyone direct me to some good instructional material to get started?
...Just to aid with basic intro to part interchangability and such stuff, before I start ordering things.
Another thing I'm considering is .358 winchester chambering.
I have a .308 and a .358 BLR rifle and the magazines are interchangable for those two cartridges and I have a fondness for the .358 chambering for certain purposes.
I've called a few of the outfits that sell AR kits and none of them pick up the phone.
Thanks in advance -
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There is no "standard" when it comes to the AR-10. There are two major competing platforms.
DPMS and LR pattern.
They don't play well. I would buy your bolt, upper receiver and lower receiver from the same source. CDNN is closing out a lot of DPMS stuff.
DPMS and LR pattern.
They don't play well. I would buy your bolt, upper receiver and lower receiver from the same source. CDNN is closing out a lot of DPMS stuff.
kimberkid
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,654
Bolt and Barrel ... when I built my 6.5 Creedmoor AR10 I had to either get the bolt and barrel together OR send them my bolt so they could headspace it. It was easier just buying the bolt and barrel from the same company. Also when I ordered my barrel they wanted to know if I was going to be using an Armalite, DPMS or KAC pattern receiver.
Also, getting the upper and lower is really good advice ... I've had 3 AR's from different manufacturers none of the uppers would fit on any of the other lowers.
Hmmm... Thanks for the replies
So - If I ordered the barrel shown below in the pic here, then I'd want to be sure I get a compatible bolt - Correct?
Such as the one shown above from the same company
And the lower is something that also could possibly be the source of fitment issues?
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The lr-308 IS dpms... I believe you meant to say that the two majors patterns are dpms (lr-308) and armalite (ar-10).
Here’s a random website with a description: https://monstrumtactical.com/blogs/guides/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ar-10-and-an-lr-308
The critical points are the angle at the rear of the upper/lower surfaces. There are a couple different sizes of pivot/takedown pin diameters. 2
Your barrel nut must match the pattern of your upper. 3 your hanguard rail height mush match your upper.I’ve mixed and matched all of my builds with no mishaps thus far... (I chose dpms pattern, low rail ) But ordering a matched upper/lower and a matched barrel/bolt is never a bad idea and will ward off potential problems.
The lr-308 IS dpms... I believe you meant to say that the two majors patterns are dpms (lr-308) and armalite (ar-10).
Here’s a random website with a description: https://monstrumtactical.com/blogs/guides/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ar-10-and-an-lr-308
The critical points are the angle at the rear of the upper/lower surfaces. There are a couple different sizes of pivot/takedown pin diameters. 2
I’ve mixed and matched all of my builds with no mishaps thus far... (I chose dpms pattern, low rail ) But ordering a matched upper/lower and a matched barrel/bolt is never a bad idea and will ward off potential problems.
Thanks for catching that. My fingers were moving faster than my brain.
Skylerbone
Member
A word of caution; DPMS has officially left the marketplace as of Feb. 6th. Not sure what if any impact that will have on support for the platform but Remington has pulled the plug on the company.
Space Ghost
Member
I put together the perfect .308 AR.
Now keep in mind, when I say that, I mean it's the perfect one... for me. I was looking to get into a .308 because I wanted the better terminal ballistics of the heavier round. What I didn't really need, was the increased range. This was to be a defensive combat carbine, but as it was to be "defensive" in nature, not one I would need to reach out long distances. Just maybe with a bit more oomph than the 5.56, or the ability to punch through cover better.
I did still want to keep it in as small, and light a package as I could. I like a patrol carbine, not a full on sniper rifle.
On the other hand, I've seen guys go too far with the "smaller is better" theory building 10" .308 pistols that though probably fun to play with, would pretty much cut the .308 off at the knees. I tried to make a decent compromise, and I'm pretty happy with the result.
Receivers... Aero Precision with their LPK
Barrel... BA Hanson 14" with pin-and-welded Warcomp
Rail system... Midwest Industries
Scope... Primary Arms 1-8 with the ACSS reticle
BUIS... Troy with tritium
BCG... Lantac enhanced
Recoil system... JP Captured
Trigger... Geissele SSA-E
Furniture... Magpul CTR stock, MOE grip, MVG M-LOK
Weaponlight... Surefire M300 Scout Light
Leftover ambidextrous safety that I can't remember where I got...
Leftover scope mount... same deal... just happened to work out well.
Anyway, the end result is the rifle is a bit heavier (as expected being a .308) but still very easily carried as a patrol carbine. I lose some velocity, and power going down to 14", but not as much as going crazy, and doing the full on SBR 10" thing. It still packs a lot more punch than a 5.56. It's very controllable. Not sure if that's because I'm a big dude (6'1" 280) with 28 years of Army experience, or the very effective Warcomp (probably both) but I like it. I really like the ACSS reticle.
Now keep in mind, when I say that, I mean it's the perfect one... for me. I was looking to get into a .308 because I wanted the better terminal ballistics of the heavier round. What I didn't really need, was the increased range. This was to be a defensive combat carbine, but as it was to be "defensive" in nature, not one I would need to reach out long distances. Just maybe with a bit more oomph than the 5.56, or the ability to punch through cover better.
I did still want to keep it in as small, and light a package as I could. I like a patrol carbine, not a full on sniper rifle.
On the other hand, I've seen guys go too far with the "smaller is better" theory building 10" .308 pistols that though probably fun to play with, would pretty much cut the .308 off at the knees. I tried to make a decent compromise, and I'm pretty happy with the result.
Receivers... Aero Precision with their LPK
Barrel... BA Hanson 14" with pin-and-welded Warcomp
Rail system... Midwest Industries
Scope... Primary Arms 1-8 with the ACSS reticle
BUIS... Troy with tritium
BCG... Lantac enhanced
Recoil system... JP Captured
Trigger... Geissele SSA-E
Furniture... Magpul CTR stock, MOE grip, MVG M-LOK
Weaponlight... Surefire M300 Scout Light
Leftover ambidextrous safety that I can't remember where I got...
Leftover scope mount... same deal... just happened to work out well.
Anyway, the end result is the rifle is a bit heavier (as expected being a .308) but still very easily carried as a patrol carbine. I lose some velocity, and power going down to 14", but not as much as going crazy, and doing the full on SBR 10" thing. It still packs a lot more punch than a 5.56. It's very controllable. Not sure if that's because I'm a big dude (6'1" 280) with 28 years of Army experience, or the very effective Warcomp (probably both) but I like it. I really like the ACSS reticle.
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On my .308 - Still in the decision making process.
I like the idea of a sidepull bolt device, but the barrel I want is a stainless 20" from a different manufacturer.
Then there's the gen 1, 2 or 3 that has me confused. I've been trying to educate myself by inquiring and watching videos.
I don't want to end up with a bunch of incompatible parts and spend money that I'll regret.
I figure that I'll probably make some mistakes anyhow but I want to minimize that.
Also, with the virus thing... For whatever reasons, customer service isn't picking up phone calls so it's difficult to speak with someone 1 on 1 from the vendors.
I like the idea of a sidepull bolt device, but the barrel I want is a stainless 20" from a different manufacturer.
Then there's the gen 1, 2 or 3 that has me confused. I've been trying to educate myself by inquiring and watching videos.
I don't want to end up with a bunch of incompatible parts and spend money that I'll regret.
I figure that I'll probably make some mistakes anyhow but I want to minimize that.
Also, with the virus thing... For whatever reasons, customer service isn't picking up phone calls so it's difficult to speak with someone 1 on 1 from the vendors.
GunnyUSMC
Member
Go with Areo Precision parts and you will be fine.
