I'm on a wheel gun kick...

Welcome to the addiction! I’ve been a lifelong auto loader guy but gave them all up for the revolver. They’re more fun ( to me)

gregp74

I also have small hands so I think something along the lines of a S&W K frame (Model 10 or Model 15), would work very well for you. Now a S&W L frame was designed for the .357 cartridge so the frame itself is a little more substantial than the K frame. The great thing about this is that it still uses a K frame size grip so that might be another way to go. Ruger makes the GP100 which is another well built .357 as is Colt's new King Cobra line-up.

I've been on a wheelgun kick for decades.....welcome, misery loves company!

More expensive to polish and finish a blued gun.

gregp74

Me too especially with revolvers!

To me, a 4" K frame is kind of the center of the DA revolver world. If I didn't own a double action revolver, my first purchase would be a Model 19.

If you like projects, J&G Sales has a bunch of S&W Model 10's without barrels for $150 bucks.

3in Gp100, compact grips, bobbed hammer.
Hefty enough that 38's will have mild recoil, and full house 357's are still controllable.
The compact grips will help immensely with smaller hands, and help with CC if you choose.
I have 9 357's and this is one of my favorites.

gregp74 said:

I had been thinking a 3" but I am probably better off with 4. That would at least be the same as a Glock 19. Not that that's really a comparison lol

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I personally prefer the look of the 4" barrel, and shoot them a bit better too. But it's all about personal preference, along with the purpose of the gun.

gregp74 said:

When I went to pick up my model 63 last week they had a big sale on used guns so I was looking around and found a used model 10. I really didn't know anything about it other than it had holster wear but seemed in decent mechanical shape from what I could tell. After a little research here and a call to S&W I found out it was made in 1948! I will probably just keep that one on the shelf. Kind of neat to have but not shoot.

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Those actually are great, reliable shooters, with no real collector value, if that's your concern. Used with standard loads and lead (not jacketed) bullets you should get at least a lifetime's service out of it.

357 Terms said:

3in Gp100, compact grips, bobbed hammer.
Hefty enough that 38's will have mild recoil, and full house 357's are still controllable.
The compact grips will help immensely with smaller hands, and help with CC if you choose.
I have 9 357's and this is one of my favorites.



View attachment 898085

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that’s about as pretty as a rhubarb pie!

if you reload, the coolest thing is just popping the empty cases out of the cylinders and neatly into the box they came out of free of dirt or dings from hitting the ground.

gregp74 said:

I’ve been eyeballing that Model 19 classic. Anyone have experience with those?

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You could do a lot worse than a Model 19. A k frame that's 357 capable. Some will say the Classic doesn't compare with the older ones but new is good if you have an issue. Four inch barrels can be good for many purposes but don't carry quite as easily. If 38 spl is enough for you, model 10s and model 64s can be had for @ $300. Dan Wesson revolvers have the deep blue you like, available in 357 and can be had for @$500 if you look around. If you can't decide on a barrel length the DWs barrel can be changed in a couple minutes to the length of your choice. I found this one for less than $500. You're going to end up with at least a few revolvers, I predict. Too many choices, but that's a good thing.

gregp74 said:

........a used model 10. I really didn't know anything about it other than it had holster wear but seemed in decent mechanical shape from what I could tell. After a little research here and a call to S&W I found out it was made in 1948! I will probably just keep that one on the shelf. Kind of neat to have but not shoot.

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Howdy

I too am on a Wheel Gun kick, have been for about 45 years.

If it was made in 1948 it is not a Model 10. It is a 38 Military and Police, the predecessor to the Model 10. S&W did not start giving model numbers to their revolvers until 1957. Previously, what would become the Model 10 was the 38 Military and Police. I'm surprised S&W did not correct you about that. Common mistake, I have seen lots of 38 M&Ps mislabeled as Model 10s in gun shops.

Let me guess, you are a little bit on the young side. Why else would you not want to shoot a revolver made in 1948?

The 38 M&P at the top of this photo was made in 1939. I have no problem shooting it. Of course I do know a little bit about revolvers and what to check before shooting them. But these revolvers were workhorses, and if they received reasonable care they would shoot for a lifetime, or two. The Model 10 at the bottom of the photo was made in 1964. Best deal I ever got on a S&W revolver. $125 out the door. Of course that was about 20 years ago, prices may have gone up a bit since then.





I have lots of S&W revolvers, some of them lots older than 1948. LOTS older. And I do shoot them.

gregp74 said:

I’ve been eyeballing that Model 19 classic. Anyone have experience with those?

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Here is my Model 19-3 that I bought brand-spanky new in 1975 for $125. I still have the box and all the goodies. I have been shooting it for 45 years without any problems.






Here is a better view of it.






The Model 19 was originally called the 357 Combat Magnum, before the name change to Model 19 in 1957. Built at the suggestion of long time shooter Bill Jordan, it was the first time the 357 Magnum cartridge had been chambered in a revolver smaller then the big N frame The 357 Magnum, later known as the Model 27. The big N frame gun was a bit heavy for an officer to carry all day. Jordan suggested S&W build a 357 Magnum revolver on the smaller K frame. It would be lighter weight and easy to carry all day. The only problem with the K frame S&Ws was the relief cut at the bottom of the forcing cone. The cut was there to clear the gas ring on the cylinder. This cut was a 'feature' on every K frame revolver S&W built going back to 1905. It did not present a problem with a standard 38 Special cartridge, but hi velocity light bullets could cause the forcing cone to split at the narrowest spot.

You can see how the forcing cone is slightly thinner at the bottom in this view of my Model 19-3.





Anyway, I'm pretty sure S&W has re-engineered the forcing cone on the current Model 19 they are making now.




If I was you, I would look for a fixed sight Model 10, or an adjustable sight Model 15. This is actually a 38 Combat Masterpiece, the forerunner of the Model 15. It left the factory in 1953.






Or a Model 14-3 like this one from 1974. I stumbled across it at a local shop a few years ago and could not believe the $550 price tag. When they agreed to $500 I hurt myself whipping my checkbook out.

gregp74 said:

Last fall one of the guns I sold to fund another purchase was a nice Ruger SP101 in 22lr. I figured I had plenty of autoloaders and didn't need it. I regretted it pretty quickly. There's something to be said for the simplicity of being able to just drop some rounds in and shoot. No need for magazines or worrying about if they'll cycle right or anything.

It was bothering me so last week I picked up an S&W 63 (and somehow a 70+ year old 38 ended up coming home with me as well.)

It's had me thinking about revolvers a lot this last week and I'm kind of liking the idea of a (modern) 38 or 357. I probably won't shoot it much and when I do it'll be mostly 38s, but as I learned in the last ammo shortage it's nice to have more than one caliber available. And the simplicity. Just the gun, no mags or anything. So I'm looking for a gun, and I could use some suggestions.

I have fairly small hands so I don't want giant grips and not too much trigger reach. As much as I like my little J frame 22, I think something bigger with a bit more mass is more appropriate for a 38/357. Probably a medium size steel frame. I don't want the recoil to beat me up too bad when I shoot it but I also don't want it ridiculously big. Probably a 3-4" barrel.

I saw a used S&W Model 60 pro series on my favorite shop's website yesterday and went to look at it. I was all excited about what it would cost me with their current sale. Turns out that one was already sold, and I looked at a new one and it wasn't what I wanted. At 22oz it was too lightweight. I'm thinking I want something at least 30-32oz, similar to my Beretta.

I'll sit back now and wait for the 10000000 questions and suggestions!

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The model 60 pro is nice but you probably chose correctly in not getting one. The recoil is quite stout with magnums. The L frame S&W revolvers have the same grip size as the K frames. I would suggest a 686 or 586 if you prefer blued. Here are my 3 and 4 inch 686s

gregp74 said:

I'm on a wheel gun kick...

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Welcome to the club.

It's a big one and there's lots of room for another enthusiast

Revolvers are some of my favorites to shoot. DA, SA, different frame sizes, and all enjoyable for different reasons.

gregp74 said:

Exactly! When I think of revolvers I picture my grandpa's old S&W 38 special. I don't remember much about it, other than it being blue with wood grips and smelling like oil. I'm tempted to just go that route for old times sake but I think I'm better off with something that can also handle 38s. I've got a lever gun that shoots them so it'd be good to be able to share in a pinch.

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I have S&W revolvers from 1916, 1917, 1920, 1923, and 1949, just to mention the pre-1950 ones. I shoot them all the time. An unfired gun is an unhappy gun, and you don't want that. You'll start having bad dreams and gophers will infest your yard. Take that old beauty out and let it show you what it can do. Then it will be happy. Happy is what you want. Heck, I even shoot my 1895 one sometimes, despite having to go to the trouble of making black powder cartridges for it.