33 cent upgrade for Dillon 550 Series

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dcloco

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Friend sent a youtube video to install a flat roller bearing between two steel washers, for $34.95. He indicated I should upgrade.

Because I am frugal (cheap, if you wish), believe a 33 cent solution from ACE Hardware fixes the problem nicely.

If you hate spilling powder when advancing the shell plate on your 550 series, this is a simple and quite inexpensive upgrade.

After removing star and center bolt, debur the center of the star with a 1/2" drill bit. SLOW and steady. Cordless drill may be used as well. Clean and remove any remnants.

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Remove burrs and square up the shoulder of the shell plate bolt. Again, slow and steady. I used a triangular shaped file, did not want to disturb the shank of the bolt.
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Purchased hard plastic washers (1/2" center) from ACE hardware for 33 cents each. Remove burrs by gently running across a fine file while rotating washer after every pass. Complete for both sides of the washer.
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Clean pot metal shell plate star, plastic washer, and shell plate bolt. Apply SMALL amount of lubricant to both sides of plastic washer. STOS from Ponsness Warren is a superb 100% synthetic firearm lube. A small touch is all that is needed. STOS is SLIPPPPPPERY!!!
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Reinstall components in your favorite BLUE and get to loading! Check clearance of the bolt head. All of mine have ample clearance.
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I’m lost on this one. I’ve lost track of how many rounds loaded on my 550 since buying it in 1982, I wore it out Dillon rebuilt it it 2015. No mods, other than Dillons own. Just keeps turning out Ammo with every pull of the handle.

Well, because, now my 550's run a little bit better. Imagine your 1982 vintage metallurgy is a little better than what is on the benches now.

No different than the primer bar. A little help is needed on some of these as well.
 
I've heard complaints of spilled powder, as the plate is indexed to the next station. I've not had the powder spill out, but it is a bit clunky sometimes advancing the shell plate. I've noticed that the shell plate meets the most resistance at station 4, when the finished round is being squeezed against the wire gate that forces the finished round out of the press and into the hopper. This friction of the finished round pushing against the gate causes the hiccup in the otherwise smooth rotation of the shell plate. Your method is effective and inexpensive it seems, but I wonder if there is another simple solution to improving that wire gate, Part number 13925 in the attached schematic.
P.S.-I love my 550b
 

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Thank you for the pictures and the advice. I decided to conduct a search for the needle bearing kit you mentioned and found this old thread:

Turbo Bearing for 550b

in post nine, @Sport45 recommended these parts:

Mc Master Carr:

1 Each - Thrust Bearing for 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 15/16" OD - p/n 5909K31 $2.76ea

2 Each - .032" Thick Washer For 1/2" Shaft Diameter Steel Needle-Roller Thrust Bearing - p/n 5909K44 $0.92ea

Grainger Supply:

1 Each - Thrust Bearing Assembly for 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 15/16" OD - p/n 4XFN2 $3.07ea

2 Each - .030" Thick Washer For 1/2" Shaft Diameter Steel Needle-Roller Thrust Bearing - p/n 4XFP9 $0.97ea

I think these are the same parts being sold by the Chinese on ebay.

TC815+2TRA Needle Roller Thrust Bearings with Washers 1/2"x15/16"x5/64" 3pcs
 
Well, because, now my 550's run a little bit better. Imagine your 1982 vintage metallurgy is a little better than what is on the benches now.

No different than the primer bar. A little help is needed on some of these as well.

After I posted that I realized it might read a bit pretentious, after all the world been trying to build a better mouse trap for centuries.
It is true however I’ve never had to modify mine in any way .

Not modify but gave up on the automatic primer bar within the first year. I’ve gotten into the habit of operating the primer slide by my left hand. It’s an automatic action, handle down slide out. I’ve heard there’s a better set up on that but haven’t tried it. The small and larger primer slide on mine looks as if it was designed to be pulled by hand.
 
So in this case does the shell plate still “detent” into position? I’m ignorant about dillons... is the spillage happening as it clicks into place? How does this mod solve that?
 
I tried a nylon washer under the center bolt and it did turn easier. However, the case disengagement on the up-stroke got fairly "mushy" too.
 
So in this case does the shell plate still “detent” into position? I’m ignorant about dillons... is the spillage happening as it clicks into place? How does this mod solve that?

Gives the pot metal star wheel and center bolt, different surface type to work against. If the burrs are removed from the underside of the bolt, this provides a relatively flat surface as well.
 
I put a thrust bearing on my 650's, they are as smooth as warm butter.



Never messed with the 550 as my finger controls the indexing on them.
 
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