What lube do you like for the pivots on your folding knives?

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You answered your own question since gummy is fine for candy but not for knives.
What I’ve noticed is that reapplication of Hoppe’s seems to keep any remaining oil hydrated and the gummy phase seems to be avoided. But there’s a lot of good suggestions here on alternative products and it’s not like they are terribly expensive.

Thanks for the input all. I appreciate it.
 
That said, for my folders I always use a good quality gun oil (Break Free, Gunslik, and others) for the moving parts. I only own blades with standard type pivots (with one exception, a full sized Griptilian that's never actually been used yet - it's a backup blade for my skiff..). For the blade surfaces I simply use an oily rag that's got some semi-synthetic outboard oil on it - then carefully remove any residue with a dry cloth...
The pivot is actually something I did a lot of reading about regarding the 0609. You need a special tool from Kershaw to take the knife apart. A lot of reviewers criticized ZT for this, especially since the tool doesn’t come with the knife. I can understand why. It wasn’t a great decision on their part IMO, but I wonder how many people that buy the 0609 will ever actually take it apart. They even released the knife before the tool was available.

I got lucky on the deal and got the knife and pivot tool for less than the going rate of the knife alone.
 
But I haven't lubed a bike chain in 50+ years, and jeans didn't show the stains.
I've been using White Lightning Chain Lube (and Buck's rebranded version of it) as well as Dupont's Teflon Chain lube exclusively for a number of years with no stains. For one thing, the liquid carrier evaporates almost immediately leaving only a small amount of dry lube in place. The liquid carrier is gone before you finish wiping off the excess and put the knife back in your pocket. The dry lube stays in place inside the knife and even if some of it did get out, it's white/colorless and doesn't stain. Since it's designed to be dry it works fine when dry and so drying out doesn't hurt it. Since it's a solid after the carrier evaporates, it can't get gummy. Since it's a solid, it stays in place even over very long periods and doesn't have to be refreshed on a regular basis.

It works better than any of the conventional lubricants (oils & greases) I have tried. I can't tell you how many that is, but I can tell you that I have 20-30 different types on hand right now and have given away or thrown away others after trying them.

In my experience, it's not just a little better than conventional lubricants, it is, by far, the best option for lubricating knives. The only downside to it is that applying it can be a little bit messy since the liquid carrier is very thin. It runs everywhere when you apply it--which is good since it penetrates everywhere you want the lube to go but it also means that you will want to wipe things down after application to remove most of the dry lube residue from external surfaces. Not a big deal, especially since you probably won't have to reapply it for many months. In fact, you really don't need to reapply it unless you have to aggressively clean your knife--like dunking it in solvent or washing it with a water/detergent mix.
 
If you ever use it to cut food when you''re out, food grade mineral oil might not be a bad choice.
Ballistol. I often use my knives to cut food. Ballistol is the safest oil I’ve found and, once the carrier evaporates, pretty much odorless.
I hadn’t really considered safety if I was using my knives to cut up food. That’s a good point.

I typically don’t, except for my beater knives I keep around to open letters and peel oranges and such. But it doesn’t mean I wouldn’t use them for a little more involved food prep in a pinch.
 
I've been using White Lightning Chain Lube (and Buck's rebranded version of it) as well as Dupont's Teflon Chain lube exclusively for a number of years with no stains. For one thing, the liquid carrier evaporates almost immediately leaving only a small amount of dry lube in place. The liquid carrier is gone before you finish wiping off the excess and put the knife back in your pocket. The dry lube stays in place inside the knife and even if some of it did get out, it's white/colorless and doesn't stain. Since it's designed to be dry it works fine when dry and so drying out doesn't hurt it. Since it's a solid after the carrier evaporates, it can't get gummy. Since it's a solid, it stays in place even over very long periods and doesn't have to be refreshed on a regular basis.

It works better than any of the conventional lubricants (oils & greases) I have tried. I can't tell you how many that is, but I can tell you that I have 20-30 different types on hand right now and have given away or thrown away others after trying them.

In my experience, it's not just a little better than conventional lubricants, it is, by far, the best option for lubricating knives. The only downside to it is that applying it can be a little bit messy since the liquid carrier is very thin. It runs everywhere when you apply it--which is good since it penetrates everywhere you want the lube to go but it also means that you will want to wipe things down after application to remove most of the dry lube residue from external surfaces. Not a big deal, especially since you probably won't have to reapply it for many months. In fact, you really don't need to reapply it unless you have to aggressively clean your knife--like dunking it in solvent or washing it with a water/detergent mix.
I've used White Lightning for years on my bike chains. Good stuff. You make a convincing argument for knife use.
 
I have recently started buying a little bit nicer knives than I was formerly accustomed. I now am wondering about lubricating the pivots on some flippers. I thought originally I would just drop a little lubricating gun oil in, but then I considered how little I knew about quality knives a few months ago, and how much I'm likely still very ignorant about. So I thought I'd ask.

What products have a good service record for not ruining finishes, not drying up and getting sticky if the knife is left idle for awhile, and for good performance overall?
I use Al Cass FAST Valve, Slide & Key Oil. It's clear as water, odorless and light. Available via Internet, since there are few band instrument stores anymore.
 
Another that I use quite a little bit.

Sure, it's stinky. I know it's expensive.

But at least.... it's quite dirty.:evil:

Works really, really well. Just make sure to rid the knife of excess if it's to be pocket carried.;)

Todd.
IMG_1337.JPG
 
I've been using White Lightning Chain Lube (and Buck's rebranded version of it) as well as Dupont's Teflon Chain lube exclusively for a number of years with no stains.

I am curious about how its wax-based lubricant works in cold weather. I see you are in what I think of as a warm area and I would like something that is okay in the around-zero regions. I actually ordered some and it just occurred to me that maybe it would be an issue. Thought I'd check before I tried it out.
 
It's never been an issue. Then again, I've never put a knife in the freezer or left it lying outside in the cold to see if the blade gets hard to fold/unfold. Since I carry my knife in a pocket, it never really gets especially cold.

My gut feel is that since the wax is already solid at room temperature, it can't get "more solid" at colder temperatures and cause problems.
 
I don’t even know if they still sell it, but I use slip 2000 EWL. Synthetic non toxic lube that works well in guns too.

whether in a restaurant or in the woods, using my knife to cut food isn’t unusual and I’d prefer not to poison myself.
 
Mobil 1 loosened up the new Inkosi a lot. It was tight as all get out in both opening and closing even after messing with it for two days and playing around with pivot tension. It's good to go now though with pivot loosened just a skosh from too tight.
 
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