.410 bore 3 inch shell

Surely MEC does.
Note that the maximum load for .410 in regulation NSSA Skeet is 1/2 oz. Most shooters use 2 1/2" shells, but no reason not to use 3" hulls if you can get a suitable wad. Look here:
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/MG410-410-wad-250_bag/productinfo/072MG410/

And that is all I know about it, I was a Trap shooter.

All 410 skeet shells are 2 1/2".

MEC gives you a choice of buying one all ready set up for either 2 1/2" or 3" shells. My MEC 600 Jr is set up for 3" shells since that is what I shoot for hunting. If I were to load skeet loads, it would be 2 1/2" only (for competition).
If all you are doing is skeet shooting, then get the MEC press that is setup for loading 2 1/2" shells.

I have loaded a lot of 2.5 inch 410 on a MEC 600 jr. I beleive it can be converted to 3-inch shells but have never done the conversion. As other have pointed out you can buy a 600jr already setup for 3-inch. My favorite 410 only has a 2.5-inch chamber. To the end I though skeet utilized the 2.5 inch 410 at least in formal competition.

I also have a beat up, missing parts, given to me free, MEC 650N that need a lot of love before it will be reloading ammo on it. 410 was always a favorite of mine.

I wouldn't even mess with a 1/2oz load in a 3" shell. I load 11/16oz loads in my 3" shells.

Before I forget:

Some safety information incase you have not reloaded any shot shells before. Stick with the hull, primer and powder charge listed by powder manufacturers. Do not mix and match/substitute components. I happen to like using Hodgdon H110 powder, Claybuster wads and Winchester 209 primers. The reason for following what the powder manufacturers say is that Everyone seems to make their hulls differently and a charge for one brand might be too much for another brand (depending how the base is shaped/formed)

flexible said:

I guess my next question would be which MEC should I get? I use a Dillon 550C for pistol and a Redding T7 for rifle. So I'm used to a progressive loader. I figure i'll be shooting about 200 rounds of .410 a week.
any recommendations?
thanks
flexible

Click to expand...

Have you ever reloaded any shot shells before? How comfortable would you be using a progressive loader?

The 600 Jr is and excellent single stage to start new reloaders on. I still use my 600 Jr bought new in 96. The Sizemaster is also a single stage with a few bells .
If you are wanting a progressive press, I would look at the 650N. The 8567 and 9000 progressive presses are for guys that shoot a lot of rounds per week.

I would recommend either the 600 Jr or 650N based on your needs.

flexible said:

Hi everyone, flexible here. This question is probably being driven by absolute boredom (stuck in the house because of COVID19).
I took delivery of my first set of .410 barrels for my Blaser F3 two days before all the NJ ranges were shut down. I managed to order 3 cases of .410 AA #9 target ammo before the supplies ran out.
Now i'm starting to plan reloading to save some money when everything opens.
Does any manufacturer make a reloader for 3 in shells?
Does it make sense to look for a 3 in capable reloader or just get a MEC - BTW there is an almost 2 month backorder on most MEC's.
I will be shooting only skeet with the .410
thanks
flexible

Click to expand...

Is the MEC not a reloader?
Mine are, though 12 and 20 ga.
Unless you are attempting to compete with the NSSA top shooters, who are given their shells by sponsors, there's no need to get a Spolar Gold , or Hornady 366. Find a dealer that has a .410 MEC 600 Jr. V in stock. Buying straight from MEC is more expensive anyway. I only buy the parts I can't find for my 1972-era Jr. from them when I can't find them elsewhere.
All maunfacturers require re-setting the machine up when changing gauges, and it's usually more hassle than it's worth. Just buy a good progressive for 12 ga., and a MEC 600 Jr. V for .410. Watch out for shot bridging in the drop tube in .410.

12Bravo20 said:

I wouldn't even mess with a 1/2oz load in a 3" shell. I load 11/16oz loads in my 3" shells.

Before I forget:

Some safety information incase you have not reloaded any shot shells before. Stick with the hull, primer and powder charge listed by powder manufacturers. Do not mix and match/substitute components. I happen to like using Hodgdon H110 powder, Claybuster wads and Winchester 209 primers. The reason for following what the powder manufacturers say is that Everyone seems to make their hulls differently and a charge for one brand might be too much for another brand (depending how the base is shaped/formed)

Click to expand...

Indeed even within brands, such as WInchester AA's. There are two types; AA-CF (compression formed) made before 2000, and AA-HS made after. You can tell an HS hull by looking into it-you will see a separate cup at the base.

flexible said:

Hi everyone, flexible here. This question is probably being driven by absolute boredom (stuck in the house because of COVID19).
I took delivery of my first set of .410 barrels for my Blaser F3 two days before all the NJ ranges were shut down. I managed to order 3 cases of .410 AA #9 target ammo before the supplies ran out.
Now i'm starting to plan reloading to save some money when everything opens.
Does any manufacturer make a reloader for 3 in shells?
Does it make sense to look for a 3 in capable reloader or just get a MEC - BTW there is an almost 2 month backorder on most MEC's.
I will be shooting only skeet with the .410
thanks
flexible

Click to expand...

First skeet does not allow 3" shells;
secondly, MEC makes a kit to turn your standard 2.5" 410 loader into a 3" one.

flexible said:

never reloaded shotshells before but I use progressive loaders for pistol & rifle. Might make sense to get a single stage (cheaper) to start with. thanks

Click to expand...

With that, I definitely recommend the 600 Jr and get it all ready setup for 2 1/2" shells since you are shooting skeet. Also make sure to save your AA hulls. 410 Hulls are the hardest to find. I prefer Hodgdon H110, Claybuster wads and Winchester 209 primers. You can figure on reloading around 450-470 shells per pound of powder.

And Entropy made a good point (that I spaced on) about watching for the shot bridging in the drop tube. As long as you stay with 7 1/2 or smaller shot, the less it will bridge. If you are loading for skeet then you probably want to stay with 9 shot anyway. A 25 pound of shout will last a very long time reloading 410 shells.

Once you get set up and have any questions, ask away and we will help.

At .5oz/round, you will get 800 rounds from a bag of shot. I would avoid a progressive in .410 for a new person; even a lot of experienced loaders have issues due to the narrow hull opening with wads getting cocked, shot bridging, etc. Better to take your time with a Jr.; I can load 4-6 boxes an hour on my Jr.s, about half what I did on my 9000, or do on my grabber

Check out the local pawn shops. I found a MEC 600 JR in one with lots of extras. They wanted $80, they accepted $50.

I have a progressive 12 ga. Ponsness Warren reloader. They are expensive but once you start reloading on one it's too hard to stop. Drink lots of coffee since it will keep you up all night.

flexible said:

* Powder recommendation please. I have Unique, Bullseye & Blue Dot I use for pistol.

Click to expand...

None of those. Go to Hodgdon and Alliant sites and make a list of suitable powders. Or listen to established .410ers.

Jim Watson said:

None of those. Go to Hodgdon and Alliant sites and make a list of suitable powders. Or listen to established .410ers.

Click to expand...

Jim gave good advice.

Always use a powder that is meant for reloading 410 shells, do not substitute!

You will have good experience using powders from Hodgdon. Hodgdon H110 and Winchester 296 (same powder) and Hodgdon Lil Gun are excellent powders that are designed for the 410. There is also the Alliant 410 powder. I haven't used the Alliant powder so can't comment. I have used all three of the Hodgdon powders with good results.

I personally like using Hodgdon H110 since it does well in 357 magnum and 300 blackout loads.

flexible said:

* MEC 600 Jr.

Click to expand...

Yes.

flexible said:

* I seem to recall the adjustable charge bar has some issues - best to stick with the bushings?

Click to expand...

Yes, especially for a beginner.

flexible said:

* I have 3 cases of Win AA .410 in #9 shot, I will save the hulls

Click to expand...

You'd be a fool not to, they're like gold to a skeet shooting reloader.

flexible said:

* Clay buster wads?

Click to expand...

I find them more likely to leave plastic in a barrel, but some like them. I prefer Winchester AA wads.

flexible said:

* Powder recommendation please. I have Unique, Bullseye & Blue Dot I use for pistol.

Click to expand...

The first two work well for 12 & 20 clays loads, NOT .410! Stick to Alliant 410 or 300-MP, or Hogdon W296, H110 or Lil' Gun. IMR4227 can be used for .410.

flexible said:

* Win 209 primers

Click to expand...

My favorite.

flexible said:

* Lawrence shot - #9?

Click to expand...

Good stuff.

I'm one that has not had problems with the Claybuster wads in my Mossbergs or Turkish O/U. Claybusters and Winchester wads are the most popular and interchangeable.

I have to agree with the adjustable charge bar not being very good. I'm pretty sure that it was discontinued. A note on the powder bushing, they go by volume not weight. So find one that will drop the closest to what the manuals say without going over.

I haven't had problems with Claybusters either, but I only tried one bag. I just wanted to make him aware.
There is a an adjustable bar still made, but not by MEC. They are a love/hate kind of thing. I've never used one, so I have no opinion either way.

12Bravo20 said:

A note on the powder bushing, they go by volume not weight. So find one that will drop the closest to what the manuals say without going over.

Click to expand...

That and weigh your charges,(I do 10 drops and average them) with every change in powders or lot numbers of the same powder.

Absolutely weigh your charges. I do that no matter what I’m reloading. My MEC 600 is pretty consistent with H110, I get + or - 0.1 grain as long as I’m consistent on how I slide the charge bar.

One thing about the Cheddite hulls, They do not use a standard size primer and you are better off using Cheddite primers.

I'd stay away from the Eurotrash hulls myself. Get the stuff for loading AA-HS hulls, and you'll be ready to reload those AA's you already have. This thing won't last forever, you'll be out shooting soon.